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Timing Belt Tools

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XC92

Proven Member
1,561
356
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
So I ordered all the parts I need to do a complete TB job, i.e. both belts (no BSE for now), 3 pulleys, hydraulic tensioner, water pump, 5 front seals, all OEM except a Gates racing BSB and Aisin WP. But I have some questions about the tools you're supposed to use to do it properly.

There are three I believe, a long M8x1.25 threaded bolt, a 2-pin adapter, and a cam sprocket securing device. Complete sets sell for around $50, individual tools for $15-$20.

I'm wondering how important it is to have these actual tools compared to using "close enough" tools I might already have on hand, since I don't expect to have to do another TB job for years. Seems like a waste of money if it can be avoided and I don't want to have to sell them online when I'm done.

I already bought a 250mm M8x1.25 threaded bolt, for $6. Can I use it as is, if I weld, glue or otherwise secure a nut at one end to install and remove it? Or do I have to grind off some of the threads on the other end, for clearance, and if so how much, in mm?

What about using a set of right angle snap ring pliers instead of the adapter? I'd have to guess the torque, but I think I can manage that as it's not a high number.

And the FSM itself says to use ordinary binder metal clips. I've also heard of people using plastic zip ties. Does either work ok?

It's not so much that I'm cheap (although I am) as that it just seems silly to spend $50 of more for tools I'll use once every 5-10 years for 30-60 minutes.

Oh, and separate but related question. I'll also replace the thermostat and gasket. A while back, before I understood how important it was to get OEM parts for a DSM, I bought a Stant at RockAuto. Is that ok or am I just asking for trouble?

It's this one, from their "Heavy Duty" line:


Oddly, they don't sell an Aisin one.
 
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Cam gear tool is not necessary. Use the binder clips. Yes the rod will work fine. I would grind one end to a cone. The only reason for this is so the threads dont get messed up making it difficult to remove. Snap ring pliers will work but it is not elegant. No matter what you do as long as the protrusion is correct when you're done that's all that matters.
 
The FSM properly explains how to get the protrusion just right?

And how long a cone, 5-10mm ok?

I actually just did the same job on my mom's Camry (twice, actually, as I had to remove everything and reinstall them to replace a leaking freeze plug) and it was pretty easy. Of course that car doesn't have a BS or HT.

Btw and while we're on it, do freeze plugs tend to go bad on DSMs, especially ones these old, and is it good practice to replace them when working on the front of the engine as I'm about to, as preventive maintenance?

I think they're called Sealing Caps in DSMs and I believe that there are 9 of them in total, 4 on forward and rear-facing part of the block and I assume 1 on either the front or rear of the engine.
 
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Not necessary but those it will save you time. The one I’d recommend is the tool for the tensioner pulley. Snap ring pliers might work but the water pump will be in the way as space is limited. You can use zip ties to hold the belt onto the cams.
 
I have a pretty long set, maybe that would work better?

I might also be able to fabricate an adapter out of a piece of wood and some 4 or 6mm bolts and a cutout for the torque wrench anvil.
 
It would have to be thick and dense enough so nothing wiggled and thin enough to fit. I have the new pulley and will give it a shot. I like saving money. :D
 
It would have to be thick and dense enough so nothing wiggled and thin enough to fit. I have the new pulley and will give it a shot. I like saving money. :D
I'm lazy, I bought the tools. Zip ties work on pulleys but if you have binder clips handy I much prefer those. Just try whatever you have handy.
Wood isn't a bad idea as long as there is enough room. I've seen guys make their own tool out of some scrap steel.
 
Steel would be better but I don't have the right fabrication tools. I could probably cut a small piece to size and drill holes, but cutting out the anvil hole would be a challenge. Maybe I could drill a 3/8" hole then file the corners.

In any case, I prefer the DIY path, at least for rarely used tools. I'm still thinking about how to turn my 5-6 ton bottle jack into a small hydraulic press, although it's not as essential now that I've rebuilt my trans (which has been working great btw).
 
Steel would be better but I don't have the right fabrication tools. I could probably cut a small piece to size and drill holes, but cutting out the anvil hole would be a challenge. Maybe I could drill a 3/8" hole then file the corners.

In any case, I prefer the DIY path, at least for rarely used tools. I'm still thinking about how to turn my 5-6 ton bottle jack into a small hydraulic press, although it's not as essential now that I've rebuilt my trans (which has been working great btw).
You don't need an anvil hole. You can put a bolt in it and use the bolt head with a socket.
 
You can easily make about 5 tensioner tools with these items.
M8 Allthread
M8 Coupling Nuts
M8 Hex Nuts

I cut the allthread to about 10" after threading a coupling nut and a hex nut onto the allthread.
Tack weld the coupling nut OR use the hex nut to hold the coupling nut.
I welded mine and I use the hex nut to clean the threads after using the tool.
Easy and cheap, I even sent one to a good friend since it made 5 I think.
Take the allthread to a grinding wheel after the nuts are on it and make a rounded tip.
Viola, you have your own tensioning tool.
Marty

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  • Homemade DSM Timing tensioner tool.docx
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You don't need an anvil hole. You can put a bolt in it and use the bolt head with a socket.
True, but even with a shallow socket there might be clearance issues, based on what I've heard about doing this with the engine in the car. Or is there enough room?
 
True, but even with a shallow socket there might be clearance issues, based on what I've heard about doing this with the engine in the car. Or is there enough room?
The aftermarket ones do it like this. The hex is machined but a bolt head would work. Would need to be screwed in though. Not enough room for a nut on backside.

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True, but even with a shallow socket there might be clearance issues, based on what I've heard about doing this with the engine in the car. Or is there enough room?
Angled box wrench works better.
 
The aftermarket ones do it like this. The hex is machined but a bolt head would work. Would need to be screwed in though. Not enough room for a nut on backside.

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I have a tap & die kit so I could could a thick bolt to size so it wouldn't stick out the other side. But, which way do you turn the tool when securing the pulley, CW or CCW? CCW would turn the bolt and not the tool.

Angled box wrench works better.
But aren't you supposed to use a torque wrench per the FSM?
1g is clockwise. 2g is counter clockwise
If it's CW then I can make a tool using Pauley's design.

You can easily make about 5 tensioner tools with these items.
M8 Allthread
M8 Coupling Nuts
M8 Hex Nuts

I cut the allthread to about 10" after threading a coupling nut and a hex nut onto the allthread.
Tack weld the coupling nut OR use the hex nut to hold the coupling nut.
I welded mine and I use the hex nut to clean the threads after using the tool.
Easy and cheap, I even sent one to a good friend since it made 5 I think.
Take the allthread to a grinding wheel after the nuts are on it and make a rounded tip.
Viola, you have your own tensioning tool.
Marty

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That's basically what I was going to do, except instead of welding I'd just butt 2 nuts against each other and tighten them good.

I assume it wouldn't come apart with the kind of torque being used, and even if it did I could just use pliers to remove it.

As for grinding the tip, how much really needs to be removed and how much would be too much (or too little)?
 
For the tip, you can make it short or long, just round the end of it. After I ground the tip the way I wanted it, I just removed the hex nut to clean the threads then put it back on.
You can use 2 nuts butted up but mine seemed to want to come apart a little easier than I expected so I hit them with my 110V Mig. You could locktite them on also.
 
Making the tensioner pulley wrench doesn't seem cost or time effective unless you in a bind cause you forgot to get one. Just order one off Amazon for less than $20. It's also the only special tool you really need for this job. The sprocket holder is nice but clips of zip ties or even a bolt with two washers and some nuts works fine. The long bolt is largely useless/needless.

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I don't really look at time or money that way, or else I wouldn't cook, clean, shop or do basic maintenance on my car or bike, or garden, etc., as there are more time and money-efficient ways of doing all of these. Sometimes you just want to do it yourself. And I'm not going to spend $20 for a tool that I'll probably only use once in my life as I doubt I'll own my DSM or any other long enough to need it again.
 
I don't think you do. I just don't always agree, or just have a different perspective. Not the same thing. Plus you answered a different question from the one I asked. I was just asking if the tools are essential, not whether it's wiser to get them or not.

And what you view as frustration I view as a cool thing to do. Not the first time I would have fashioned my own tool or the last.

A general rule of thumb is to answer the question asked, not the question you think should have been asked. Of course this is the internet and we're actually all dogs.
 
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