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Timing skip while engine is turned off...

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Belt was probably too tight. If you park on an incline without the parking brake, the weight of the car can cause the belt to skip.

Lot of people are saying to be able to pull the pin after the tension is set. This is too tight. Clearance is supposed to be .15 to .18, With the pin in the tensioner, you only have clearance of around .138, about 30% tighter than the book calls for.
 
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From VFAQ.com

NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT ALL OF THE TIMING MARKS ARE STILL ALIGNED.
Loosen the tensioner pulley center bolt, attach the special tool and apply 2.7 Nm (24 in. lbs.) torque to pulley (with beam type torque wrench). WITH TORQUE APPLIED TO THE TENSIONER PULLEY, tighten the attaching bolt, then torque to 49 ± 6 Nm (36 ± 4 ft. lbs.).
Measure the auto tensioner push rod position with a drill bit (distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body) to ensure that it falls within the specification of 3.8-4.5 mm (.15-.18 in.).

NOTE: WAIT 15 MINUTES AFTER THE ALLEN WRENCH IS REMOVED FROM AUTO TENSIONER (FOR PLUNGER ROD TO STABILIZE) BEFORE MEASURING.
Remove special tool and install the rubber plug to the inner timing belt cover.
 
Belt was probably too tight. If you park on an incline without the parking brake, the weight of the car can cause the belt to skip.

Lot of people are saying to be able to pull the pin after the tension is set. This is too tight. Clearance is supposed to be .15 to .18, With the pin in the tensioner, you only have clearance of around .138, about 30% tighter than the book calls for.

It isn't too tight to do them like that. I've been doing them like that for a very long time without a single failure. This isn't just on an occasional timing belt on a car i own, this is on many many customer cars over the years. There is also no way that is 30 percent tighter. You would have to know the spring rate, the total length of the spring, and the total compressed length of the spring at .138 and .15. That is in no way able to be calculated by just looking at the difference in how far the plunger is compressed in the tensioner. The difference is around .012 to .042. The range in what is acceptable according to you is .03 difference. According to your 30 percent assumption than the belt could either around 60 percent tighter or looser (because .15 to.18 is around 2x the difference of .138 to .15) depending on whether or not it is at .15 or .18 which clearly isn't right. It is a very very minimal different in tension.
 
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It isn't too tight to do them like that. I've been doing them like that for a very long time without a single failure. This isn't just on an occasional timing belt on a car i own, this is on many many customer cars over the years. There is also no way that is 30 percent tighter. You would have to know the spring rate, the total length of the spring, and the total compressed length of the spring at .138 and .15. That is in no way able to be calculated by just looking at the difference in how far the plunger is compressed in the tensioner. The difference is around .012 to .042. The range in what is acceptable according to you is .03 difference. According to your 30 percent assumption than the belt could either around 60 percent tighter or looser (because .15 to.18 is around 2x the difference of .138 to .15) depending on whether or not it is at .15 or .18 which clearly isn't right. It is a very very minimal different in tension.

With the grenade pin in, the shaft protrudes out of the tensioner by .138. Mitsubishi gives us 3/100ths of an inch variance in the belt tension. Tightening the belt until you can pull the pin means you've added another 100th of an inch on the tension, which is 33% tighter.

Just because your way works without any visible signs of problems doesn't mean it's correct. Did Mitsubishi just throw darts at the board when they came up with their clearance tolerances, or did they have a specific reason for those figures.

When I do an engine I keep everything within the manufactures specifications.

You do your engines the way you want, I won't. I'll also point out incorrect information whenever I notice it.
 
With the grenade pin in, the shaft protrudes out of the tensioner by .138. Mitsubishi gives us 3/100ths of an inch variance in the belt tension. Tightening the belt until you can pull the pin means you've added another 100th of an inch on the tension, which is 33% tighter.

Just because your way works without any visible signs of problems doesn't mean it's correct. Did Mitsubishi just throw darts at the board when they came up with their clearance tolerances, or did they have a specific reason for those figures.

When I do an engine I keep everything within the manufactures specifications.

You do your engines the way you want, I won't. I'll also point out incorrect information whenever I notice it.

It is not 33 percent tighter, as i said you can't gauge that off just by measuring how far the plunger protrudes in one point and the other. By your math the plunger is able to to be looser by 30 percent of the low side of the spec or 30 percent tighter on the high side. You are calculating a percentage of shaft protrusion, not actual tension on the belt. It is such a minimal difference that it in no way makes a difference. You do know that the total travel of the piston and total length of the spring is well further than 1/10 of an inch right. Your assumption is that the total possible travel of the piston is 1/10 and that you know the spring rate. That is the only possible way that you could come up with any kind of a number like that.
 
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