The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Timing Belt Tools

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

XC92

Proven Member
1,561
356
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
So I ordered all the parts I need to do a complete TB job, i.e. both belts (no BSE for now), 3 pulleys, hydraulic tensioner, water pump, 5 front seals, all OEM except a Gates racing BSB and Aisin WP. But I have some questions about the tools you're supposed to use to do it properly.

There are three I believe, a long M8x1.25 threaded bolt, a 2-pin adapter, and a cam sprocket securing device. Complete sets sell for around $50, individual tools for $15-$20.

I'm wondering how important it is to have these actual tools compared to using "close enough" tools I might already have on hand, since I don't expect to have to do another TB job for years. Seems like a waste of money if it can be avoided and I don't want to have to sell them online when I'm done.

I already bought a 250mm M8x1.25 threaded bolt, for $6. Can I use it as is, if I weld, glue or otherwise secure a nut at one end to install and remove it? Or do I have to grind off some of the threads on the other end, for clearance, and if so how much, in mm?

What about using a set of right angle snap ring pliers instead of the adapter? I'd have to guess the torque, but I think I can manage that as it's not a high number.

And the FSM itself says to use ordinary binder metal clips. I've also heard of people using plastic zip ties. Does either work ok?

It's not so much that I'm cheap (although I am) as that it just seems silly to spend $50 of more for tools I'll use once every 5-10 years for 30-60 minutes.

Oh, and separate but related question. I'll also replace the thermostat and gasket. A while back, before I understood how important it was to get OEM parts for a DSM, I bought a Stant at RockAuto. Is that ok or am I just asking for trouble?

It's this one, from their "Heavy Duty" line:


Oddly, they don't sell an Aisin one.
 
Last edited:
I thought I did answer it.
Ok, but then you answered a question I didn't ask, or injected an opinion. Which is fine, of course, even appreciated, but I then responded to it, politely I thought. Disagreeing with someone is not the same thing as being upset with them.

In all the time I've been here I'm pretty sure that I've accepted and followed the advice given by the resident experts here far more than I haven't.

And even when I occasionally didn't, or did but with some initial pushback, I appreciated it and the perspective it offered. The site is by its nature for DIYers, who tend to have an independent streak and like to go their own way.

It's all good, as the youngins like to say. :)
 
If your bolt is long enough to get to the tensioner, then put a nut on it, grind its tip down to a round tip, remove the nut to clean the threads and it should work just fine.
 
The three piece kit is on sale for like $69 from Extreme Psi. Seems like a no brainer to me, I've done them without it but it is easier with them :idontknow:
 
The three piece kit is on sale for like $69 from Extreme Psi. Seems like a no brainer to me, I've done them without it but it is easier with them :idontknow:
If you do this often enough, sure. If you do it once, not so much. $69 is not exactly chump change to most people.
 
Isn't that for the bolt, not the 2 pins?
What I have done is put a socket on the bolt of the tensioner pulley then insert the short leg of the hex key in lower hole and leverage against the socket to get tension on the pulley. I hope that makes sense.
 
What I have done is put a socket on the bolt of the tensioner pulley then insert the short leg of the hex key in lower hole and leverage against the socket to get tension on the pulley. I hope that makes sense.
I see what you mean. But once you get the tension right, how do you lock down the bolt without affecting the tension?
 
I have a tap & die kit so I could could a thick bolt to size so it wouldn't stick out the other side. But, which way do you turn the tool when securing the pulley, CW or CCW? CCW would turn the bolt and not the tool.


But aren't you supposed to use a torque wrench per the FSM?

If it's CW then I can make a tool using Pauley's design.


That's basically what I was going to do, except instead of welding I'd just butt 2 nuts against each other and tighten them good.

I assume it wouldn't come apart with the kind of torque being used, and even if it did I could just use pliers to remove it.

As for grinding the tip, how much really needs to be removed and how much would be too much (or too little)?
For your 6bokt it will be clockwise.

Doesn't matter how just you grind off. It will be obvious when yiu see what the tool does. It just presses up against the tensioner arm. When you back the tool out you don't want the threads messed up.

Yes you are supposed to use a torque wrench but I never did. You get a feel for it and the suggestion to apply enough force to get the pin out is a good one. If it's too tight back it off a little. Too loose tighten it up a little. First time I did one probably took me 5 or 6 tries before I got it. So long as protrusion is right doesn't matter how you got there.
 
I see what you mean. But once you get the tension right, how do you lock down the bolt without affecting the tension?
That’s what the tensioner pulley tool is for. You hold it with the box wrench with your left hand and tighten the bolt with your right hand.
 
After having effectively done 3 TB jobs, admittedly in simpler setups, I'm guessing that it won't be nearly as hard as some make it out to be, just exacting and a bit annoying given how tight it is in there. I'm blocking myself at least half a day, but probably it'll take longer. So long as I get it right. I've been driving the car but only once on the highway and then for just one exit, otherwise on main and side streets no faster than 40 as I don't want to rev it too much till I get this done. And there's no point in owning this car if that's the only sort of driving you do on it.

That’s what the tensioner pulley tool is for. You hold it with the box wrench with your left hand and tighten the bolt with your right hand.
I get that. But with the allen wrench pivoting on the socket that's on the bolt as per the above advice, I don't see how you wouldn't mess up the tension when you lock down the bolt, unless I'm not understanding something.
 
I get that. But with the allen wrench pivoting on the socket that's on the bolt as per the above advice, I don't see how you wouldn't mess up the tension when you lock down the bolt, unless I'm not understanding something.
generally when you are holding the tensioner tool in place the pulley doesn't move when you tighten the bolt down. I do know it can but it's very little if at all.
 
generally when you are holding the tensioner tool in place the pulley doesn't move when you tighten the bolt down. I do know it can but it's very little if at all.
If done using one of the more traditional ways. But pivoting an allen key on the socket seems kind of iffy to me in terms of not rotating the pulley. But perhaps it works better than it sounds.

In any case I'll probably stick to one of the other methods. The rest of the parts should be in by the weekend and I just want to get it done and over with.

Jump to 12:30. This an evo btw

There’s no Allen wrench involved

He uses a ratchet but again you’ll want to use a box wrench.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Thanks for the link but I was referring to this:
 
I'll give it a shot then. One of these methods is sure to do the trick. Worst thing that happens is the timing marks are off and I destroy the engine. No bigee. :p
 
Since I build more of these than alot of people, I have all of the tools mentioned. I like tensioner tool that has 2 spikes and a bolt head on the back. I think @pauleyman may have shown one. The threaded rods are just so easy to make that I did them all at once. I have 3 motors on stands currently with my home built jobs. It isn't hard to time the 4g63 motor but I admit I have done it more than a handful of times so I know it pretty good. The hardest one to do is when its still in the car but even that isn't as hard as some make it out to be so don't think that you can't do this and do it right because you can.
 
Since I build more of these than alot of people, I have all of the tools mentioned. I like tensioner tool that has 2 spikes and a bolt head on the back. I think @pauleyman may have shown one. The threaded rods are just so easy to make that I did them all at once. I have 3 motors on stands currently with my home built jobs. It isn't hard to time the 4g63 motor but I admit I have done it more than a handful of times so I know it pretty good. The hardest one to do is when its still in the car but even that isn't as hard as some make it out to be so don't think that you can't do this and do it right because you can.
Thanks. Couldn't possibly be harder than rebuilding a manual trans properly, and I just did that. Different sort of job, of course, but attention to detail applies to both. So I'm pretty sure I can handle it. And like I wrote, worst case I blow up the engine. :idontknow:
 
Be positive, if you check all the clearances and they are good, it will be just fine. :thumb:
 
I am being positive. That's just humor and levity talking. I think I'll be fine. If I didn't blow up the trans, brakes, suspension or flux capacitor, I should be ok with the TB.
 
Making the tensioner pulley wrench doesn't seem cost or time effective unless you in a bind cause you forgot to get one. Just order one off Amazon for less than $20. It's also the only special tool you really need for this job.
i agree 1000%
i have done alot of mitsubishi timing belts without it, but i wouldn't recommend it. you never get it right the first time and end up having to redo it multiple times.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top