Timing belt kit?

[jab-619]

Does anybody have a link to get a T-belt kit? Thanks

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

www.partznet.com

 

[VRMAN]

www.ongreenperformance.com

Bought all my belts from them, good people.

 

[Mike1992]

ProStreet is having a sale,

4G63 Timing Belt Kit - bshaft belt, timing belt, tensioner pulley, water pump and auto tensioner. Less than $200

 

[Thomas91169]

^^^i just did my 60K maintenance with that kit(the pro street one). i had it installed at a shop i know. they had to buy a "balance shaft tensioner pulley/bearing" also. the labor was like 400, it was gonna be 300 but the guy didnt know i wanted the water pump replaced too.

 

[doodie]

^^^i just did my 60K maintenance with that kit(the pro street one). i had it installed at a shop i know. they had to buy a "balance shaft tensioner pulley/bearing" also. the labor was like 400, it was gonna be 300 but the guy didnt know i wanted the water pump replaced too.

WOW, looks like you got raped up the butt. The experts around here charge $250 and when I went to a local mechanic, I was quoted 280. I'm going to bring it to Gary at Mitsubishi Graveyard (hes a vendor here if you know who he is). He does a great job and is resonable on price and I'm damn sure that I won't have to go back for anything that goes wrong.


BTW, I got my kit from Prostreetonline also. I just haven't had the time to have it put on yet.

 

[14.5 drift]

So you guys replaced the balnce shaft tenioner thingies............? Or does this kit include the balance shaft removal parts in it?

Ive heard removing that shiz frees up lots of hp.

 

[jab-619]

:laugh: Thanks everbody!!! I'll let you know how it works. I LOVE THIS SITE!!

 

[14.5 drift]

So you guys replaced the balnce shaft tenioner thingies............? Or does this kit include the balance shaft removal parts in it?

Ive heard removing that shiz frees up lots of hp.

any one want to comment?

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

balance shaft removal kit is usually something separate. Lots of vendors charge you $45 for the stub shaft, the seal for the front case, and 2 new bearings. Well, my balance shaft removal kit costs about $10. $8 for the stub shaft from friendly dealer, and a $.79 freeze plug from your local autoparts store. You won't find one that fits perfectly, so find one that's about 1/16" too big. Take your dremel/die grinder and grind the outer edge down until you just need to tap it into the hole. Then Jb weld it up and you are good to. Pop out the rear shaft bearing, rotate it and you are done. If you are careful, you can re-use the bearing. No need to buy new ones, they are $10 ea.

 

[boostaddictgsx]

While we are somewhat on the topic, I replaced my timing belt tensioner today, a month after my timing belt(NEVER AGAIN, always do it with the timing belt! I know that now, the hard way). I know the gap between the tensioner and the arm is supposed to be between like.018 inches and .015 inches, so would .012 inches be too tight, or would it eventually come back to the right size? I still have the front of the motor off, so any advice will be taken into great consideration. My motor is a 6 bolt, I think it matters in this case, not sure

 

[Strm Trpr]

While we are somewhat on the topic, I replaced my timing belt tensioner today, a month after my timing belt(NEVER AGAIN, always do it with the timing belt! I know that now, the hard way). I know the gap between the tensioner and the arm is supposed to be between like.018 inches and .015 inches, so would .012 inches be too tight, or would it eventually come back to the right size? I still have the front of the motor off, so any advice will be taken into great consideration. My motor is a 6 bolt, I think it matters in this case, not sure

Dude, I just did my timing belt and everything else, and the VFAQ said that the gap is supposed to be between .150" - .177"......

This is a quote from the VFAQ....
Turn the crankshaft 2 revolutions clockwise so that the timing marks are aligned. After leaving it for 15 minutes, measure the auto tensioner push rod gap with a drill bit (distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body) to ensure that it falls within the specification of 3.8-4.5mm (.150-.177in) as shown in Figure 21.

I know you just said never again, but damn, not sure whats going to happen there, you could damage your oil pump gears cuz of the extra stress you're inducing by having your belt so damn tight.....

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.....

Peace

 

[Strm Trpr]

Oh Yeah, Prostreet Online kits are cheap, but none of the parts say......
are you ready for this..... "Genuine Mitsubishi Parts", I will never buy a knock off brand, and I don't care if they say that the parts are made by the people that makes the parts for Mitsubishi..... Sure you save a few bucks, by not having a Mitsu sticker on your item, but I want the peace of mind that I'm buying a quality Mitsu part that was made in Japan.

I bought every gasket and oil seal necessary for a B-Shaft Removal, T-Belt,
Water Pump, Valve Cover Gasket, Cam Seals, Crank Shaft Seal, Oil Pump Seal
the list goes on and on..... I spent probably about $500 on all parts, cleaners and special tools, did the entire job on my back last weekend, and she purrs like a kitten...... Oh yeah, if you want to say bye bye to lifter tick, do the
following.... Buy a can of CRC Engine Flush, follow directions.... I used 3.5 qts. of Mobil 1 10-30 non-syn oil.... 1 qt of Lucas Oil Treatment, oh yeah and get this.... BUY MITSUBISHI OIL FILTERS..... they are specially designed for our systems.....

This is just an example of the savings I've gotten lately from the Dealer....
Mach V sells Mitsu Oil Filters for like $7 bones, the dealer I get my parts from sold 2 of them to me for $4 each.... Hydraulic Tensioner normally $65 anywhere on the net, I paid $50 bones....
Add up savings like and the fact that the parts say Mitsubishi on them and you've got your T-Belt maintanance covered like a Jimmy Hat.....

 

[Strm Trpr]

Does anybody have a link to get a T-belt kit? Thanks

jab-619 You have a 1g right, These guys have an entire kit www.diamondstarmotorsports.com
All belts and pulleys necessary for the 120k T-Belt interval.
I'd also recommend replacing the water pump, look at their site under
maintenance and you'll see it....
I've also seen that the 1g Crankshaft pulley's can come apart due to old age
and the heat generated by our engines..... take a look at yours.... might be worth it.....

I bet I can beat that price for that kit..... if you want pm me and I can show you how.....

 

[ProStreetOnline]

The important parts of our timing belt kits come with the Mitsubishi branded parts (though they are made by the same company that makes the other parts, just doesn't have the spiffy little Mitsu logo on them). We feel our customers like the piece of mind they get when they see Mitsubishi on the bag for the parts like the tensioner.

We can get you guys any of the parts you'd like, just let us know. We run these OEM Timing Belt Kits on our 600whp AWD Spyder, and 400whp road race Talon (soon we'll have EVO kits as well - for our new rally EVO) and have had zero problems. You guys are in good hands.

Thanks!