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Tps/ohms

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linksys42

20+ Year Contributor
412
30
Jan 8, 2003
Union, Missouri
Hello, I tested my TPS yesterday with volt meter and when I did the test to see how it responds it sat at 565 ohms when I rotated it went up to like 5600 ohms in the Haynes manual it says the resistance should start at 1100 and work its way up to 5500 at WOT it say if it doesn’t fall within these numbers to replace it. But on my data logger it is set at 10% at idle and at WOT it goes to 99.6% I don’t think something is right. Should I replace the TPS I checked it because I have a high idle. It doesn’t fluctuate but sometimes sits at 1200 rpms and sometimes comes down to 750RPM’s and there is a really rough idle. I don’t have a boost leak there because I tested it and just replaced the TB seals. (It started happing right after I replaced the TB seals. but there isn’t a boost leak. Thanks
 
No code 14, it is really weird with the ignition in the on potion without the car running my data logger says the TPS is at 9.3% but as soon as I turn the car on (running) it jumps up to 9.7% turn the car off with the ignition on goes back to 9.3% again? I don’t get it.
 
are you sure you had the volt meter set right maybe you were in kohms or something. did you test it with out any wires hooked up to it. if you are postive about it maybe a grounding issue has came about. run a while from the tb to the negative terminal to find out. also is the tb clean. if you are 100% the ohm meter was set right then spec is what spec is and needs to be replaced. as for the data logger it seems to be pretty close thats what makes me wonder if the ohm mete was set right or the specs might be wrong where you are getting them.
 
Sounds like you don't have the TPS setup properly then.

Stolen from RRE's Site said:
Closed TP Switch and TP Sensor Adjustment [2G]

1. Disconnect the connector of the TPS.
2. Connect ohm meter between terminals 3 and 4.
3. Insert a feeler gauge with thickness 0.45mm (.0177 in.) between the throttle stop and the throttle lever.
[Fold a piece of paper in half 4 times if you don't have the feeler -Ed.]
4. Loosen the TPS mounting bolts. Turn the TPS all the way counter
clockwise.
5. Check for continuity in this condition.
6. Slowly turn the TPS clockwise until the point where continuity and
non-continuity is found (pins 3 and 4).
7. Tighten the TPS mounting bolts.
8. Check the voltage between pins 2 and 4 of the TPS with the ignition
switch on, but the engine not started.
9. Standard value: 400 - 1000 mV
10. Remove the feeler gauge.

Port out the Throttle Body Elbow at the flange where it bolts to the TB. At the same time you should smooth out the sharp edge inside the elbow. Don't get too greedy in porting the elbow, it is very thin. Check for vacuum leaks and be sure you are getting full throttle actuation when you push the gas pedal all the way to the floor.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gtbswap.htm - Scroll down and read.
 
Use the logger to test the Closed Throttle Position switch. Check it when the engine is cold and again when fully warmed up. Make sure the throttle is allowed to close completely. If the throttle cable is slightly too tight it can cause idle speed fluctualtions because the cable housing expands more than the cable when the engine bay heats up.

I'm a bit confused why DSMJim posted the TPS adjustment procedure for a 2G when this guys profile says he has a 1G? Are you having problems with a 2G?
 
I know it is hitting the idle switch. But the TB plenum isn’t all the way closed because when it closes completely it sticks. So I had to barely crack it open a little. for some reason it hangs up? dont know why?
 
I just started using my Pocketlogger and I noticed the TPS is
reading 9% on my car also. It does this at idle and with the
key forward and the engine not running. With the gas pedal to
the floor it does read 100%. Is it normal to read 9% with your
foot completely off the gas? My car has terrible issues with
Idling. It surges from 1k-1,300rpm and sometimes idles steady
at 2k. Is the TPS my problem?
 
The TPS isn't you problem. The ECU does not look at the TPS reading to control idle. It only watches for rapid TPS changes to calculate Accel Enrich.

For idle issues, check the BISS screw adjustment, check the ISC, check for boost leaks, make sure the BOV is plumbed back to the intake, and check out the idle surge VFAQ.

and check the throttle cable tension as I mentioned above.

The closed throttle position switch is also used as a throttle plate stopper. It should be adjusted so the throttle can close as much as possible without sticking. When the throttle is closed the switch should activate so the ECU knows it's time to go into idle mode. To check the operation of the switch use your logger. Go to the Diagnostic screen, tap the icon that shows two arrows pointing left and right, then look at the Idle Switch indicator. It should change as soon as you open the throttle slightly.
 
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