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torque specs for lug nuts? awd tire rotation?

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92 eagle talon tsi awd

should i torque my rims to 100lbs or less?
-Anywhere from 80-100ft/lbs is acceptable to me. Although I prefer around 100 for a little extra insurance;)

also when doing tire rotation on a awd should i move the front tires to the back and back to front?
-Yes, that is the way to do it:)

is this correct way to tighten the lug nuts= http://appauto.files.wordpress.com/2008/03/lugbolttorquepattern.jpg
-Yes, that is the way to do it

Yes, yes, and yes
 
if you don't have directional tires, then just rotate them diagonally (right front and left rear get swapped, left front and right rear get swapped). if they are directional then they can only go front to back. also i recommend overtorquing them to near 100, but don't forget to use anti-seize or over time that more torque will just destroy the threads or your lugs could seize to the stud.
 
i would just do cris-cross. it really doesn't matter, but in rotations you are supposed to move the driven wheels straight, but awd is all 4, so they typically just cris-cross them.

on a fwd the front wheels would go straight to the back, and the back wheels would cris-cross to the front.

rwd the rear tires would go straight front and the fronts would cris-cross to the back.

if a car has staggered tires or wheels then they would go side to side, unless they are directional, then you just can't rotate them.
 
...plus you use the "Star" method when doing the nuts. You criss-cross the tightening sequence instead of going around. Take the top nut as the "12;00" position,then tighten down the "5:00" position, then the "10:00" position, the "2:00", and finally the "7:00".

And you also torque in steps up to the recommended torque range for this helps gets the wheel tight to the rotor more evenly, for I start light-almost finger tight, then gradually work around the wheel with the wrench til I hit the recommended range.

And if you over-torque, you can possibly warp the rotors..

-Good luck .... DSM
 
WOW! Everyone's giving torque specs without even asking if he has steel wheels or alloy's?!?!?! Do NOT under any circumstances torque alloys to 100 ft/lbs unless you like replacing wheel studs AND wheels, AND rotors (they'll deform and warp). You will stretch the studs and likely gall the threads making them snap when you get around to taking that wheel back off. I learned that through expensive, very annoying personal experience 20 years ago!

You might get away with 100 ft/lbs on a steel wheel but I personally run 80 ft/lbs on alloys. Just make sure you use a quality torque wrench or you might as well just wrench till you grunt... BTW when you hear that 'squeak', it's the sound of the threads being destroyed.
 
WOW! Everyone's giving torque specs without even asking if he has steel wheels or alloy's?!?!?! Do NOT under any circumstances torque alloys to 100 ft/lbs unless you like replacing wheel studs AND wheels, AND rotors (they'll deform and warp). You will stretch the studs and likely gall the threads making them snap when you get around to taking that wheel back off. I learned that through expensive, very annoying personal experience 20 years ago!

You might get away with 100 ft/lbs on a steel wheel but I personally run 80 ft/lbs on alloys. Just make sure you use a quality torque wrench or you might as well just wrench till you grunt... BTW when you hear that 'squeak', it's the sound of the threads being destroyed.

I got enkei rims so im guessing there alloy? so i should torque them at 90?

also noticed my back wheels tilt inside a lil bit and my front ones dont? are all 1gs like that?
 
Get an alignment to get your "tilt" (also known as camber) fixed.

Criss-crossing when rotating isn't as important as getting the front tires to the back and the back tires to the front. This is important on cars that like to chop/cup/feather the inside edges of the rear tires, as is most common in vehicles that are heavy up front and light in the rear, such as hatchbacks, trucks, vans, etc. At my shop, we recommend rotating once every 6,000 miles or every other oil change for the most part, depending on use. In some cases, like Ford Focus hatchbacks, we recommend every 3k miles. They eat rear tires like it's their job due to their whacked-out alignment specs.

The star pattern of tightening lugs is also correct. 90ft/lbs should be sufficient. After about 25 miles of driving, re-check the torque on all the lugs.
 
I got enkei rims so im guessing there alloy? so i should torque them at 90?

also noticed my back wheels tilt inside a lil bit and my front ones dont? are all 1gs like that?

I personally torque my Enkei's to 80 ft/lbs and check every 50 miles until they stay there. Big difference between the lug nuts from the factory and aftermarket ones, factory nuts have a washer and aftermarket ones don't. That washer helps distribute the force better across a larger surface area. Enkei's usually require an tapered bottom 'mag style' lug nut that centers the holes onto the wheel stud. Instead of having a flat on flat contact area, the shoulder of the lug nut is contacting the beveled edge of the wheel. Too much torque and you can damage the wheel making that beveled hole larger and less likely to properly secure the wheel to the car. That would be a bad thing! I strongly suggest just keeping a torque wrench in the car right next to a tire pressure gauge. Make it part of your normal routine while gassing up to check tire pressure and lug nut tightness. It really doesn't take that much time and you'll never have to worry about loose wheels again. If you do notice that a certain wheel (or lug nut) is consistently loose, you need to investigate as to WHY it's coming loose. Is it due to vibration or faulty hardware?
 
I personally torque my Enkei's to 80 ft/lbs and check every 50 miles until they stay there. Big difference between the lug nuts from the factory and aftermarket ones, factory nuts have a washer and aftermarket ones don't. That washer helps distribute the force better across a larger surface area. Enkei's usually require an tapered bottom 'mag style' lug nut that centers the holes onto the wheel stud. Instead of having a flat on flat contact area, the shoulder of the lug nut is contacting the beveled edge of the wheel. Too much torque and you can damage the wheel making that beveled hole larger and less likely to properly secure the wheel to the car. That would be a bad thing! I strongly suggest just keeping a torque wrench in the car right next to a tire pressure gauge. Make it part of your normal routine while gassing up to check tire pressure and lug nut tightness. It really doesn't take that much time and you'll never have to worry about loose wheels again. If you do notice that a certain wheel (or lug nut) is consistently loose, you need to investigate as to WHY it's coming loose. Is it due to vibration or faulty hardware?

So enkei's are all alloy? i got the enkei rs7 rims and should i torque them to 90 u think?
 
Well i went to discount tires for balance and rotation and it showed 100lbs in there system for my car and the guy said he couldnt go less because thats whats recommended in the system so i hope it will be fine i know after a u put more miles on it u most likely would have to retorque them so i dunno :\
 
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