teardown time?

[speedy_talon28]

I finally decided that I will take my engine out to replace the rear main seal and also while it's out I am going to install a stage 3 clutch and a lighter flywheel. I was wondering how heavy is the engine? can it be took out without using a engine hoist? could this project be done on a weekend? sorry, for all my questions but, I have ever done this before. I do have a shop manual on cd and besides it would be a great learning experience thanks

 

[Cs4g63]

No you should take the engine out with a hoist, and a weekend is enough time to finish your project.

 

[Nors]

I am new to DSMs and had the engine out in under 4 hours with a 160 dollar hoist from harbor freight. 15 minutes later had the trans off the engine and the clutch/flywheel/pp off. So it really isn't difficlut. I would use an engine hoist though, its good to have around for future things too. The engine is pretty heavy, I don't have an exact weight but to me the head was heavy and awkward to carry so take that for what its worth, heavy to some may not be heavy to all. Overall I think you could knock the job out in 2 days if you are working slow, 1 day if you hustle. If everything goes smooth its great so be careful not to break any bolts or anything that will be a hassle. Overall I spent 180 on my engine hoist + chain + some little chain adapter things. Good luck and get a hoist!

 

[AK_4g63t]

True, I think it took me a little over 2.5 hours to get my engine out the 2nd timewith air tools and around 4 the first time. Once it's out it takes no time at all to take it apart. It would be very very hard to get it/out without a hoist. Buy one and an engine stand. It's a good investment, trust me!

 

[bling5tatus]

You all are crazy... you don't NEED a hoist, yes it helps... but for a poor person, you can use jacks to jack the front end up really high and then use jacks to lower the engine and drag it out from underneath the car. Of course you need to pay a bit more attention to detail here as it is a potential situation where you could damage things like your oil pain if you are not careful but if you take your time you should have no trouble doing it without a hoist....

OR

You could always pull the axles and the transmission with the motor still in the car and just change the clutch that way... but since your doing the main seal you'll probably want the thing out of the car completely.

 

[19Eclipse90]

You all are crazy... you don't NEED a hoist, yes it helps... but for a poor person, you can use jacks to jack the front end up really high and then use jacks to lower the engine and drag it out from underneath the car. Of course you need to pay a bit more attention to detail here as it is a potential situation where you could damage things like your oil pain if you are not careful but if you take your time you should have no trouble doing it without a hoist....

OR

You could always pull the axles and the transmission with the motor still in the car and just change the clutch that way... but since your doing the main seal you'll probably want the thing out of the car completely.

I'm sorry, and then what method do you use to get the engine back in there? Not the best advice I've ever heard. Plus the OP wants to get it done in a weekend. Good luck with that using your 'poor man's suggestion'.
However, I am right with you on the second half. You do not need to pull the engine to do the clutch or rear main seal, just pull the transmission. Personally, I wouldn't pull the engine just for that. If you can't afford the hoist that has been suggested, leave the motor in the car.

 

[speedy_talon28]

I didn't know that you could change the clutch with the engine still in the car, how hard is it to do it that way? can you change a flywheel that way?

 

[Dream On]

Much easier probably. You only need to drop the transmission to change the clutch and the rear main. I would just leave the engine in the car. Remove the axles, get anything out of the way up top like the intake/IC pipes, remove the starter, and start removing the bolts on the trans. The rear main is right behind the flywheel. The hoist isn't needed in this case as it can be done with a jack. Though I've found it to be a lot easier to use a hoist.

 

[speedy_talon28]

thanks for your help: Cs4g63, Nors, AK_4g63t, bling5tatus, 19Eclipse90, 19Eclipse90, and Dream_On

 

[19Eclipse90]

Like DreamOn said, take all that stuff off, axles, pipes, etc. Make sure you drain the transmission fluid before removing the axles. The flywheel can be removed with a second person holding the crank shaft pulley bolt through the driver's side fender well as you wrench on the 6 or 7 bolts holding it in place. You will need to undo the transmission mount as well. On the slave cylinder - once disconnected, do not allow it to hang. Place it up and out of the way. Use zipties if necessary to keep it from hanging.

 

[bling5tatus]

Not hard, the transmission is light enough to be picked up/moved by one person. And yes, it is possible to put your motor back in your car without a hoist, my friend doesn't have a hoist and he does this very often... it's a matter of not being a moron about it and CAREFULLY jacking the motor back up into the car and attaching the motor mounts. It can be done, is it the easiest/best way... maybe not... but it is very possible.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Not hard, the transmission is light enough to be picked up/moved by one person. And yes, it is possible to put your motor back in your car without a hoist, my friend doesn't have a hoist and he does this very often... it's a matter of not being a moron about it and CAREFULLY jacking the motor back up into the car and attaching the motor mounts. It can be done, is it the easiest/best way... maybe not... but it is very possible.

Good thing we have hoists for morons like me than, I suppose.
Because I personally can't even visualize how one would use a simple hydraulic jack to lift a whole motor into place without damaging it... some simple mind I must have.

 

[Dream On]

Like DreamOn said, take all that stuff off, axles, pipes, etc. Make sure you drain the transmission fluid before removing the axles. The flywheel can be removed with a second person holding the crank shaft pulley bolt through the driver's side fender well as you wrench on the 6 or 7 bolts holding it in place. You will need to undo the transmission mount as well. On the slave cylinder - once disconnected, do not allow it to hang. Place it up and out of the way. Use zipties if necessary to keep it from hanging.

Good points. I used a large breaker bar and wedged it against something on the suspension or the floor (can't remember) to get out the flywheel bolts. They're pretty scary to take off because the head of the bolts is small and there isn't much to grip. PB blaster and or heat should get them off though.

 

[bling5tatus]

Good thing we have hoists for morons like me than, I suppose.
Because I personally can't even visualize how one would use a simple hydraulic jack to lift a whole motor into place without damaging it... some simple mind I must have.

Well I am by no means against using a hoist, I purchased one from harbor freight about a month ago.... for a very good price since it was on sale. My friend doesn't make so much money so he makes due with what he has.... and his car ALWAYS runs, I don't care if he blows up the head on Friday, by Saturday afternoon he's putting gas in the car at the station again.... and he does a lot of things that most "by the factory service manual" mechanics will knock and say it's bullshit, and you cannot do that... etc.... yet his car works all the time? C'mon, he's not building race motors and I'm sure if he was, he'd be using a hoist, but for the junk yard blocks and stuff he regularly uses on his dsms (he has 4 awd 1g's) this method of installing the motor has worked for him time and time again. I've witnessed it and my eyes don't lie to me.

 

[Nors]

Good points. I used a large breaker bar and wedged it against something on the suspension or the floor (can't remember) to get out the flywheel bolts. They're pretty scary to take off because the head of the bolts is small and there isn't much to grip. PB blaster and or heat should get them off though.

Yeah this is what I did, but I used a half inch drive ratchet with a pipe on it, and a breaker bar against the ground. Before the bolts broke loose it was bringing the engine off the ground and I thought I was in trouble but then it broke loose. No PB was used at all, might have helped though. After the bolts are out give it a little pry and be careful because it is heavier then it looks.


Just a little FYI the tranny mount is either 14 or 17, flywheel bolts were 17mm, pressure plate were like 12mm or 14mm.

And you will need a clutch alignment tool so make sure your kit comes with one.