The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

throttle body elbow bolt missing???

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dr DSM

10+ Year Contributor
105
0
Jan 9, 2011
Kettering, Ohio
I dont know what this is or what goes there. Its hard explain so i took some picture. you cant tell in the pictures but the threads are still good
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
If you can find a bolt that threads that might be the best looking option..Make sure to put some sealent on it to make sure it doesn't leak..

I would just go jb weld..Cause I have more jb weld then botls..LOL
 
That sir looks like the culprit of a massive boost leak...and you've found it, congrats:thumb:


Seriously though, yes JB weld, or i'd personally recommend quick steel, be sure to put some one the inside too though and make it smooth and flat as possible, putting it just on the outside it may blow off under boost.
 
Ok. The threads were partially striped so i was going to retap it but jb weld/quick steel would be a whole lot easier. Which do you prefer, jbweld or quick steel. I dont know the difference
 
Just put a fitting in it, that way later on if you want a boost source for a gauge or something you already have one ready to go.
 
If you are using it for just a gauge then it's really not that big of an issue. Personally, I have no problem with a gauge being tapped in on the elbow.

Oh, and yeah, I suppose your wastegate isn't boost related, is it?
 
I looks like the stock 2g elbow, its thick enough where you should tap it for a fitting. It will ensure a solid fit, while the tappered thread create seal, also thread sealant should be applied as a safe measure.

The hole looks about 1/8 npt, its pretty standard size, but if it was tapped for a AIT, it might be 3/8 big, either way it doesn't appear that the hole was tapped. that sounded dirty......

If you are using it for just a gauge then it's really not that big of an issue. Personally, I have no problem with a gauge being tapped in on the elbow.

Oh, and yeah, I suppose your wastegate isn't boost related, is it?

A boost gauge would be doing only half it job, reading boost. What about the correct vacuum, I feel like vacuum is almost if not just as important as a wideband, its an indication of proper engine function.

as a boost source, closest possible to the source is preferred.
 
I looks like the stock 2g elbow, its thick enough where you should tap it for a fitting. It will ensure a solid fit, while the tappered thread create seal, also thread sealant should be applied as a safe measure.

The hole looks about 1/8 npt, its pretty standard size, but if it was tapped for a AIT, it might be 3/8 big, either way it doesn't appear that the hole was tapped. that sounded dirty......



A boost gauge would be doing only half it job, reading boost. What about the correct vacuum, I feel like vacuum is almost if not just as important as a wideband, its an indication of proper engine function.as a boost source, closest possible to the source is preferred.

I agree with that.
 
Quik steel is made by the same people as jb-weld either will do fine.

Honestly I would just thread a barbed fitting in there for a boost/vac source.

Air compresses, having a boost source that far up the piping is not ideal.
Vacuum would be distorted due to the throttle plate (read my post)

Either way you are going to need to thread the hole. I would then use a mating threaded plug to seal it up. This will ensure a seal, no boost leak.

Think of RTV as a replacement for some gaskets(not suitable for headgaskets, exhaust manifold/piping). I would not use a gasket to plug a hole, so I would not use RTV to do the same. If its RTV with a combination of a plug, maybe then, just to make sure it seals.
 
ok do you think jb weld will hold since i'm running 24 lbs of boost? should I use quick steel or rtv instead? I've never messed with any of this stuff.

quick steel is easier to apply/mold being a solid and not liquid before it cures, and its not hard to guess amounts, i perfer it thats why i use it and you wont need rtv.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top