1G TPS or MAF?

[Johnny Thunder]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hi guys,
my Eclipse is working this way both cold and hot. Already changed, throttle body, FIAV, brand new ISC motor, spark plugs and wires but nothing changed, I have serius issues while parking cause the car turns off every time I take my foot off the pedal...

 

[19gsx91]

I'm not really understanding. What year eclipse? What engine (I can tell it's non turbo but is it a 1.8 or 2.0?) You are hitting the throttle in the video and the idles dropping too low afterwards?


That being the case check for vacuum leaks first and foremost.

 

[Johnny Thunder]

I'm not really understanding. What year eclipse? What engine (I can tell it's non turbo but is it a 1.8 or 2.0?) You are hitting the throttle in the video and the idles dropping too low afterwards?


That being the case check for vacuum leaks first and foremost.

1992 GS 2.0 non turbo.. you understood right, i hit the throttle and when I release It idle drops, is there any tutorial for the vacuum leak check? Is there any particolar in strumenti I Need?

Thanx

 

[pauleyman]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hi guys,
my Eclipse is working this way both cold and hot. Already changed, throttle body, FIAV, brand new ISC motor, spark plugs and wires but nothing changed, I have serius issues while parking cause the car turns off every time I take my foot off the pedal...

Have you set idle per the manual?

 

[Johnny Thunder]

Have you set idle per the manual?

Yes, and also reset the ECU After each swap of parta, but nothing Change, idles well but dies After releasing gas pedal, or when i start the engine i should accelerate to keep it working...

 

[pauleyman]

You have a vacuum leak or I would suspect isc drivers. If biss doesn't change idle much if at all if check the isc circuit. Does the car have a working fiav?

 

[pauleyman]

You'e holding it at 1000 with your foot?

 

[Johnny Thunder]

You have a vacuum leak or I would suspect isc drivers. If biss doesn't change idle much if at all if check the isc circuit. Does the car have a working fiav?

I'll try to make a vacuum check following a tutorial. Biss is working fine, it changes idle well turning it.. the fiav was in good conditions and tried two different but but nothing changed.

 

[Johnny Thunder]

You'e holding it at 1000 with your foot?

No, i set the idle at 1000 using the biss screw, because leaving it at 7-800 would kill the engine as I release the throttle.

 

[pauleyman]

You have an isc problem or a leak. You cac use the same pressure method to find it that turbo guys use.
Again in this thread im going to pose the question. Did you set idle with factiry methods. Meaning you grounded the correct diagnostic connectors?

 

[Johnny Thunder]

You have an isc problem or a leak. You cac use the same pressure method to find it that turbo guys use.
Again in this thread im going to pose the question. Did you set idle with factiry methods. Meaning you grounded the correct diagnostic connectors?

I checked for leaks and every linea is working fine. I don't know how ti ground diagnostic connectorst and never touched the ECU, is there a tutorial or something? When I said reset I meant only that i disconnected the batteria for a night and set the biss screw in standard position (almost 2 complete rounds out). The problema is that the car workshop not roperly iven while driving under 1500-1800 rpm works really bad like "on-off" It makes "Little jumps" I thoungt that could bè an injector problem, maybe I have ti clean them...

 

[pauleyman]

I checked for leaks and every linea is working fine. I don't know how ti ground diagnostic connectorst and never touched the ECU, is there a tutorial or something? When I said reset I meant only that i disconnected the batteria for a night and set the biss screw in standard position (almost 2 complete rounds out). The problema is that the car workshop not roperly iven while driving under 1500-1800 rpm works really bad like "on-off" It makes "Little jumps" I thoungt that could bè an injector problem, maybe I have ti clean them...

I'm guessing you didn't look at a single tutorial. You cannot just sit BISS at some arbitrary point. There is a method to set the idle and you must follow it. When you ground the check connector at the firewall you set the ISC in a neutral position. At this point you set the BISS. ECU then has a wide enough range of control to deal with idle in during driving conditions. It is also possible if you've been driving around with a bad ISC the drivers in your ECU are fried. So even if you put in a new ISC it won't work. How did you check for leaks?. If you answer a visual that is incorrect. You must employ some testing method. For Turbo guys we typically pressurize the intake and look for leaks with soapy water. This will also work for you. Obtain or make a jumper wire to ground the check connector. Then set the idle properly. Earlier in this thread you were asked point-blank did you set the idle for the manual and you said yes. If you do not understand what the manual is telling you or you do not have a manual do not answer yes. It makes it very difficult for us to help you.
vfaq.com/mods/BISS-1G.html

 

[Johnny Thunder]

I'm guessing you didn't look at a single tutorial. You cannot just sit BISS at some arbitrary point. There is a method to set the idle and you must follow it. When you ground the check connector at the firewall you set the ISC in a neutral position. At this point you set the BISS. ECU then has a wide enough range of control to deal with idle in during driving conditions. It is also possible if you've been driving around with a bad ISC the drivers in your ECU are fried. So even if you put in a new ISC it won't work. How did you check for leaks?. If you answer a visual that is incorrect. You must employ some testing method. For Turbo guys we typically pressurize the intake and look for leaks with soapy water. This will also work for you. Obtain or make a jumper wire to ground the check connector. Then set the idle properly. Earlier in this thread you were asked point-blank did you set the idle for the manual and you said yes. If you do not understand what the manual is telling you or you do not have a manual do not answer yes. It makes it very difficult for us to help you.
vfaq.com/mods/BISS-1G.html

Thank you so much for the tutorial, it's really well written! Sorry if I said yes earlier but I thought it was enough to disconnect the battery and adjust the screw Tomorrow I'll try to make the proper adjustment grounding the ignition timing plug and the no10 pin on the ECU connector. But I still don't understand how could be that my BISS screw went out of adjustment without touching anything and the car was working fine... One day while driving RPMs started oscillating up and down and from that day I had this idle issue and stalling problems... when I start the car now it dies immediatly and have to open the keep throttle open with pedal.

Last thing I checkd for leaks closing the 3 holes on the throttle body one by one with my fingertip and hearing if engine works different, and spraying son carburateur cleaner on the intake hose, and al the vacuum lines around, but engine worked the same way after doing that.

 

[Vegas Smith]

You could have developed a crack in some random hose or your isc may have gone out. It's a rabbit hole trying to figure it all out but eventually you'll find it.

 

[pauleyman]

Thank you so much for the tutorial, it's really well written! Sorry if I said yes earlier but I thought it was enough to disconnect the battery and adjust the screw Tomorrow I'll try to make the proper adjustment grounding the ignition timing plug and the no10 pin on the ECU connector. But I still don't understand how could be that my BISS screw went out of adjustment without touching anything and the car was working fine... One day while driving RPMs started oscillating up and down and from that day I had this idle issue and stalling problems... when I start the car now it dies immediatly and have to open the keep throttle open with pedal.

Last thing I checkd for leaks closing the 3 holes on the throttle body one by one with my fingertip and hearing if engine works different, and spraying son carburateur cleaner on the intake hose, and al the vacuum lines around, but engine worked the same way after doing that.

Your may still have an isc problem. You need objective testing. What you're describing isn't objective or thorough. I'd go after isc and controllers first then pressurized the intake and look for leaks that way.

 

[Johnny Thunder]

Today I made a couple of tests,

tried again to check for vacuum leaks (this time spraying sopay water over vacuumlines, gaskets and intake manfold), nothing changed the engine works and sounds always the same way..

Checked my TPS and read 4.9 Kohm (terminal 4 and 1) and read 0.87-5.15 kohm opening the throttle (terminal 4 and 2), changed smoothly while opening.

Checked my ISC and read 39 ohm between coils (tried 1-2, 2-3, 4-5, 5-6).

Also connected a voltmeter to the ECU to read error codes but it's a bit difficoult to read pulsating values, I recorded a shor video:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[AllanL]

don't you have an auto led bulb?

or an analog voltmeter?

 

[Johnny Thunder]

I've set idle with factory methods following the tutorial, now the car holds 750rpm perfectly and averything's fine until I touch the gas pedal, accelerating the problem is the same... the ISC values I measured are good? (39 ohm between each coil)

 

[Johnny Thunder]

don't you have an auto led bulb?

or an analog voltmeter?

I don't have'em