Torque Plate? [Merged 11-6]

[FourG63GST]

taboospeedshop.com rents them out

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

What you read on the internet is always true.

 

[Jehu]

Heh, I guess if high frequency shaking will change the size of the bores you better be careful each time the cylinder fires with many times more force than the shaking would exert on the metal...

 

[pneumo]

Heh, I guess if high frequency shaking will change the size of the bores you better be careful each time the cylinder fires with many times more force than the shaking would exert on the metal...

Yeah, that link wasn't entirely applicable in our case. It talks about building up a small, single cylinder motor with an aluminum cylinder. It's not even a sleeved cylinder, just bare aluminum. No wonder he went through all that trouble to get it round.

Stress releiving sounds good, but I think all our blocks are old enough to be considered 'well seasoned' by now.

 

[Defiant]

taboospeedshop.com rents them out

Sure. Get them to answer the phone.

 

[Street Surgeon]

, no better yet, send them the money and then you might be able to have your block machined in 2028 when and IF it shows up :laugh:

 

[whitedawg]

Mods, please move this if this is not the correct place to post -- I just figured it was the place where I'd "most likely" find what I'm looking for...
I'm rebuilding a 6bolt to drop into my 2g, but the machine shop I normally use doesn't have a torque plate. They do great work and I trust them completely, so I'd rather bring one with me instead of finding a new shop to do the work. Does anyone have a torque plate available for rent (or borrow, if you're feeling really generous )? I live in Northern Kentucky (just across the river from Cincinnati), but I'm willing to pay shipping back and forth if you're willing to ship it.
On a similar note, if anyone knows a business that rents out torque plates, I'd happily accept that info as well.

Thanks,
Craig

Craig,
Replying to an old post but did you ever get the work done yet? If not, try these guys out near Dayton, OH- http://www.performanceclinic.net/performance_services.htm

 

[bowerboy_1]

Does anybody know where i can buy a torque plate from?

 

[JUANPSI]

www.toastier.com

 

[92awddsm]

You can rent one here. http://taboospeedshop.com/torque_plate.htm

 

[Awoler]

I now have a torque plate that i had made for the 4g63 and am willing to rent it out if that is a enough need about everyone for it. I read about taboo's on there website and see as it cause it cost me almost $400 in maching and material. i too would have to have a least a $400 deposit but (maybe paypal) but i would rent it for a week for $30 plus shipping to and from....would anyone be interested? i dont know who was tried to get anything from taboo before but if it was anything like there shift fork fiasco that would mean you would send them your money in feb. and get the plate sometime time in june.. my wife dosent work so i would be able to have her ship the plate asap...any takers?

 

[DJpHGotBanned]

how about posting the weight and your zip code so we can look around for shipping prices. I know the Nissan guys do this, only they ship from renter to renter to renter.. thus saving the trip back to the owner every time.

I'm interested, but for a 4G64. What bore is it set up for?

 

[Awoler]

it will work for the 4g64 also the bore is larger than 87.5 mm for machine clearence the weight i will come up with tomarrow after i get a new bathroom scale at walmart (grocery night).the renter to renter thing would work but i would have to hold the deposit from the first renter till the second gets it and so on and so on...so i guess that would work and besides i can fly anywhere in the states for less than what the plate cost if someone happen to "lose it in shipment"......

 

[DJpHGotBanned]

How much is shipping to 21074? I can arrange shipping B2B through my FedEx account. What are the shipping demensions and weight?

Ever find anyone else who would like to rent it after me? Its shocking that nobody uses a torque plate these days or something. Is there a time limit, or would I keep it until the next person needed it, even if that was you?

 

[Defiant]

With apologies, sales have to go to Classifieds.

However, those interested can still PM you.

 

[Drifter27_04]

Hello DSMer's,

Its been awhile since I have last posted on my build but after a death in the family I just dropped everything for the past several months but I am picking things back up now to finish where I left off and now needing some information. I am looking to have something running within the next month.

How much concern should I be if I only have the block bore and not torque plated? I am aware of the torque plate gives the true cylinder bore but I am also trying to cut a few corner if possible. If the car will be my daily driver should I go ahead and have it bored not worrying about the plate. I plan on going to the track on some weekends but not alot. What do you DSMer's think I should do.........regular bore / torque plate bore it?

Thank you for looking

 

[BISHILVR]

Thats a tough one. I think that to do it "right" you should use a torque plate if it is at all possible, but you would be ok without one, as in it would run fine. I am having one made as we speak if that gives you any idea whether I think its important. Look at it this way, the 4g63 likely did'nt have a torque plate used from the factory anyway. I think for using forged pistons that are cam ground such as wiseco pistons that you should use a plate to get the most from them though.

 

[blue1]

Ok I have just done my bore and hone with a torque plate and ARP studs and after taking off the torque plate and remeasuring there was .0002' difference in some spots in the bore near the top aligning with the stud positions. not enough to worry about!

 

[kambonate]

ok guys, i am going to be doing a 2.4 liter build and i have sourced out all the parts, prices and machining. the only thing is i dont really want to have a high performance bored and built without a torque plate.. the machine shop does not have one but they can get one but it will cost a couple hundred dollars and then he get to keep it.. so i have come to the conclusion if some one wants to design one or if they have the schematics or blueprints (SOLID WORKS, INVENTOR) and what alloy to make it out of i can have one built on my buddies HAAS CNC machine.. and then i would pass it around for everyone to use on the forum that is rebuilding an engine.. so everybody can benifit from it.. i would maybe have a few made.. thanks
~nate

 

[BISHILVR]

I am having one made right now. First off let me say that it is not cheap at all. The steel plate is 2 inches thick that we are using and it alone was over $100. Second, is that shipping a piece of steel like that would probably cost $50 at least each way, since it weighs around 70+ lbs right now I would guess, so I'm figuring around $50 shipping since the last head I weighed was around 30 lbs and it was $35 to ship. As far as design, I just used a head gasket and had them copy it on the steel slab. I too thought about renting my plate out but I think it would'nt work out because of shipping costs, who is going to be willing to pay $150 to rent this thing for a few days???

 

[GVR4592]

I was told to make the torque plate out of the same material as the cylinder head to properly simulate the cylinder head being bolted to the block.

 

[DevilSperm]

I was told to make the torque plate out of the same material as the cylinder head to properly simulate the cylinder head being bolted to the block.

This is true, however, if you cant then its not super important. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156220

 

[m1nd64m3]

If you guys need a cad version of the plate I made one for somone a year ago. Just PM me and I can send you the file.

 

[steel_3d]

I got my block back from the machine shop and started doing some measuring with my dial bore gauge, and the bores seem to be all over the place.

I asked for torque plate bore and hone to 40 over and .0035-.004 piston to wall clearance for my Wisecos, and line hone the mains. Asked for the mains and torque plate to be torqued down to 60 and 90 respectively throughout both procedures.

I measured first with nothing torqued down, and the numbers were really off in the cylinders and mains. My piston to wall clearance was way too little in some spots. Then people suggested torquing the head down.

So I torqued the head on, and the mains with the Kiggly girdle, just like I told the shop to do, and measured from the bottom. Some of the really whacky numbers came back in line a bit, but there's still at least .75 out of roundness and taper in some cases (it's more like 1 thou but I'm trying to be conservative to give the shop the benefit of the doubt). The clearance is still not quite enough. I attached the numbers I recorded before and after torquing the head and the rear main and girdle down (I didn't have the rear main and girdle torqued down before, just the front and center since I was concentrating on the #1 cylinder).

The circles with lines indicate the direction I was measuring, and the three measurements are near the top, center and bottom of the bore going down.

<img src = "http://i3.tinypic.com/x3h995.jpg">

<img src = "http://i1.tinypic.com/x3ha50.jpg">

As you can see torquing the head down caused about 5 tenths of warpage, even 7.5 in some cases, if my measuring skill is to be trusted. That's quite a bit more than what I was told by shops before (including the one who did the work). The usual quoted warpage due to the head seems to be quoted around 3 tenths of a thou. Granted, 90lbft with moly lube is a decently high torque value.

I'd be ok with the piston to wall clearance if I could measure all my pistons at 85.93mm, but some of them I can't measure that small, they're more like 85.94, which is a 23.5 on my indicator. To get the .0035-.004 clearance I specified, all those measurements would have to be 20 dead on, never bigger.

The main bore still reads bad. I measured the #3 main (thrust) with no bearing in it and it's very out of round (much wider near the break than vertically), and the #1 with the bearing in it is still tapered and oor. #2 is about the same, with the bearing in. The numbers are at the bottom of the second pic. I couldn't measure the rear mains because of the engine stand, but I'll give those a shot when it's off. The only thing I can think of is they put the caps on backwards or something?? I told them 60lbft of torque, which is what I just torqued it to. No clue why it could be so off. Do you guys think that's too much OOR to put it together like that?

I'm almost willing to let the piston clearance go, since Wiseco sometimes recommends .003" and even less, but if I decide to go beyond 400whp it won't be so comfortable. But that main bore doesn't look good to me. The cylinder taper and OOR is out of spec, but not sure how bad that really is. I guess it can't be good for ring seal. Do your cylinders always measure completely straight? How can it be this whacky after being freshly honed?

Would you guys put it together like this? I had illusions of everything being perfect and every measurement spot on since I spent all this money on machine work and gave them reproducible conditions, but my bubble's kinda burst now.

 

[GVR4592]

Do you have the engine on an engine stand?