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The Sexy Grandma 15 day build

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You have to pay to play. I bet Alex has quite a bit more money tied up into this car than you would think and I am sure he has done the buy and replace thing as most of us have as well.

IIRC it is a 2.0l and I am pretty sure the car has been repainted.
 
The paint is factory, only the engine bay and the interior along with the cage has been done. It will be getting a fresh coat this winter however. And yes it is still a 2.0L, you gotta love those revs
 
The paint is factory, only the engine bay and the interior along with the cage has been done. It will be getting a fresh coat this winter however. And yes it is still a 2.0L, you gotta love those revs
Awesome! Ive been struggling tryin to decide whether to build my 2.0 or go stroker for my bw s368 build. Thanks for the info. Btw what are u reving yours out to?
-wes
 
I had a stroker with a T-67 and it spooled fine. Spooled about like a 20g-50 trim would. Took that same turbo and put it on a 2.0 liter and holy crap it sucked. When cruising, I'd punch it and then wait and wait and wait and then it'd hit but I'd have to shift gears. Once I shifted it was fine but boy did it suck on the street when cruising. For now on, it's either 20g-50g turbos on a 2.0 and big turbos on stroker motors only. Had a buddy of mine who wanted to buy my T-67. Told him it took forever to spool but he wanted it anyway. Shortly afterwards, he ended up selling it. Lol. I knew he would. The small turbos are a lotta fun on the street for me.

Track "only" car would be different of course.
 
That is one of the most badass dsm's ive ever seen. I bet that guy on the busa wasnt to happy haha. I was just curious on what wheel and tire set up your running? i know they're hoosiers but they look like they have 2 grooves in them so are they the street legal ones or just regular slicks? Thnks
 
The tires are Hoosier Quick Time Pro's with Rota Slipstream Wheels. To the best of my knowledge the tires are street legal. As far as the shoot out. No, I dont think Ill be able to swing that trip. I would love to but I dont think that is a possibility.
 
The tires are Hoosier Quick Time Pro's with Rota Slipstream Wheels. To the best of my knowledge the tires are street legal. As far as the shoot out. No, I dont think Ill be able to swing that trip. I would love to but I dont think that is a possibility.

yea i love how the rota slips look on the 1g's. but what size are your wheels and tires?
love the car!!!
 
Awesome car man. Could you talk a little about your liquid to air set up? Did you purchase it, pice it together or fab it? What size water tank are you using? What size and type of heat exchanger are you running? Thanks a lot. Keep up the great work.
 
Awesome car man. Could you talk a little about your liquid to air set up? Did you purchase it, pice it together or fab it? What size water tank are you using? What size and type of heat exchanger are you running? Thanks a lot. Keep up the great work.

The Air to Water setup is qutie simple really. You need the core, water tank, pump, feed and return lines, and a heat exchanger if you want to daily the car. As far as mine goes, it is a PWR core, with a good sized water pump, and the feed and return lines. No heat exchanger due to the fact the car will not be daily driven. And thats it. Befor every pass we fill the water tank (1 gal. fuel cel) with ice, and drain it after the pass. Last season I picked up .7 sec in the 1/4 (from 10.78 to 10.09) and over 10mph by going from a air to air, to the air to water. There is nothing better for cooling a forced induction cars intake temps then the air to water.
 
Last season I picked up .7 sec in the 1/4 (from 10.78 to 10.09) and over 10mph by going from a air to air, to the air to water.

OMGOMGOMG No other changes? If not, I know what I'm doing when my Buschur street core becomes a problem.
 
The Air to Water setup is qutie simple really. You need the core, water tank, pump, feed and return lines, and a heat exchanger if you want to daily the car. As far as mine goes, it is a PWR core, with a good sized water pump, and the feed and return lines. No heat exchanger due to the fact the car will not be daily driven. And thats it. Befor every pass we fill the water tank (1 gal. fuel cel) with ice, and drain it after the pass. Last season I picked up .7 sec in the 1/4 (from 10.78 to 10.09) and over 10mph by going from a air to air, to the air to water. There is nothing better for cooling a forced induction cars intake temps then the air to water.

Nice intercooler. :sneaky: If you or Reid decide to sell another liquid to air in the future to a customer/street car, I still have the a custom made heat exchanger that originally went with your intercooler. Will fit 1G's and 2G's nicely as well as GVR4's. I have no use for it now. Plus its alot bigger than what PWR sells in there kits.
 
wOOt 2 days till import battle:)
 
Holly shit a water to air is that much better than air to air. I'm def getting a setup like that then since my car will see only weekend driving. I saw a air to water setup with heat exchanger on ebay for like 450 I was like why would anyone go threw all that instead of air to air now I know.:thumb:
 
What method was used to polish the manifold? Looks amazing! Great build!

The polishing was a HUGE pain in the ass, but the way I did it was starting off on a scotch brite wheel on the individual runners, then 400 grit wet sand paper to get out as many big imperfections as possible, then 800 grit to get out the scratches the 400 left then 1000 grit to get out those scratches, then 1200 grit (now you can see a little shine) and last, 1600 grit wet sand paper to give it a better shine. The runners were fused and polished one by one then welded to give them the discoloration between the welds. Finally polished on the polishing wheel. Then like 1,000,000 hours later... you get a one off polished KAIZENSPEED front mount manifold.
 
The Air to Water setup is qutie simple really. You need the core, water tank, pump, feed and return lines, and a heat exchanger if you want to daily the car. As far as mine goes, it is a PWR core, with a good sized water pump, and the feed and return lines. No heat exchanger due to the fact the car will not be daily driven. And thats it. Befor every pass we fill the water tank (1 gal. fuel cel) with ice, and drain it after the pass. Last season I picked up .7 sec in the 1/4 (from 10.78 to 10.09) and over 10mph by going from a air to air, to the air to water. There is nothing better for cooling a forced induction cars intake temps then the air to water.

I agree with you on the benefits of liquid to air for drag racing, but as far as getting a heat exchanger for daily driving, this cannot be more efficent than a similar air to air intercooler. The air is cooling the coolant, which cools the air in the intake charge. You are effectively going through two heat exchange processes rather than one, and since neither will be 100% efficent, you will have twice the efficentcy loss as a standard air to air intercooler.

You have an amazing build though and I can't wait to see the times you put down. Hopefully your willing to make the trip to sac raceway sometime in the future so I can come and watch.
 
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