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to much crankcase pressure should i buy it

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grimjeeper73

Probationary Member
6
0
Jan 28, 2011
friendship, Indiana
is it worth it to pay 2300 for a 91 awd with 119000 miles with to much crankcase pressure? the car has a lot of mods and i have read that it can be everything from the pcv , to compression probs... or i have the option to buy a completely stock 91 for 2000 dollars i just need a nudge in the right direction

thanks
 
Did you ask if it was recently rebuilt? If It was rebuilt incorrectly, it may be compression problems. If its just the pcv, that is an easy fix... or you can try to do a crank case pressure relief mod... I wouldhave to search for a link... can't remember where I saw the write-up...
 
It depends on the overall condition (exterior, interior etc...) of both vehicles as well as the mods and the problems with the first one.
 
here is the link to the car said it was blowing out of the oil cap and when i called him about it he blowing the dipstick out and smoking a little from the turbo seals...i also read somewhere too much crankcase pressure will cause turbo seals to go out but i dont know if thats true...

91 talon tsi awd turbo

here is the stock car...

!~>1991 EAGLE TALON<~!
 
Yea Im not sure if I would get that....neon lights and that diamond star decal kinda throw me off along with the "remote switching system" and the oil problems.
 
yeah i thought the same...my limit is 2500 and i was wanting the most bang for my buck...but on the other hand the stock car may be more reliable but all the dealer would tell me is that it runs and drives LOL

i am leaning towards the stock one because it is so clean for what it is and the price...
 
I would buy the stock one, that is if you want to go with the FWD. It looks unmolested and in good shape. The AWD probably has internal engine issues from abuse and the body looks a little beat up.
 
Theres not really enough mods on the "modded" one that would make me sway towards it.
 
The factory breather system/PCV setup is inadequate for an EVO III 16g. Especially on a car with that many miles on the odo. But the 3-bolt rear would be the deal breaker for me at that price.

would that have anything to do with the crankcase pressure...im new to turbo cars
 
Yes, a faulty PCV system or an inadequate system would not "vent" the increased pressure seen in the motor efficiently. Allowing it to blow out your dipstick and what not. Bad piston rings can also cause this, and would be seen in a compression test.
 
I would go get the stock one.

It looks better and if its AWD then there is really no reason to get the one with issues. It really doesn't have a lot of mods done to it. 16g and misc boltons? Pass. I would try and talk the guy down as well at the stealership. Talk em down to 1800 and take it home.
 
Yes, a faulty PCV system or an inadequate system would not "vent" the increased pressure seen in the motor efficiently. Allowing it to blow out your dipstick and what not. Bad piston rings can also cause this, and would be seen in a compression test.

What he said.

I managed to blow mine out at 20 PSI on a freshly-rebuilt and broken in engine with nothing but a regular-old Big16g.

First time on the dyno, and every time above 20 PSI until I modified my breather system. When you're under boost, the PCV valve snaps shut, leaving you with only ONE 1/4" breather on the valve cover. That's not enough for anything better-than stock. Let the domestic guys tell you what happens to a V8 engine with inadequate breathers. Our motor's different, but the result is the same. The longer you run it like that, the more wear occurs.

If it were an un-modified car pushing out the dipstick, it would have a blown head gasket, hole in a piston, burnt rings, shot valve stem seals, cracked head or block... you wouldn't buy that car. But a modified car? You couldn't tell if it was coming from one of those problems or the bigger turbo without tearing into it. I think everyone's giving you good advice about your car selection. That thing looks like someone else's learning experience... one they will regret parting with once they realize how boring reliable cars are.
 
yeah i thought the same...my limit is 2500 and i was wanting the most bang for my buck...but on the other hand the stock car may be more reliable but all the dealer would tell me is that it runs and drives LOL

i am leaning towards the stock one because it is so clean for what it is and the price...

Id go with the clean stock 1g. use that 500 on timing belt, sparks, oilchange "royal purple"
 
Leaking oil from the oil cap does not automatically make me believe there is a pressure issue. Everything has a MTBF. My stock 130k old oil cap with NO seal worked perfectly for 130k. Then one day it started spewing oil. Inserting a seal and adjusting the tightness solved that up right quick.

I'd still get the stock car. It's beautiful.
 
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