Puscifer
15+ Year Contributor
- 119
- 0
- Apr 29, 2007
-
Amelia Island,
Florida
Hey guys. Sorry if this multisourced question has been answered to start off with. I feel bad for asking questions most of the time because I believe they're answered somewhere and after an hour of looking.. I quit. Situation
I recently blew my HG, was a crappy one. the supporting ring on the #4 cyl on the HG just.. fell off onto the top of the piston.
Pulled the head, bought 272 i/e cams, valves, seals, guides, springs, retainers (all crower) lifters, ARP studs (torqued to 90lbs in the proper direction in the proper sequence), and the famous Cometic HG. Dropped it off at the shop, everything installed fine, no damage to the head or block surface, car was cold when it blew thank god.
In the process of pulling the head, I removed my exhaust system and the other various things to make the removal / installation easy. I got the head back on there fine, lifters pumped up good, no ticks, motor holds stronger than ever.
Problem I'm having is before hand at idle I could rev the car up and hear the BOV dump back into the intake and could see my boost gauge jump accordingly, now I can't. I haven't been able to put the car on the ground yet (waiting for a new water pipe because I noticed my old one has a small leak at the distribution block but using the old one for now because the leak is very minor)
I've read that you're not supposed to get boost unless there's an actual load on the motor, I determined that being the car on the ground, going through gears. All my vacuum lines seem to be hooked up correctly, no shaft play, wheels spin in the turbo. I did however block off my EGR valve (sorry Defiant, less to stare at) put some copper based hi-temp silicone to seal with. I completed a boost leak test, came back fine, just leaked at the MBC a little. Um. Compression test read 182-185 on cyls 1-3 and 179 on 4. Haven't done a leak down test but I don't really think that's necessary with those numbers.
Only thing I have questionable at the moment is my sanity. Would the oil feed/return lines have a proper in and out or are they like the coolant lines? (which to my understanding doesn't really matter) Exhaust tone is a little weaker than before which was unexpected because I changed out my O2 housing and went from a 2.25 DP to a full 2.5 - 3.0 and eliminate the CAT. Any other time I've done that .. it gets much louder.
Well, Sorry for such a large post everyone but I'm the kind that likes detail and I really appreciate anyone who actually read all this to give me a hand. All suggestions are open as I'm on vacation and I've been running in and out of my house so much I think i have a rut in the floor. Good day and happy new years.
I recently blew my HG, was a crappy one. the supporting ring on the #4 cyl on the HG just.. fell off onto the top of the piston.
Pulled the head, bought 272 i/e cams, valves, seals, guides, springs, retainers (all crower) lifters, ARP studs (torqued to 90lbs in the proper direction in the proper sequence), and the famous Cometic HG. Dropped it off at the shop, everything installed fine, no damage to the head or block surface, car was cold when it blew thank god.
In the process of pulling the head, I removed my exhaust system and the other various things to make the removal / installation easy. I got the head back on there fine, lifters pumped up good, no ticks, motor holds stronger than ever.
Problem I'm having is before hand at idle I could rev the car up and hear the BOV dump back into the intake and could see my boost gauge jump accordingly, now I can't. I haven't been able to put the car on the ground yet (waiting for a new water pipe because I noticed my old one has a small leak at the distribution block but using the old one for now because the leak is very minor)
I've read that you're not supposed to get boost unless there's an actual load on the motor, I determined that being the car on the ground, going through gears. All my vacuum lines seem to be hooked up correctly, no shaft play, wheels spin in the turbo. I did however block off my EGR valve (sorry Defiant, less to stare at) put some copper based hi-temp silicone to seal with. I completed a boost leak test, came back fine, just leaked at the MBC a little. Um. Compression test read 182-185 on cyls 1-3 and 179 on 4. Haven't done a leak down test but I don't really think that's necessary with those numbers.
Only thing I have questionable at the moment is my sanity. Would the oil feed/return lines have a proper in and out or are they like the coolant lines? (which to my understanding doesn't really matter) Exhaust tone is a little weaker than before which was unexpected because I changed out my O2 housing and went from a 2.25 DP to a full 2.5 - 3.0 and eliminate the CAT. Any other time I've done that .. it gets much louder.
Well, Sorry for such a large post everyone but I'm the kind that likes detail and I really appreciate anyone who actually read all this to give me a hand. All suggestions are open as I'm on vacation and I've been running in and out of my house so much I think i have a rut in the floor. Good day and happy new years.