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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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well there is know way that the 14b turbo that is on there will get you 350 hp. And theres no reason for the safc if he is on stock injectors. So also you might ask about that. And try the trans out because most 1g's trans arent very good.

You can use the safc to max out the duty cycle of the stock injectors to flow a little more than stock when you put a bigger F/P and turbo on. such as a 190lph and a small 16g. just my 2 cents

this guy your are buying from also seems like an absolute idiot, saying it puts down "about 275" as he states in his car domain, he also lists, a "racing muffler as a performance part". and he thinks it would be a fair trade for a s14? HA! this talon i would say is only worth about 2 grand, maybe less depending on the shape. but hey man, its your money, i would personally look for a stock gsx or tsi and that way you know it hasn't been tampered with and it will save you alot of headaches.
 
What kind of a price are you thinking of spending on the TSI, the second post of pictures didnt show up for me, could have just been my browser though. Also what kind of modifications are done?
 
Manual boost controller
OBX boost gauge
K&N filter with a modded MAF sensor
Magnecor plug wires
Pacesetter header
High flow cat
Racing muffler
Fully rebuilt head, with a 4 angle valve job
Port and Polished head
A'pexi S-AFC
Datalogger

For handling i have put front and rear strut tower bars on
which helped a lot
16" Enkei RS-6 wheels with Toyo tires
Ractive shift knob
Ralliart short throw shifter
Ralliart steering wheel
JDM trans and t-case mated to an XTD stage 2 clutch


I am not sure about price. I was thinking $2800 maybe. I havent even seen this car yet. I am just going on what my friend's have said.
 
The BOV is not recirculated, do that when you can too.

Here is a shot of the intake i just took it off until i can figure out how to make a mount for my BOV to recirculate.

I think that he did not have it recirculating when he took the pics. Idk. I think I am going to see if he wants to drive it to Spearfish soon.
 
1994 Talon TSi AWD

The car has had 2 owners, and was completely stock until I got it around 90k miles. Most of the things done were within the last 1k miles or so. Its currently got 106k miles on it. The interior is clean, with beautiful black leather seats.


Whats done:
brand new big 16g, ported
tubular manifold, ported
tubular 02 housing, ported
550cc injectors
vr4 fuel pump
k&n filter
datalogger
turbo timer
3" turbo-back exhaust
FMIC but still has foglights
professionally tinted windows
brand new kuhmo ecsta tires
ICW racing rims
dropped about 2" on coilovers
new aftermarket shocks
camber kit installed w/ new alignment
short throw shifter
new clutch
new alternator, water pump, timing belt, and all other belts


The bad:
it needs new cv axles eventually, the boots are ripped and they click
paint is faded on the passenger side near the top of the door
ABS light is on, but brakes work fine, no worries!
it will need a good tune, because it is running pretty rich
 
Doubt it, probably a spun rod bearing...
I would say thats worth it for 800, 2-3k=built bottom end.:thumb:
The more he drives it with it knocking the more things its going to screw up.
 
Hi guys, I'm thinking of buying this TSI AWD. I've been reading a lot on here for the past two months, and I have read just about every post. I read over the buying guide and everything located here, as well as, the model difference list located here

But I still have a few questions. I don't think I know enough yet about these cars to just go buy one, and I've read lots of threads. The model guide i linked says "Both LSD rear differential and ABS on 92 models and up" as well as "Pre-91 model year cars came with LSD or ABS, not both" so what did the 91's come with? If not both I'll make sure to ask. I also emailed him asking about the leak, he says its from the oil return tube(did a search seems its common). Also being "rebuilt" is there anything else I should look for that wouldn't be blatantly obvious? I have also heard that 90's are the black holes of cars money wise, are 91's like this as well? Is this just the cost of getting a 17 year old car running perfect or were they designed bad, or both?

p.s. I think this is the most punctuation and capital letters I have ever used on a forum :thumb:

p.p.s Also I know tons of these get posted, but I'd never buy it unless I got feedback on it, I'm just like that.
 
You'll want to check to see if he has receipts for the rebuild to prove that the work was done. I'd also recommend taking it to a shop to get a compression check and a leakdown test to verify the condition of the engine. Also, check which brand components were used. Were they oem mitsu parts? Was the oil pump replaced? Were the balance shafts removed? Was a new timing belt used? What brand was that?

The main disadvantage with the 91 and earlier cars is the 3 bolt rear end. If you're making more than 350hp and plan on drag racing the car or launching it hard on the street, you're going to risk breaking rear axles. $300-$400 will usually remedy this by getting a 4 bolt rear end from a donor 92+ car.

Oil return tube leak is common, especially if new crush washers for the oil pan bolts weren't used. Still, best to check or get someone else to check if that's where it's leaking from if you can tell. There are lots of things in that area that can leak oil.

ABS isn't necessarily all it's cracked up to be on a 1g. It doesn't work nearly as well as newer cars. Still, if you get snow in the winter and have decent tires, it probably won't hurt.

Also, the walbro 255 pump he says is installed is pretty big for the stock regulator. It's common for that pump to overrun the regulator. When that happens, the regulator can't lower fuel pressure during cruise and idle and the car tends to run rich, which could affect driveability and gas mileage. A new regulator would fix this.

If the work wasn't done properly on any dsm, they can be a handful and quite expensive. Once you get them running right, though, they're great cars and can actually be reliable. If you can, hook up with a knowledgeable shop or local club member to help look over the car with you. Good luck.
 
thanks for the response! He says he has all the recipts, and that the belt were replaced. I was gonna get looked at, and get the timing check I don't plan on making over 350whp any time soon, but if I get there I planed on switching to a 4-bolt rear. Plus we never get snow here, right on the beach (I'm far enough to avoid the rust, but close enough to stay decently warm in the winter). As for the walbro 255, I figured I'd throw in a AFPR or just put the stock back in until i get some mods in it. And I'll have to look into finding someone to look at it with me.

Thanks again for the advice! Ross
 
I'd definitely see the reciepts. I'm curious as to why he'd be selling, especially at that low of a price, if he just rebuilt the engine.

Also, most people don't upgrage the fuel pump unless they are/were/or planned to run over stock boost. A MBC is easy to install and just as easy to take off so that you wouldn't know it had even been there.

And as far as ABS goes, its not a big deal. My 94 is equipped with it, but it hasn't worked since I got the car. I live in Wyoming and last winter I drove the car everywhere with pretty crappy tires on the back, and it still got around like a dream. So I wouldn't worry about the car being non-ABS. To be honest, the ABS box really gets in the way when you are trying to upgrade the upper intercooler pipe. Alot of people get rid of the ABS completely.
 
I'm almost sure he was running above stock boost, a quick member search on here turned up this,same city and car year and model(so i guess thats him). I guess he just took the BOV out. I planned on doing the crush mod or what ever it is to the stock BOV eventually anyways to save some $$$.:thumb:

P.S. i was wondering about the price too. In his profile it says is all "stock parts" but isn't that still a little cheap? oh and FYI chassis has 192k on it
 
just a little update. The engine is the original 6bolt that came with the car. He had a valve job, resurfaced the head, new rods and pistons, new water pump,new HG, and a new timing belt timing belt. Is it me or does it sound too good for $2300?
 
1994 Talon TSi AWD

The car has had 2 owners, and was completely stock until I got it around 90k miles. Most of the things done were within the last 1k miles or so. Its currently got 106k miles on it. The interior is clean, with beautiful black leather seats.


Whats done:
brand new big 16g, ported
tubular manifold, ported
tubular 02 housing, ported
550cc injectors
vr4 fuel pump
k&n filter
datalogger
turbo timer
3" turbo-back exhaust
FMIC but still has foglights
professionally tinted windows
brand new kuhmo ecsta tires
ICW racing rims
dropped about 2" on coilovers
new aftermarket shocks
camber kit installed w/ new alignment
short throw shifter
new clutch
new alternator, water pump, timing belt, and all other belts


The bad:
it needs new cv axles eventually, the boots are ripped and they click
paint is faded on the passenger side near the top of the door
ABS light is on, but brakes work fine, no worries!
it will need a good tune, because it is running pretty rich

What do yall think? I want some feedback before I look at it.
 
im looking to get a 95 talon for 700
it has 101k miles
the engine does have a loud clicking though
is this a fair deal
 
Well, the white AWD in Rapid sold, and the one in Casper is to far away from me. But there is still my friends black 95 TSi FWD.
It is a 95, black, leather, Borla muffler, 150,XXX miles. New clutch, struts, and a bunch of timing stuff replaced in the past 5k miles. He also just replaced a bottom end pulley? I am not sure exactly what it is, but according to him it drives all the accesories. It has a new hood, eclipse lo-deck wing, and a few after-market mods, but I think he is putting them on his GSX.
 
That's a really heavily modified car, and I wouldn't suggest buying it unless you know what you're getting yourself into. It'd be nice to know the ins and outs of the car before you start modifying, but with this car you're just going to be essentially thrown into a pungee pit.

I'm not saying it wouldn't be an excellent learning experience (the knowledge will be important in the long run with you need to diagnose breaks), I'm just advising against it. If you have the time and money to really "get to know" the car, go for it.

One skepticism: if this car is in seemingly perfect condition and is as excellent as it sounds, why is he selling it?
 
i definately dont have any problem getting to know the ins and outs of the car,just came across what looks like a really good deal and decided why not? ill be sure to ask him why hes selling it,any other talon/eclipse specific questions i should know about besides the basic car buying questions??

really hoping to be able to become a full fledged member of these forums if the sale goes through, gonna miss the mach tho, no more tire smoking for me :thumb:
 
woh man,sorry for not finding that, not used to being a member of a forum who basically has everything you could ever need to know,thanks alot though.....
 
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