The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Turbo Boost Creep Creeping T25 14B 16G [Merged]

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I have an HX-35 with the bullseye housing. It used to be internally gated with the 38mm flapper. But I took the door out and welded the hole from the actuator arm shut. I now run a Tial 38mm external WG off the O2 housinf and am still having boost creep issues. Even when connected directly from my boost source to the W/G it creeps up to 26 psi????:mad:
 
Hold on!!!!


My car was doing this is because that pressure tube that comes off the J pipe was cracked and not opening my Wastegate. try that and see if that works . Did for me.
 
okay so which way would be easier/cheaper, and what all would need to be ported/ needed to run a external wastegate?

Go to your browser, type in ebay.com, search for eclipse O2 housing. You'll find some good dump setups. Or, check out punishment racing. They have some nice ones that will recirulate. Just get a Tial 38mm for starters.
 
if i go with a external wastegate, its it alright if i just vent it, or do i have to connect it to my DP, also do i need a new exhaust manifold with a flange for a WG, or can i just mount one there?

I heard that you can route it back into the DP and it won't creep. I don't know if that is with the turbo ported anyway or not. Someone back me up on that.

You can weld a flange into your stock manifold but most would just suggest you buying a new cast manifold that is pre-flanged.
 
I heard that you can route it back into the DP and it won't creep. I don't know if that is with the turbo ported anyway or not. Someone back me up on that.

You can weld a flange into your stock manifold but most would just suggest you buying a new cast manifold that is pre-flanged.



I heard that too ,but it has to be a nice flowing one.

If it was me i would port the turbo just like everyone said to do.It helps alot with flow in the turbo .nice and smooth if done right.Then get a o2 dump thats cheaper,then getting a external wastegate.When i had my 16g .I got a 7cm gasket and ported it to that and the manifold and what not . And had a o2 dump and ran about 17psi and it helped alot with creep .Oh and o2 dumps and external wastegate sound so Nice when the turbo spools :D
Thats just what i would do . Plus you learn how to port at the same time.
 
Would an O2 dump on an internally gated turbo help with boost creep? How would it sound too?

I've always wondered that.
 
Would an O2 dump on an internally gated turbo help with boost creep? How would it sound too?

I've always wondered that.


Why sure it would help.Like i said before i had a ported 16g and o2 dump and it helped.And it sounds like a bad exhaust leak :D..Its pretty cool.
 
Why sure it would help.Like i said before i had a ported 16g and o2 dump and it helped.And it sounds like a bad exhaust leak :D..Its pretty cool.

Thanks. I picked up an Evo I 16g and I need to port it before I put it on. I think that the compressor side of the Evo I's are cast iron though instead of steel like the Evo III's. What kind of bit did you use to port? Have a pic of what it looks like because I am a little confused on what it looks like. Thanks.

I know this is a little off topic but it is answering some questions the OP might be wondering about in regard to solving his problem.
 
Thanks. I picked up an Evo I 16g and I need to port it before I put it on. I think that the compressor side of the Evo I's are cast iron though instead of steel like the Evo III's. What kind of bit did you use to port? Have a pic of what it looks like because I am a little confused on what it looks like. Thanks.

I know this is a little off topic but it is answering some questions the OP might be wondering about in regard to solving his problem.


These arent mine but heres a pic of carbon bits .The first one is for smooth finishing.The second is one that will eat metal very easy so i would be careful.And the 3rd one is pretty easy to use .Just take your time thats the key.and make sure you have something over your face . really fine metal will go everywhere.So dont do it around any open parts that you dont want metal in like heads or block or anything of that sort.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Nice, just wanted to make sure. Thank you very much. Do they sell these at Home Depot?
 
Nice, just wanted to make sure. Thank you very much. Do they sell these at Home Depot?

Your welcome glad i could be of some help.No you cant buy them from home depot.I just looked on e-bay.And here is what a quick search got me.
Maybe this will help.Theres alot of place`s you can get them though .
Racing Boat Exhaust Cylinder Head Porting Tool NEW - eBay (item 220187280382 end time Apr-26-08 07:26:56 PDT)

porting, Parts Accessories, Manufacturing Metalworking items on eBay.com

Again these are just ideas.But just look around.You`ll also need a air die grinder or electric die grinder .Heres a link to one i have and used it and still do to this day and i kid you not.Its been good for me .Its very cheap .Not saying you have to get this one but its worked for me .I had to put duck tap on the end of it but other then that it works.Just more ideas.LOT OF 2 NEW 1/4 INCH ELECTRIC DIE GRINDERS tools/cut - eBay (item 230243441374 end time Apr-22-08 19:56:43 PDT)

Good luck .
 
The wastegate path is only about two inches below the manifold flange. Use the right die grinder, and a 3" shanked carbide burr will get you where you want to be. Be careful you don't take off too much material.
 
The wastegate path is only about two inches below the manifold flange. Use the right die grinder, and a 3" shanked carbide burr will get you where you want to be. Be careful you don't take off too much material.



Thats what i was saying too.The one with the rougher teeth will eat like crazy LOL.Now if your porting the step in the turbin housing or manifold then the rough ones good to use gets it done faster.Still be careful
 
Does it cut any quicker than the standard double cut style? Any harder to control? Decent finish? I'm a bit curious since I've never used one, let alone on ferrous metals.
 
Does it cut any quicker than the standard double cut style? Any harder to control? Decent finish? I'm a bit curious since I've never used one, let alone on ferrous metals.

it should not, because it was designed for aluminum, i have one like that but i only use it for aluminum,

if you want to cut threw cast iron faster then just get one where the end has a larger circumference, then it would spin faster, cutting more with each rotation.

heres my old 14B i ported,

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I just ported my 16G turbo last week and i used an identical bit to the shorted bit in the picture above. I just posted some pictures of the porting work in my gallery. The porting has made it so i can control my boost and i have a 2.3L stroker on a small 16g. LOL, i know, its pretty pathetic to run such a small turbo on such a hungry motor. so yeah, check out the pictures i just posted and you will be able to see what type of finish you get from the shortest bit in the picture above.
 
I used a single-cut burr, with similar fluting to the middle one, but as large as the bottom one, when I ported my 14b. It worked quite well. I followed up with a sanding stone to smooth things out. If I had known about them, I would have also followed that up with a fine-grit flap wheel to polish the inlet of the turbine housing.
 
Maybe it this is for aluminum but this is the same one i used it for my turbo .For the step in the turbin housing and manifold step.And it worked great .Didnt hurt the bit at all either.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I had boost creep with full 3inch exhaust with no cat. I had my 14B ported and 2G O2 housing ported and it still crept. I put on an external dump O2 housing and problem solved. Except it was too damn loud, I ended up porting the 2G housing even more and put it back on (no creep).

Long story short, an external dump will cure it, but you cant beat a great porting job.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top