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tapping a chassis

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boosted86

15+ Year Contributor
414
5
Sep 7, 2005
Weston, Florida
i have a little dilema, ok i was attemting to install a diy camber kit on the rear of my talon. while i was removing the bolts that hold the rear upper control arm in place the bolts were so bady rust welded that the heads of the bolts snapped right off! any way tried using penetrating oil and heat with my #3 extractor to remove the bolt from the chasis... no luck, i ended up snapping the extractor in the hole that i drilled. :thumb: to make a long story longer, i had to dremel the outside of the bolt to remove the extractor,throwing any chances of using the correct bolt (10mmx1.25x35mm) out the window.

to my question, is it possible to drill and tap a standard size bolt thread ( 10mm< x) into that area of the chasis without damaging anything, and still keep the over all function of the camber kit functional? and if so what size tap? thanks in advance
 
At this point whats done is done, and you still have to re-attach the arm back to the chassis.

With that said I would first try to see if it where possible to get on the back side to maybe get some vise grips on any part of the bolt that may be sticking through. If that did not work I would drill and tap new threads

Good luck, when I did mine fortunately they came out with a little effort.
 
OK, first off, you CAN NOT drill out an easy out.

However, there is a way to get it out without drilling it out. Take a good center punch, line it up in the center of the easy out..... Smack it good and hard. A center punch will shatter the easy out. Then, you just need to blow out the hole in there, and your first problem will be fixed.
 
i had to dremel the outside of the bolt to remove the extractor,throwing any chances of using the correct bolt (10mmx1.25x35mm) out the window.

to my question, is it possible to drill and tap a standard size bolt thread ( 10mm< x) into that area of the chasis without damaging anything, and still keep the over all function of the camber kit functional? and if so what size tap? thanks in advance

from the way it sounds he has already removed the easy out. i would think you should be able to drill and re-tap that hole but i wouldn't go to big. normally manufactures like to put a small square block of steel about the size of a nut to thread into. if it were me, i would go up very slowly with the drill bits until you can just see where the old threads are, probably about a 3/8. then i would look at taping it to the next size up from that, probably a 7/16 but i wouldn't push it to 12mm.
 
If you use a mig welder to put a glob of steel onto what's left of the bolt, then the sudden cooling effect caused by grabbing that glob of steel with vise grips will cause the bolt to release and unscrew with ease.

I do it all the time; it works great, and doesn't even burn the paint.
 
from the way it sounds he has already removed the easy out. i would think you should be able to drill and re-tap that hole but i wouldn't go to big. normally manufactures like to put a small square block of steel about the size of a nut to thread into. if it were me, i would go up very slowly with the drill bits until you can just see where the old threads are, probably about a 3/8. then i would look at taping it to the next size up from that, probably a 7/16 but i wouldn't push it to 12mm.

this was my main concern, i wasnt sure how much "meat" on that part of the chasis i had to work with, which is why i was a little skeptical on drilling a larger tap hole... im going to try a 3/8 drill bit and hope fro the best..thanks again, ill keep you guys posted on my results

OK, first off, you CAN NOT drill out an easy out.

However, there is a way to get it out without drilling it out. Take a good center punch, line it up in the center of the easy out..... Smack it good and hard. A center punch will shatter the easy out. Then, you just need to blow out the hole in there, and your first problem will be fixed.

LOL, i learned this the hard way.. 2 drill bits and $24 later :ohdamn:

At this point whats done is done, and you still have to re-attach the arm back to the chassis.

With that said I would first try to see if it where possible to get on the back side to maybe get some vise grips on any part of the bolt that may be sticking through. If that did not work I would drill and tap new threads

Good luck, when I did mine fortunately they came out with a little effort.

The bolts, to my knowledge, are inaccessible from the rear.
 
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