Timing / head replacement

[ROOKIE1]

I recently ordered a head from sbr . Along with timing belt kit , bse , water pump and so on . I have searched , read , searched , read . However I keep reading different ways to do this . When I remove head do I align all timing marks ? Or as some say just cut belt and take off head . Paying a grand for a head to tear it up on install is not something I can afford . I have read vfaq and searched here , but there is not one way it appears . Can I align and turn things with head off without screwing things up . If I just cut belt and pull head , can I align all timing marks with no damage or do I align then pull ? Also I can not seem to find any info on removing or installing cams .

 

[sleek98]

dont cut the belt!!!! you will still have to take all of the stuff off to put a new belt on. get it to tdc before taking the belt off and make sure that the dowel pins are up when reinstalling the cams or there will be bent valves and youll be pissed.


chris

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Line everything up TDC before taking the belt off. Then go ahead and remove your timing belt via unbolting the tensioner pulley (the blue one). This will cause enough slack in the belt to loosen it without having to cut it (even though I cut mine ). Once the head is removed, you can go ahead and replace what you need to replace. Upon needing to reinstall, many have recommended to keep the cams off so that valves are not depressed. I have also found that if your cams are still on, you can rotate the crank to a couple degrees BTDC (this will have all of pistons not at full extension, if you will) and get away with putting the head on and not hitting any valves.

Also, getting your cams off is easy. There are caps holding the cams on with 2 (12mm?) screws on each. They are bronze. Once you take all of these off, the cam should come right off, but be careful not to shuffle your rockers around. When you need to reinstall, put your rockers on and gently place your cams back in position. Then torque to spec.

Also, if you have never done the Tbelt job, do yourself a favor and get the 2 timing tools from www.spxmiller.com so that you don't pull your hair out trying to tension the belt.

 

[BUCK]

I just cut Belt & pull it - What's crucial is what you do at Install - You may find this helpful too.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1542275#post1542275

 

[ROOKIE1]

Upon needing to reinstall, many have recommended to keep the cams off so that valves are not depressed. I have also found that if your cams are still on, you can rotate the crank to a couple degrees BTDC (this will have all of pistons not at full extension, if you will) and get away with putting the head on and not hitting any valves.

As long as do not move anything , the cams should not cause a problem between the valves and pistons right ? If I install exactly as I took apart , I do not see an issue with cams on or off . Or am I off ?

 

[Marc91GSX]

Upon needing to reinstall, many have recommended to keep the cams off so that valves are not depressed. I have also found that if your cams are still on, you can rotate the crank to a couple degrees BTDC (this will have all of pistons not at full extension, if you will) and get away with putting the head on and not hitting any valves.

As long as do not move anything , the cams should not cause a problem between the valves and pistons right ? If I install exactly as I took apart , I do not see an issue with cams on or off . Or am I off ?

If you set your engine at TDC #1 before you install the head then you can install the cams on the head first. Or you can rotate the engine so that all of the pistons are about 4 inches from the top of the block ( safest option ). Last option is to not install the cams until they are on the engine but that makes putting the head on a bi*** (unless you have the intake and exhaust hooked up but then again that is a whole other can of worms there). Just remember that if you have not done this before then read everything you can first then call a friend who has, and go for it.

My method is to set the engine at TDC then rotate the crank counter clockwise until the pistons are all about 4"s from the top. Install the head with cams installed and torque it down. After head is installed rotate the engine clockwise until your mark lines up saying you are at TDC again. Goodluck and if you don't feel confident enough to do it then ask for help.

 

[goalieman24]

Sorry to bring this back...

it seems the general consensus is to set TDC then remove belt. If there are bent valves, would it then be better to just cut the belt? or atleast try and get it to tdc until there was resistance, then just cut it.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

If it is known that the valves are bent ( i.e., Tbelt skips 3-4 teeth ) then you mind as well cut the belt where it is since you'll be replacing then head and retiming it anyway.

 

[Talesin]

If the valves aren't bent and you're just replacing the belt, I'd set it to TDC and then ziptie the cam gears together while you're working on it. One less worry when you're dealing with everything else. Just remember to cut the ziptie when it's time to put the new belt over the gears.

 

[steel_3d]

You can't hurt anything by cutting the belt. Where did this idea come from? Basically all that happens is the cam returns to a relaxed position where all the valves are closed (more or less, since some cams have enough overlap to keep some valves partially open at all times, but you can consider them closed, and there shouldn't be any problems). A valve will never extend beyond where it sits at any crank angle, so as to hit a piston, it can only return to a more closed position. So I don't see why people think you can't cut the belt.

Personally I prefer bringing it to #1 tdc before cutting the belt, so I can mark the CAS and know which way to reinstall it when the time comes.

There's also no reason why you couldn't install the head with the cams in it when the crank is at tdc or at any other angle. If that caused a problem, then how would it help to install the cams later?? Just don't try to turn the cams when the crank is at tdc, because that will obviously jam the valves into the pistons. Just make sure the dowel pins on the cams are facing up before you install the head.

The short of it, as it's been stated before, is that it doesn't matter what you do when removing the tbelt, just that the install is correct.

 

[SiNiST3R]

Hate to bring this back up but I want to be safe than anything,

I have the same problem just about here is what I have.

New head decked and cleaned
ARP studs
Comp 101200s
NEW OEM Timing belt
MLS HG

My problem we pretty much just slid the old timing belt off and pulled the old head.

What need to know is maybe you can point me to the right location or somewhat. Things I need cleared up are how to a Line up the block timing? do I just throw on the new head and line up timing on the bottom ALSO the cams are not in the head yet I figure ill put them in once the head is in to avid the valves hitting pistons ect. I'm just asking for some articles or any thing that could help since my belt was pretty much slid off and installing a new head with 101200s. Thanks guys been reading up allot on this.

 

[steel_3d]

Follow the vfaq. www.vfaq.com

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Or more specifically...

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

 

[SiNiST3R]

Thanks but been over that 100s of times what happends if you dont even have the head on the car?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

If you're not doing the BSEK, set your balance shaft, crank and oil pump sprocket in phase. Then install your head without the cams on. Then Install your cams with the cam sprockets on with both dowels facing at 12 o'clock. Then finish up your timing belt process.

 

[SiNiST3R]

Thanks what i wanted to hear but was unsure