Tight Steering Issue?

[ProjectBroke]

Hi guys,

Obviously I'm new here, I'm also new to DSM's, picked one up as my new hobby. 96 Eclipse NT, and it seems to have an issue or two.

Most obnoxious of all is a tight steering problem, it's just oddly tight, not to where it is impossible to steer, but to where it's hard driving with one hand. The car also seems to hunt around and i'm constantly correcting. This makes the hard steering even worse to bare, and to add to the problem, it bump steers. Ill hit a hole and the whole car turns right.

Another thing I have noticed, when braking from over 40 MPH, there is a small shudder in the peddle, and the steering actually gets easier, back to where it should actually, as soon as the shudder stops, I have tough steering again.

I have searched around and have found little help, maybe someone can shed some light on what might be going on?

Thanks.

UPDATE: Jacked the car up, tight steering persits, also may have found my bump steering issue. The right wheel will move slightly right to left, about 1/2 inch when in the air. It seems that where that beam you adjust the alignment on (Tie rod? Can't remember what its called) is moving inside the joint, under the rubber housing. What will I have to do to fix this?

 

[TrevorS]

I was going to say you have a front suspension problem, something bent or such, but it sounds like you found it. The tie rod consists of two components, the outer end that connects to the steering knuckle via a ball joint (which should not have any play in any direction) and the rod itself which threads into the outer end (secured with a lock nut) and at the inside end includes a universal joint (again no play) and threads into the rack and pinion assembly with a locking washer to secure it (the inside end portion is covered with a boot). None of those pieces should move in or out without the steering wheel moving too. So, with the front wheels off the ground and the steering wheel in a locked position, you need to determine through inspection exactly where that wheel play is occurring -- check the other wheel as well.

 

[ProjectBroke]

It's the universal joint, under the boot, that has the play. Any Idea how to go about fixing this?
And that basically covers the bump steering, but any ideas why its so tight?

 

[TrevorS]

It's the universal joint, under the boot, that has the play. Any Idea how to go about fixing this?
And that basically covers the bump steering, but any ideas why its so tight?

If there's looseness in the steering linkage, then your alignment will be unstable and so your front wheels will end up fighting the steering wheel. In this case it sounds like you may be effectively dragging the right front which means it's always battling to turn right. The tire tread should be suffering as well.

The cure is to replace both inner tie rods (if one's gone, the other's probably on its way), and this is probably a good time to inspect the rest of the front suspension as well. Check all ball joints and control arm bushings for any sign of looseness. Chances are the tie rod outer ends should also be replaced.

One thing, inspect the boots at both ends of the tie rod. Any that are cracked can allow dirt in to cause accelerated wear. For that matter, it probably wouldn't hurt to inspect your half axle boots as well (particularly behind the hubs) -- any splits or tears mean trouble.

PS. If you don't have the Hayne's or Chilton's manual for your car, pick one up.

 

[russ96gst]

glad to be out of that town^^

 

[ProjectBroke]

If there's looseness in the steering linkage, then your alignment will be unstable and so your front wheels will end up fighting the steering wheel. In this case it sounds like you may be effectively dragging the right front which means it's always battling to turn right. The tire tread should be suffering as well.

The cure is to replace both inner tie rods (if one's gone, the other's probably on its way), and this is probably a good time to inspect the rest of the front suspension as well. Check all ball joints and control arm bushings for any sign of looseness. Chances are the tie rod outer ends should also be replaced.

One thing, inspect the boots at both ends of the tie rod. Any that are cracked can allow dirt in to cause accelerated wear. For that matter, it probably wouldn't hurt to inspect your half axle boots as well (particularly behind the hubs) -- any splits mean trouble.

Well the boot on the loose side is half missing, so that's probably why it's loose, Just got worn out. I'll get it replaced.

But none of that has to do with the steering issue, if my front wheels are in the air, car running and turning the wheel, the steering is the same as when driving. So the tie rod problem isn't helping, but it's not the reason I can't turn the wheel easy.
'
Also, thank you for the help.

 

[TrevorS]

You're welcome ! If you have power steering, make sure the reservoir fluid is within the normal range (preferably at the full mark). If the level is normal, then given the steering remains over-tight with both wheels off the ground, any idea how long you've been experiencing this tight steering issue? Did anything occur shortly before you first noticed it?

 

[ProjectBroke]

You're welcome ! If you have power steering, make sure the reservoir fluid is within the normal range (preferably at the full mark). If the level is normal, then given the steering remains over-tight with both wheels off the ground, any idea how long you've been experiencing this tight steering issue? Did anything occur shortly before you first noticed it?

Fluid is full, belt is tight, no leaks. I bought the car like this so I have no idea if something could have caused it. Starting to wonder if the pump doesn't work like it should. Or something in the steering column is binding up.

 

[TrevorS]

It does sound like either there's a problem with the power steering mechanism (pump or at the rack & pinion) or else something is indeed binding. Worst case binding scenario is probably if the rack & pinion was damaged at some point (bent rack for example). Steering columns have universal joints, but their problem is usually looseness over time. I expect you have some free play at the steering wheel before it begins to turn the front wheels (I think spec is about 1/2"), so you could try inspecting the base of the column shaft (just above the pinion) to see if it turns easily with the steering wheel before you feel the tightness (you could try with different front wheel angles) -- if so, it points to further down. If you feel excessive tightness even when traveling at 25mph or more (where manual steering normally feels fine), it seems less likely it's a power steering issue and more likely it's the rack & pinion itself.

PS. Given that right inner tie rod boot has probably been torn a long time, the tightness could be due to moisture getting into the right side of the rack and pinion housing and causing corrosion. That'll go hand-in-hand with loss of the lubricant the rack glides on in the housing. Any splits or tears in any of the boots are a serious concern.

 

[ProjectBroke]

Steering stays the same no matter how fast I go, UNLESS I'm on the brakes over 40MPH, there is some kind of shudder (I'm assuming pads are uneven) and the steering becomes normal, once the shudder stops, steering is tight again. Makes no sense, but something that shudder does makes it normal. Could be corrosion as well. Eh, maybe I'll wait till next paycheck and take it to a shop.

I really appreciate the help, wish I could find someone who also had this problem.

 

[TrevorS]

The shudder relaxing the tightness isn't that surprising since the wheels themselves are shoving the rack back and forth -- a lot of force. Either rotor warp or pad material unevenly transferred to the rotor surfaces (effects resistance) will cause brake shudder. Steering looseness also contributes to that. I really think it would be a good idea to inspect the entire front suspension and steering mechanism for looseness as well as all the boots for splits and tears -- plus, sounds like the brakes should be inspected as well. Also, the purpose of the inner tie rod boot is not only to protect the universal, it's also to protect the rack -- if it's been torn long enough for the universal to seriously decay, there's real risk to the rack .

In any case, best of luck with it !