Timming belt issue

[BLINKY619]

Ok people i replaced my timing belt, hydraulic tensioner.... Now it keeps skipping teeth for some reason... I have tighten it, and let it sit for a couple of minutes and it gets a bit loose, now i go and tighten it more and it seems to get tighter but when i give it gas,, throughout the rpm range i get wobble in the timing belt like its loose,,

like show in the picture in red arrows...!!! Im out of ideas.. Im thinking of replacing the idler pulley and tensioner pulley to see if it will change anything.....

Im out of ideas people.. Your help would be appreciated...!!!!

 

[born2tune]

you answered your own question,
think of it, you have a belt and only 2 places where you can adjust tension and the tension doesn't hold....

were you trying to use your old tensioners after your rebuild? not recommended, replace both and im sure you issue will go away

 

[JusMX141]

Something's wrong with the way you're doing the tensioning.

I always let the grenade pin in the auto-tensioner until the eccentric has been set and torqued. Once you pull the grenade pin and rotate the engine a few times, there should be the proper amount of distance between the auto-tensioner body and the tensioner arm.

Been doing it like this for years and it's never let me down!

 

[SrKegler]

Are you setting the correct tension each time? An easy way to check the tension is to run your rod in until it just contacts the arm. It should only take 2 1/2 to 3 turns for the arm to bottom out on the hydraulic tensioner body.

 

[BLINKY619]

i have replaced the hydraulic tensioner 3 times with no luck.... i bought them, from the dealer oem...!!!! and the timing belt..... but heres the catch, i wait a 30 minutes and check it again... now after that i go check the tention of the timing belt like i supposed to, and it feels a bit loose, so i go check if the pulley got loose in some way, and what do i see (it hasnt moved a bit) now i check the hydraulic tensioner and the pin moves down... so i go tighten the belt a bit more and now let it sit for a couple of minutes and and goes down again..... but now its lower.... so what i do is get a long screwdriver and move the tensioner up with when i do that i see the hydraulic tensioner pin go up..... and the belt get tight again...... so after i let it sit again.... it does it again to the point that i cant see the little hole in the pin..... so im thinking of changing all my timing pulleys and try it again...!!!

 

[dsm8883]

Something's wrong with the way you're doing the tensioning.

I always let the grenade pin in the auto-tensioner until the eccentric has been set and torqued. Once you pull the grenade pin and rotate the engine a few times, there should be the proper amount of distance between the auto-tensioner body and the tensioner arm.

Been doing it like this for years and it's never let me down!

I was thinking the same thing. I set mine up tight so when it is all said and done i can still stick the pin back in without pushing the tensioner down or anything. I would rather be to tight than to loose. OP make sure you get this a 100% before you have to buy some valves or a head.

 

[BigBeans]

i have replaced the hydraulic tensioner 3 times with no luck.... i bought them, from the dealer oem...!!!! and the timing belt..... but heres the catch, i wait a 30 minutes and check it again... now after that i go check the tention of the timing belt like i supposed to, and it feels a bit loose, so i go check if the pulley got loose in some way, and what do i see (it hasnt moved a bit) now i check the hydraulic tensioner and the pin moves down... so i go tighten the belt a bit more and now let it sit for a couple of minutes and and goes down again..... but now its lower.... so what i do is get a long screwdriver and move the tensioner up with when i do that i see the hydraulic tensioner pin go up..... and the belt get tight again...... so after i let it sit again.... it does it again to the point that i cant see the little hole in the pin..... so im thinking of changing all my timing pulleys and try it again...!!!

How are you loading the eccentric pulley and torquing it down?

You're doing it wrong. There's no way 3 OEM tensioners are defective. I don't know what you're doing, but it isnt right.

I know this is for a 6 bolt, but its the same principle.

YouTube - 6-Bolt Mitsubishi Timing Belt Replacement Part 2

 

[BLINKY619]

I do it like mentioned... But even though i had tighten the belt as far as i could with the hydraulic tensioner grenade pin in it would still sink in... So i pull the tensioner pin out and the belt is so far as i could go, it looks like it barely moved so i decide to let it sit for a bit and then the pin still went down....

 

[LuizHGato]

what can happen if the ride without balancer shaft belt?

 

[BLINKY619]

update...!!!!

ok people since the last time i redid my timing belt i havent drove it... Now i drove it yesterday and sure enough it skipped timing again....

So to get things straight and make sure im not doing anything wrong... I took it to my local mitsubishi dealer so they could redo my timing... So i got it back yesterday and it ran well for a couple of 30 minutes..... Guess what (it skipped timing again... Im out of ideas and got another brand new oem hydraulic tensioner and pulley from the dealer... And took it to the dealer again to get the timing belt fixed.... Now i got it a few hours ago, and omfg it skipped again.... Im out of ideas... I thought i was doing it wrong cause people would say that if it was done properly that it would skip... So im sure i was doing it right...!!!!!! Im out of ideas..... Help!!!!!! If someone has input please let me know...!!! I posted my car on craigslist, im tired of dealing with this car... If i could get any ones opinion to fix it before i sell it i would appreciate it...!!! Thanks in advance

 

[SrKegler]

Are you re-using the same belt. Check the teeth on it. Did the Mitsu dealer know this was a 6 bolt? I believe the 6 bolt tensioner pulley tightens in the opposite direction of the 7 bolt.

Has the dowel pin sheared off the camshaft? Only thing left that has any bearing on belt tightness would be the tensioner arm itself. It would have to have a BIGGG hole worn in the arm though for it to cause you to run out of adjustment room on the tensioner.

 

[BLINKY619]

yea they knew it was a 6 bolt... i told him myself the first time... then the second time it told them again that it has a 1g 6bolt swap and no the timing belt it brand new... im guessing i havent put over 100 miles....!!!! im lost people

 

[BLINKY619]

bump...

UPDATE...!!!!

took it again to a different dealer and it skipped again.. they decided to figure out what going on...!!!!

 

[Timechg]

Are you using a Balance shaft elimination kit? I had a cheap one off of ebay, and the stubby shaft wasn't machined right and the oil pump seized and caused the timing belt to skip. The cheap shaft had some noticeable flat spots when spinning the oil pump sprocket while the OEM stubby shaft spun freely.

 

[BLINKY619]

well its ot a ebay balance shaft elimination kit... got it from extreampsi... also i got it redone by the dealer total of 6 times with no extra cost... even they are lost...

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Where is the tensioner pulley pinholes when it loosen itself? I still think you and Mitsubishi is not doing it right. Are you tightening the bolt for the tensioner pulley after the auto tensioner bracket is in contact? What were you using to make sure the auto tensioner was preset so you could move the grenade pin in and out while the belt is set?

How I do is very simple. Wrap the belt around. I have the jay racing kit, so I position the cams and put the cam stay in between them. Then I clock the crank and oil pump gears one tooth back so when I tension it, it will line up. Next is I tension the auto tensioner with the tensioner rod from jay racing until it touches and pushes the auto tensioner in and I can move the pin in and out. Then, I tension the tensioner pulley so everything lines up using the jay racing bracket tool. By this time, the bracket the tensioner pulley is on can't move, the belt is taught, and the gears all should line up. Finally, I torque down the bolt holding the pulley. Then I make sure the auto tensioner is still able to move the pin in and out, if not, the belt is too tight. If not, back off the rod. I then rotate the motor a few times and make sure it lines up. Lastly, pull the pin and its set.

Where is the tensioner pulley pinholes when it loosen itself? I still think you and Mitsubishi is not doing it right. Are you tightening the bolt for the tensioner pulley after the auto tensioner bracket is in contact? What were you using to make sure the auto tensioner was preset so you could move the grenade pin in and out while the belt is set?

How I do is very simple. Wrap the belt around. I have the jay racing kit, so I position the cams and put the cam stay in between them. Then I clock the crank and oil pump gears one tooth back so when I tension it, it will line up. Next is I tension the auto tensioner with the tensioner rod from jay racing until it touches and pushes the auto tensioner in and I can move the pin in and out. Then, I tension the tensioner pulley so everything lines up using the jay racing bracket tool. By this time, the bracket the tensioner pulley is on can't move, the belt is taught, and the gears all should line up. Finally, I torque down the bolt holding the pulley. Then I make sure the auto tensioner is still able to move the pin in and out, if not, the belt is too tight. If not, back off the rod. I then rotate the motor a few times and make sure it lines up. Lastly, pull the pin and its set.

 

[romeen]

Are you using a 1G or 2G tensioner pivot arm? Have you examined it for wear at the point where the tip of the hydraulic tensioner rod contacts it?

Look through the first post in this tech article for comparison pics.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...l-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

He has to be using a 1g arm, it wouldnt contact if he didnt along with the 2g bracket.

 

[viperlp01]

When I set time I can probably run with out the tensioner(grenade pin in). I have a big screwdriver pushing on the tensioner arm pushing it up until the belt is as tight as I want it to run at. I MAKE sure you push the tensioner arm down onto the tensioner. Check and make sure it is tight then pull the grenade pin. Making sure that tensioner pulley is tight enough is the biggest issue.

 

[nuclearr]

well its ot a ebay balance shaft elimination kit... got it from extreampsi... also i got it redone by the dealer total of 6 times with no extra cost... even they are lost...

Could your Oil pump sprocket shaft be bent?

 

[viperlp01]

That would be very noticeable. He would be leaking a ton of oil out the oil pump shaft seal.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Man that sucks, so many times, ive had problems but never with the timing belt, that often. Let us know what happens.