bastarddsm
20+ Year Contributor
- 5,761
- 1,690
- Aug 26, 2003
-
Mendota,
Illinois
also what color is you car? is that a factory color?
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Awesome! Ive been struggling tryin to decide whether to build my 2.0 or go stroker for my bw s368 build. Thanks for the info. Btw what are u reving yours out to?The paint is factory, only the engine bay and the interior along with the cage has been done. It will be getting a fresh coat this winter however. And yes it is still a 2.0L, you gotta love those revs
The tires are Hoosier Quick Time Pro's with Rota Slipstream Wheels. To the best of my knowledge the tires are street legal. As far as the shoot out. No, I dont think Ill be able to swing that trip. I would love to but I dont think that is a possibility.
Awesome car man. Could you talk a little about your liquid to air set up? Did you purchase it, pice it together or fab it? What size water tank are you using? What size and type of heat exchanger are you running? Thanks a lot. Keep up the great work.
Last season I picked up .7 sec in the 1/4 (from 10.78 to 10.09) and over 10mph by going from a air to air, to the air to water.


No other changes? If not, I know what I'm doing when my Buschur street core becomes a problem.The Air to Water setup is qutie simple really. You need the core, water tank, pump, feed and return lines, and a heat exchanger if you want to daily the car. As far as mine goes, it is a PWR core, with a good sized water pump, and the feed and return lines. No heat exchanger due to the fact the car will not be daily driven. And thats it. Befor every pass we fill the water tank (1 gal. fuel cel) with ice, and drain it after the pass. Last season I picked up .7 sec in the 1/4 (from 10.78 to 10.09) and over 10mph by going from a air to air, to the air to water. There is nothing better for cooling a forced induction cars intake temps then the air to water.
If you or Reid decide to sell another liquid to air in the future to a customer/street car, I still have the a custom made heat exchanger that originally went with your intercooler. Will fit 1G's and 2G's nicely as well as GVR4's. I have no use for it now. Plus its alot bigger than what PWR sells in there kits.No other changes? If not, I know what I'm doing when my Buschur street core becomes a problem.

wOOt 2 days till import battle
What method was used to polish the manifold? Looks amazing! Great build!
The Air to Water setup is qutie simple really. You need the core, water tank, pump, feed and return lines, and a heat exchanger if you want to daily the car. As far as mine goes, it is a PWR core, with a good sized water pump, and the feed and return lines. No heat exchanger due to the fact the car will not be daily driven. And thats it. Befor every pass we fill the water tank (1 gal. fuel cel) with ice, and drain it after the pass. Last season I picked up .7 sec in the 1/4 (from 10.78 to 10.09) and over 10mph by going from a air to air, to the air to water. There is nothing better for cooling a forced induction cars intake temps then the air to water.