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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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1000 AAQ - Terms

Crankwalk is a tough thing. When driving the car, you can generally tell because it feels like the clutch isn't fully disengaging, especially in left hand turns. The only real way to check is have a knowledgeable mechanic pull the oil pan and check the crank play. The only fix is a six bolt swap. The only good news if you have crankwalk is that it gives you an excuse to build a new motor. Good luck with the buy, the GSX is an awesome car.

Ok so is it in the block? and a 6 bolt swap is that the full engine or just the block? i dont know that much about the turbo eclipses as u can see.. so when i make left hand turns the clutch would sometimes be fully pressed in?
 
Ok so is it in the block? and a 6 bolt swap is that the full engine or just the block? i dont know that much about the turbo eclipses as u can see.. so when i make left hand turns the clutch would sometimes be fully pressed in?

Crankwalk deals with the crank. That is the main part of the block (it rotates and moves the rods up and down).

A 6 bolt swap deals with putting in a different block (or just the bottom end). You can use either head (1g or 2g) when you do the swap.

And yes, one common sign that your car is going to crankwalk is that when you make a left hand turn, the clutch drops to the floor without being touched.
 
if you got the $... pick it up and save more $ for a 6bolt swap. then your golden. make sure its not all f*ck'd up tho.

but if its just boost you want... ever think about boosting your 420A? im sure you can piece together a kit for less than $3500. EASY! just ask some of the members who T'd thier GS's...

whew so many problems with my 420a... timing belt broke on freeway messed up the head...replaced that..find out the block was messed up 2...replaced that...and i just replaced the transmission the other day..my 420a has been a headache if i could boost it i might be afraid of breaking more stuff..
 
Crankwalk deals with the crank. That is the main part of the block (it rotates and moves the rods up and down).

A 6 bolt swap deals with putting in a different block (or just the bottom end). You can use either head (1g or 2g) when you do the swap.

And yes, one common sign that your car is going to crankwalk is that when you make a left hand turn, the clutch drops to the floor without being touched.

so imma test drive the :shhh: outta the car making left hand turns and listening for wierd ticking noises from the timing belt area...and consider doing a rebuilt 6bolt block
 
so imma test drive the :shhh: outta the car making left hand turns and listening for wierd ticking noises from the timing belt area...and consider doing a rebuilt 6bolt block

I would suggest looking at the link I posted in post #4. That stuff is more important (and probably much more likely) than crankwalk. I personally wouldn't worry about crankwalk at all right now.

And as for the 6 bolt swap, don't even think about that now. You're getting way ahead of yourself. Just worry about looking over the car really good. Do a compression test. Drive it. If you like it and want it, buy it. THEN, once you get it, if you really don't feel safe with a 7 bolt, then you can do a 6 bolt. But there are people making over 400whp on a stock 7 bolt. So I'm not sure why you're so worried about crankwalk.
 
I would suggest looking at the link I posted in post #4. That stuff is more important (and probably much more likely) than crankwalk. I personally wouldn't worry about crankwalk at all right now.

And as for the 6 bolt swap, don't even think about that now. You're getting way ahead of yourself. Just worry about looking over the car really good. Do a compression test. Drive it. If you like it and want it, buy it. THEN, once you get it, if you really don't feel safe with a 7 bolt, then you can do a 6 bolt. But there are people making over 400whp on a stock 7 bolt. So I'm not sure why you're so worried about crankwalk.

i wasnt really worried about it i just dont want no1 2 get ova me..u know what if it crankwalk on them then they wanna sell it 2 me
 
it wouldnt hurt to check out the usual service items as well its usually a good sign if the car has been taken care of or abused...things to check, plugs, filters, wires belts, timing belt ect.
 
I agree that crankwalk is probably the least of your concerns... and I had a motor that walked! The link I supplied in my first post is part of a much larger site:

1000 Already Answered Questions - Index page

This site along with www.vfaq.com are the sites to go to if you're just getting into the 4G63 cars (that would be the engines on the turbo cars in case you were wondering). They have tons of information for you. Find an hour or two and just surf through those sites. You'll learn a lot more than you could asking questions here for the next few months. The basic questions are all answered there in great detail. If you are able to, take the car to a mechanic that you trust and have him look over the entire thing.
 
Be sure to check the strut towers for rust as well! That is another semi common problems on 2g DSMs! Good luck with the test drive!:thumb:
 
WOW 16 wheels and tires, i wonder if that's 4 complete sets or 8 rims and 8 tires. Sounds like there's a lot there, but his english isn't the best so i'd take a good look at it in person to make sure his description is accurate. But for 1500 bucks as long as everything seems kosher i'd jump on it. I'd like to know how he stripped out the holes for the bellhousing to block.
 
Well, I have a 1994 Eclipse GSX. It was blue booked out at about $3900 back in November 2006 when I bought it and I got it for $3000. It was bone stock minus a new clutch and Walbro 255 fuel pump.

You just have to look around and wait for a good deal. If you can find one that is in good shape, preferably bone stock or close, and has decent miles for $3k or under, you are doing pretty good.

Just for kicks, I have a friend on another board that just bought an Evo IX and is possibly looking to sell his black 93 GSX that traps 138+mph in the 1/4 mile and is easily capable of 10s... :p
 
The engine and tranny are out of the car because the holes where you bolt the tranny to the engine are bad they need to be retreaded.
i have a problem on my engine thats similar. but mine is only one hole (the one by the slave) the problem is when my mechanic was doing an engine swap, somehow the little piece with the tranny to engine bolt up broke off.. then he fabricated this thread into the bottom motor mount.and now THAT is starting to strip and it is currently non-drivable:(.. plus the hole on top of the tranny for the mount is stripped too.. who do i go to for re threading
 
Havent you guys ever heard of heli-coils. I'm sure your mechanic has. And if it is going into aluminum it is actually better for removall and reinstall time and time again. But I am a machinist so it is easy and I have access to the heli-coil taps(special size, not m.m. or standard) and anything you could think of, tools,machines,welders,press, and we have a lift. We do a frame up project every few years on the bosses collection. :D Good luck.
 
As far as having to put something together when it is apart can be a nightmare. So, if I knew nothing about it..... I would really need to see the car and see how far it is apart.


93clips: Go to the Napa story or something they should help you out with either a bigger tap or a helicoil kit, make sure you bring the bolt so, they can give you a next size one. Sorry to hear.
 
Ok some I'm doing the daily search on all the auto websites and somehow craiglist slipped my mind for a while. I searched TSI AWD and came up with this listing listed below. The car is located in Pittsburgh, not too far from me. I sent him an e-mail on the 12th of December and still havent gotten a response. Heck, he may just check his e-mail once a week but I usually check mine at least 3 times a day so go figure. It seems this listing is too good to be true becasue of the low milage and low price but if you look closely at the picture on the right you can see part of the camera the ebay photos have. Does this look legit? Here is the link to the ad itself with pictures.

1995 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

"1995 Eagle Talon TSI AWD - $4800
Reply to: [email protected]
Date: 2007-11-18, 1:04PM EST

95 Talon TSI AWD, inspected 09/08, new tires, new front and back brakes and rotors. Battery less than one year old and timing belt changed a month ago. Clean PA title. Only 74,506 miles!!! Car has been in my garage for the last 4 days. I am driving my Jeep Wrangler right now and that is the only reason.

Email for more info"
 
I bought my 95 tsi auto fwd had bad idle surge needs motor mounts timing belt tires new wiper setup 139k with 17 rims shitty paint but no rust interior needs alot of work 2 exhaust leaks needs full tuneup and new valve cover and the tranny acts up Now is it worth $2000
 
sure depending on the buyer.

wipers - $20.
motor mounts- if cash is the problem, home depot it up. theres a thread for home made urethene motor mounts. $20 tops.

go junkyard/Ebay shopping for interior parts and valve covers. pick up a hyundia one if needed. if you dont like the looks, grind off the letters and paint/polish it.

maybe getting the car primed black, or try one of those $50 paint jobs. could come out better than you think. has to be better than what you got now right? tho i dont recomend this if your thinking of selling it.

tune ups arent that bad. if you know what your doing.
plugs/wires $ 75 tops. aux belts $45. fuel filter $20.
t belt kit from SBR is $220+S&H, just cut the BS belt.
air filters and exhaust parts are good excuses to upgrade.
a MAF adapter + filter -$50 at autozone.
have a muff shop fix those leaks or bend you some pipes.

ahh tranny woe's... maybe start looking for a replacment, or saving for a rebuild. try n upgrade while your in there. translab shift kits n IPT clutch kits and a good cooler. this will most likely be the biggest expense... give or take $1g.
 
I bought my 91 NT for 1250, id pay what u paid for a 2G turbo... I dont have a 6 bolt to put in though ;) hehe
 
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