throttle body

[Vdubzr32]

Having a problem with the throttle body. I adjusted the tps to read .63v. When I push the throttle all the way down I get 95% throttle at 4.84v.

I also do the throttle body adjustment as per ecmlink using the throttleraw reading and equation. Still only 95-96% WOT..

When I finally test it on a third gear pull WOT is 88% open.

What can be the problem here. Bad throttle body?

 

[Arthris]

There any slack in your cable? Too much slack will cause the throttle to not open all way when your wot.

 

[Vdubzr32]

There any slack in your cable? Too much slack will cause the throttle to not open all way when your wot.

No slack... even at the throttle body if I open it manually only give 95%. Shouldnt it show 100% open when manually opened?

 

[Vdubzr32]

Any one can give any input on this I only get 90% or so 4.85v. With pedal to the floor. I've check throttle cable its good with no slack. I'm using link and have the tps at .63v. What can cause not getting 100%.

I change my tps and checked it and I know that's not the problem.

Lmk thanks in advance

 

[boost97gst]

Isnt there an ISC "offset" or something like that, calibration? I had a similiar problem and remember vaguely not being able to set it at exactly .63 to get it to work right. It was a very simple cal.
If that doesnt work then maybe opening it completely and then rotating isc till 100 is displayed would work. These are just "tricks" you could try. The goal is to get a linear 0 -100 increase. The software is there to help you do that by the offset/gain cal or whatever its called.....been a long long time since ive done it.

 

[snowborder714]

Have you done this? If not, do it. Should fix your issue.
v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[97_4g63t]

http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/initialsetup.html

Tps adjustment needs done. Post a log too

snowboarder beat me to it

 

[Vdubzr32]

Ive done that but will go over it again maybe I missed something thanks ill post a log when I do my adjustments

 

[Vdubzr32]

I will continue to post on my thread in order to avoid a new thread open.

I'm having an issue with my 1g 63 mm throttle body. I purchased it from throttlebodys.com.The car idles fine at .63v. No vacumm leaks, and I took off the cruis control and install a non-cruise TB cable. The cables has suffient slack on it and its not sticking or getting hung up. When I rev the car the throttle body get hung up on .67v as the throttle body closes. I force it closed and it goes back to .63v. If I leave it alone it takes afew seconds before the throttle body actually fully closs it on it own.


The 1g TB has a little screw thingy where the throttle body stops at when fully closed can I back that up some to achieve full closer, but would it also read less voltage when fully closed? will I need to readjust on ecmlink.

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TPS is new working order all test pass
IAC oem new pass all testing
vacumm lines on TB sealed off
TB adjust screw new seal and cap

any ideas lmk.

 

[steve]

Sounds like your throttle spring might be weak here or something is binding. I'd talk to [email protected] about it since you bought the rebuild from him.

The IPS on a 1G TB is also the butterfly stop screw and a critical adjustment to avoid idle issues.
It keeps the butterfly from binding in the TB bore but misadjusted it will cause air to leak past and raise your idle speed.

The electrical functions are secondary to the mechanical here.

The IPS must close at the right point and the factory manual cautions you not to touch it. The factory spec listed is 15/16ths of a turn after the IPS first electrically closes but assumes a good, off the production line, TB. Depending on how the butterfly sits in the bore without the IPS, where the IPS first makes contact and how much the additional IPS adjustment opens the throttle.

Electrically things are simple. The ECU needs to know when the throttle is closed. That's what the IPS is for. The ECU needs relative positioning data, that's what the TPS is for. The factory ECU doesn't care if the TPS voltage at WOT is 5v, what matters is that the TB butterfly is wide open at WOT. The factory TPS spec on a 1G is the voltage at idle with the throttle closed (0.5v +- 0.02v) There isn't a spec for WOT.

Tom and Dave @ ECMTuning suggest using a slightly higher TPS voltage at idle than factory and have added additional code that does check for the throttle being at WOT during starting to cut off the injectors but I believe that's one reason why they have the TPS adjustments so you can scale the output. It permits you to account for different types of TPS's and for the variation the OEM parts have.

 

[Vdubzr32]

Sounds like your throttle spring might be weak here or something is binding. I'd talk to [email protected] about it since you bought the rebuild from him.

The IPS on a 1G TB is also the butterfly stop screw and a critical adjustment to avoid idle issues.
It keeps the butterfly from binding in the TB bore but misadjusted it will cause air to leak past and raise your idle speed.

The electrical functions are secondary to the mechanical here.

The IPS must close at the right point and the factory manual cautions you not to touch it. The factory spec listed is 15/16ths of a turn after the IPS first electrically closes but assumes a good, off the production line, TB. Depending on how the butterfly sits in the bore without the IPS, where the IPS first makes contact and how much the additional IPS adjustment opens the throttle.

Electrically things are simple. The ECU needs to know when the throttle is closed. That's what the IPS is for. The ECU needs relative positioning data, that's what the TPS is for. The factory ECU doesn't care if the TPS voltage at WOT is 5v, what matters is that the TB butterfly is wide open at WOT. The factory TPS spec on a 1G is the voltage at idle with the throttle closed (0.5v +- 0.02v) There isn't a spec for WOT.

Tom and Dave @ ECMTuning suggest using a slightly higher TPS voltage at idle than factory and have added additional code that does check for the throttle being at WOT during starting to cut off the injectors but I believe that's one reason why they have the TPS adjustments so you can scale the output. It permits you to account for different types of TPS's and for the variation the OEM parts have.

Thanks for the info. I will contact Dave. And won't touch the IPS.

 

[Nate355RS]

The throttle blade should snap shut immediately. If it's not happening, try to loosen the nut under the TPS. If that nut is just a hair too tight it'll cause the tb to slow close instead of snapping shut. Should be a simple check, and would cause a lot of the problems you described.

 

[YUPOK]

I'm having a similar issue with mine and since we live near each other and the temperature just tanked finally, I'm finding that the 1G Idle Switch (throttle adjust screw as shown in your picture) is causing an offset to the true 0% position. In other words the stupid spring on the throttle adjust screw is pushing the blade off it's 0 point.

I confirmed this by simply installing a second return spring, it fixed the problem.
Next I'm going to try and get a regular adjuster screw in place of that switch screw and maybe tighten up the return spring on the throttle body to help it snap shut and pull the second return spring back off.

I have noticed with this and other DSM's with the 1G TB it has an offset especially when cold because of that silly idle switch on the adjuster screw.

 

[Vdubzr32]

I'm having a similar issue with mine and since we live near each other and the temperature just tanked finally, I'm finding that the 1G Idle Switch (throttle adjust screw as shown in your picture) is causing an offset to the true 0% position. In other words the stupid spring on the throttle adjust screw is pushing the blade off it's 0 point.

I confirmed this by simply installing a second return spring, it fixed the problem.
Next I'm going to try and get a regular adjuster screw in place of that switch screw and maybe tighten up the return spring on the throttle body to help it snap shut and pull the second return spring back off.

I have noticed with this and other DSM's with the 1G TB it has an offset especially when cold because of that silly idle switch on the adjuster screw.

I was thinking about doing a second spring where about are you? Send me a pic of the second spring.

 

[Vdubzr32]

The throttle blade should snap shut immediately. If it's not happening, try to loosen the nut under the TPS. If that nut is just a hair too tight it'll cause the tb to slow close instead of snapping shut. Should be a simple check, and would cause a lot of the problems you described.

You know what I did tighten the crap out of the bottom screw on the tps because I didn't want it to move but I'll loosen it and go from there thanks for the advice.

 

[Nate355RS]

This is the nut I'm talking about right in the middle under the TPS. If you torqued it down I guarantee that's a large part of the problems you're getting. If your throttle is slow closing, and the blade isn't contacting the TB walls, loosening this nut will fix that.

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[Vdubzr32]

This is the nut I'm talking about right in the middle under the TPS. If you torqued it down I guarantee that's a large part of the problems you're getting. If your throttle is slow closing, and the blade isn't contacting the TB walls, loosening this nut will fix that.

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Oh that but no I have never touched that nut the way I got it from for Throttlebodies.com is the way it's been.

 

[Nate355RS]

I haven't dealt with throttlebodies.com, but I got mine rebuilt by the guy on DSMTalk who has probably rebuilt hundreds. I was getting a similar problem to what you're describing and he told me to loosen that nut and it fixed it. It's easy for someone to give it an extra half turn and cause problems.

 

[Vdubzr32]

I haven't dealt with throttlebodies.com, but I got mine rebuilt by the guy on DSMTalk who has probably rebuilt hundreds. I was getting a similar problem to what you're describing and he told me to loosen that nut and it fixed it. It's easy for someone to give it an extra half turn and cause problems.

I hear that I'll give it a try...human make errors thanks for responding appreciate the help

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If both springs were not wound back on the TB with the correct amount of turns it will not snap shut. Also what Nate says is correct, if that nut is too tight even slightly it will bind the TB plate. You should use the TB offset calibration in ECMLink to correct your idle setting and also your WOT setting. Mine are offset on both the idle and the WOT and it works great. When I rebuild TB's, I always make sure not to over tighten that nut and test and retest to make sure it doesn't bind it. A dab of RTV on the threads will hold it in place, just smear a small amount on the end of the nut and shaft once it is confirmed that it is not too tight and it will hold it in place. I used to work for Cobalt Boats and we put RTV on every nut, bolt and screw's threads so they wouldn't vibrate apart as boats are very prone to vibrations and the same is true for our DSM's.