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Turbo - what's a better buy?

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dsm-onster

DSM Wiseman
8,592
124
Jul 11, 2004
Bloxom, Virginia
Gamble97 said:
basically why I want to rev to 9k safely is because if i miss a gear or accidently some shit happens and it over revs I dont want to have to worry about it too much.
I'm still new to the turbo thing and I don't which would be my best choice. A friend of mine has a 20g on his evo that he is thinking about selling.
Also i have dsm link on order. I have a full 3" exhaust, and arp head studs, fp1 intake and fp2 exhaust cam. I was acutally looking for a a supra side mount intercooler for the time being, until the motor is done.

But you said you wanted a shep tranny to shift to 9K for fun. you didn't say anything about building for an accidental overrev.:confused: No biggie. IMHO, a shep or tre tranny becomes more and more a neccesity as you start progressing from the 350 whp point. This just my opinion. but being that so many of us have dropped perfectly good trannies at this hp level, then I don't think the shep tranny is a bad buy. However, There are quite a few who havenot had a problem with the tranny. And, if you do junk one, then another JY stocker is just a couple hundred dollars away...

There's nothing wrong with overbuilding. But Andy is right. It seams that a 20g is your best choice. Or for a little more potential a 50trim. Stick w/ his list. I say get the shep tranny when and if you pop your stocker.
 
I have a choice right now between 2 turbos.
first one is
Mitsubishi BIG 16G turbo ported to 7 cm hole and clipped
has 15k miles

$400

or a brand new
evo china gts turbo (i forgot exactly what it was, sorry i'm a n00b)
$250


I'm having my motor built and they list includes

xact light flywheel
act 2100 clutch
ross 8:5.1 pistons
eagle rods
1mm bigger valves
crower springs/retainers
fp cams
new lifters
walbro 190
intake
uicp
turbo back

The car is a AWD and i'm looking for the best performance, shooting for 350ish whp
also looking for a shep tranny so i can rev to 9k just for fun. Would also like a turbo that will put out through my powerband.
 
I don't want to sound like an ass but revving to 9K is stupid on that turbo and that power. You want to rev for fun :nono: . Both turbos run out of steam before 7K, usually people shift at 6.5K or earlier because those turbos just don't hold up that well in the upper RPM's.
 
Well that's what i'm asking. I am looking for a turbo that will put out until 8k or so, i want the boost to drop off. Should I look for something like a 50 trim?
 
Buy your shep tranny and give it to me. You don't need it.

--You dont need ross pistons
--You dont need eagle rods
--You don't need 1mm oversized valves
--you don't need crower springs/retainers
--you don't need new lifters (unless you've got lifter tap that is too annoying to let go or causing phantom knock)

. . . If you're going to pick up either turbo and be satisfied with them. Don't waste your money. Get a set of FP1s and the other mods will be enough. Unless you want more. If you do, then you're looking at the wrong 2 turbos.

What are your horsepower goals?
 
Gamble97 said:
Well that's what i'm asking. I am looking for a turbo that will put out until 8k or so, i want the boost to drop off. Should I look for something like a 50 trim?

More like a 60-1 or a gt40R or a Holset. You'll need more than a meager 190 lph fuel pump. An uicp? no you'll need a HUGE FMIC or water injection for a turbo that will hold boost to 8000rpms with a cam upgrade.

What is your horsepower goal?
 
those are the first 2 turbos that caught my eye and i'm trying to figure out what will fit what i'm looking for.
 
Explain to me why you would build a motor with some of the best parts you can get for a motor, and then skimp on the turbo? That makes no sense to me. If your getting a built motor, get a "built" turbo.
 
I agree with dsm-onster. You don't need that kind of build for 350whp. If you decide to stay with the FP2's, you'll find that this is almost too much cam for the 16G. Boost will bleed down at higher RPM. However, Staying on a stock head, FP2's and a 20G with 750cc injectors will easily get you where you need to be. For insurance, you can add a set of ARP head studs and a new gasket, but other than that, you don't need to get into the motor. Another option on the same setup would be a 50trim variant since these are excellent on pump gas. If I was building your setup, I would choose the following:

TD06 20G
Full 3" Exhaust
750cc Injectors
EPROM ECU with custom A/F and timing maps or DSMLink
FMIC
Forge BOV
2.5" Short Route Piping
ACT 2100/Chromoly Flywheel
FP2's or Comp 200's
ARP Headstuds
Stock Mitsu Head Gasket
Walbro 255
Aeromotive AFPR

Save the money you'd spend on the transmission and motor build and put it into a correct tuning solution for the motor. Also, forget about revving to 9K for fun. That's nothing more than a waste of time. As a matter of fact, since you don't need a revised valve spring/lifter setup to meet your goals, there's no need to rev past 7500 with a 7800 rev limiter.

It's your money, but I'd like to see you spend it on the parts that will make the most difference.

Andy
 
andymoraitis said:
I agree with dsm-onster. You don't need that kind of build for 350whp. If you decide to stay with the FP2's, you'll find that this is almost too much cam for the 16G. Boost will bleed down at higher RPM. However, Staying on a stock head, FP2's and a 20G with 750cc injectors will easily get you where you need to be. For insurance, you can add a set of ARP head studs and a new gasket, but other than that, you don't need to get into the motor. Another option on the same setup would be a 50trim variant since these are excellent on pump gas. If I was building your setup, I would choose the following:

TD06 20G
Full 3" Exhaust
750cc Injectors
EPROM ECU with custom A/F and timing maps or DSMLink
FMIC
Forge BOV
2.5" Short Route Piping
ACT 2100/Chromoly Flywheel
FP2's or Comp 200's
ARP Headstuds
Stock Mitsu Head Gasket
Walbro 255
Aeromotive AFPR

Save the money you'd spend on the transmission and motor build and put it into a correct tuning solution for the motor. Also, forget about revving to 9K for fun. That's nothing more than a waste of time. As a matter of fact, since you don't need a revised valve spring/lifter setup to meet your goals, there's no need to rev past 7500 with a 7800 rev limiter.

It's your money, but I'd like to see you spend it on the parts that will make the most difference.

Andy

basically why I want to rev to 9k safely is because if i miss a gear or accidently some shit happens and it over revs I dont want to have to worry about it too much.
I'm still new to the turbo thing and I don't which would be my best choice. A friend of mine has a 20g on his evo that he is thinking about selling.
Also i have dsm link on order. I have a full 3" exhaust, and arp head studs, fp1 intake and fp2 exhaust cam. I was acutally looking for a a supra side mount intercooler for the time being, until the motor is done.
 
juts out of curiosity what will you be doing with this car? Is it a dd that will see rare track time or is this more of a weekend warrior? To be honest you have the supporting mods if you get a fmic to run a 3065 sized turbo and make closer to 600hp especialy if you get the link and enough fuel too. Then you will pull to tomorrow. I think everyone in this thread is going the wrong way. The guy already has the parts no point tellin how he should have spent the money, we should be shwoin him the potentials of his setup given the right turbo:thumb:
 
Dont worrie about over reving a little, the stock head is good up to 8000 rpm's more than you will ever need. Also sometimes hitting 9000 or higher isnt good for it but most likely it wont cause much damage unless you always mess up or leave it up in the 9000rpm range for awhile
 
To the original poster check out these turbos. I put the average spool up time on a 2.0l give or take so you could see, because if you don't want a laggy turbo setup that is a very important thing to know.

PTE 50 trim/sbr50/Bullseye V-trim/FP Green - good for about 500hp max and full boost around 4k

FP red/ SBR gt13/ or other 60-1 varrient - good for about 550-600hp depending on the turbo and exhaust side and full boost close to 4300

SCM61/SBR GT14:D /FP 3065/ Holset/ AGPrs65 - good for about 600 maybe a little more max hp full boost around 4500 maybe a tad slower.

ANything bigger and it won't make for a very fun street car but you can look into gt42's and t70's and turbos like that if you don't care or don't plan on driving your car on the street much. The numbers and spools are mostly with either the mitsubishi housings or small t3/t4 housings. The bigger the exhaust side is the slower spool is but th emore you will flow up top keep that in mind.:thumb:
 
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