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Taking the next step in this NA build, any other parts I should replace? Oil pump?

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DaJackal

10+ Year Contributor
89
0
Jun 11, 2009
Lappeenranta, Europe
All right, let's introduce this build a bit for starters. I and my girlfriend are working on her 420A (the car used to be mine, sold it to her a couple of months ago). The car is a 95 GS that has 115kmiles on the clock. The goal is to make it a nicely drivable DD that still has something to offer when you floor the pedal. Going turbo is not an option due to our ridiculous laws (we live in Finland, EU), so NA is the way to go. NO2 is possible, but nowhere in the near future.

The car currently has AEM CAI, 57mm TB (IM slightly ported to match better) and SS 2.5" Exhaust & header w/ Magnaflow hi-flow cat. With only these mods it has been dyno'd with decent results - 151hp, 186Nm at the crank. The car is running richer than Bill Gates past 4.5krpm (AFR going below 11 @ 7k OMG) so even now it has a lot more to offer when tuned properly. Last spring I drove the car to 15.95 time in 1/4 mile (top speed not known) with these mods. Now it has come time to take the next step, since I don't know exactly when the timing job has been done last time. To be sure we are going to do it now, and when we're at it, it's about time to change some other parts too. The list of parts to be installed is the following:

-Crane 12 cams
-Crower titanium valve springs & retainers
-OBX adjustable cam gears
-2.7 rockers & PT lifters
-Gates Racing timing belt & partsdinosaur mechanical tensioner conversion kit
-GMB water pump
-MSnS (hell yeah!)
-Bomx UDP (I know it's cheap, but it looks ok and should do the job)
-Injectors will be cleaned and reconditioned to make sure
-Prothane motor & trans mounts (front mount done already, was loose as a... well, it was loose. Nuff said. :cool:)
-EGR block-off
-Evo3 front brakes
-Silicone hoses, fuel filter, new sparks plugs of course (wires already replaced to NGKs a year ago)

With these parts and a somewhat safe tune (by this I mean not f**kin' aggressive :rolleyes:) we are aiming to reach 180hp at the crank.

The MSnS came as an assembled kit from a member and I have a friend who has installed & tuned MS before, so I'm not exactly worried about that part. What I would like to know, though, is: have I missed something? Are there any other basic parts we should change when we're at it, like how about the oil pump for example? Can it still be trusted with these miles? I have noticed no leaks. Fuel pump might become an issue, I know, but according to the dyno pull it is still in good shape and pumpin' like Ron Jeremy so no need for a Walbro 195 yet. Plus, it's easy to change also afterwards if needed. I have a full upper gasket kit so gaskets shouldn't be a problem.

My friend has a small camera that can be used to look at the engine internals and if they look ok we'll just do these. After 2-3 years we've planned to do a rebuild with 10.5 forged internals and 2.2 stroker kit, so we'd like to keep the bottom end as it is for now and change only the parts we need to make it last until this rebuild (then we'll of course change the oil pump, if we don't do it now). The summer is coming so we need to get the car on street with minimal amount of downtime. This is why:
a) we wouldn't want to take the IM to a machine shop or any similar stuff that might be time-consuming
b) I'm asking this now, because it takes at least a week or two to get some parts from US to Finland and therefore it causes delay if we notice that something's missing at the moment we'd need the part. :)

Sorry for long post, but decided to tell as much as possible right in the beginning. Suggestions, reminders and comments are more than welcome!
 
All right, let's introduce this build a bit for starters. I and my girlfriend are working on her 420A (the car used to be mine, sold it to her a couple of months ago). The car is a 95 GS that has 115kmiles on the clock. The goal is to make it a nicely drivable DD that still has something to offer when you floor the pedal. Going turbo is not an option due to our ridiculous laws (we live in Finland, EU), so NA is the way to go. NO2 is possible, but nowhere in the near future.

The car currently has AEM CAI, 57mm TB (IM slightly ported to match better) and SS 2.5" Exhaust & header w/ Magnaflow hi-flow cat. With only these mods it has been dyno'd with decent results - 151hp, 186Nm at the crank. The car is running richer than Bill Gates past 4.5krpm (AFR going below 11 @ 7k OMG) so even now it has a lot more to offer when tuned properly. Last spring I drove the car to 15.95 time in 1/4 mile (top speed not known) with these mods. Now it has come time to take the next step, since I don't know exactly when the timing job has been done last time. To be sure we are going to do it now, and when we're at it, it's about time to change some other parts too. The list of parts to be installed is the following:

-Crane 12 cams
-Crower titanium valve springs & retainers
-OBX adjustable cam gears
-2.7 rockers & PT lifters
-Gates Racing timing belt & partsdinosaur mechanical tensioner conversion kit
-GMB water pump
-MSnS (hell yeah!)
-Bomx UDP (I know it's cheap, but it looks ok and should do the job)
-Injectors will be cleaned and reconditioned to make sure
-Prothane motor & trans mounts (front mount done already, was loose as a... well, it was loose. Nuff said. :cool:)
-EGR block-off
-Evo3 front brakes
-Silicone hoses, fuel filter, new sparks plugs of course (wires already replaced to NGKs a year ago)

With these parts and a somewhat safe tune (by this I mean not f**kin' aggressive :rolleyes:) we are aiming to reach 180hp at the crank.

The MSnS came as an assembled kit from a member and I have a friend who has installed & tuned MS before, so I'm not exactly worried about that part. What I would like to know, though, is: have I missed something? Are there any other basic parts we should change when we're at it, like how about the oil pump for example? Can it still be trusted with these miles? I have noticed no leaks. Fuel pump might become an issue, I know, but according to the dyno pull it is still in good shape and pumpin' like Ron Jeremy so no need for a Walbro 195 yet. Plus, it's easy to change also afterwards if needed. I have a full upper gasket kit so gaskets shouldn't be a problem.

My friend has a small camera that can be used to look at the engine internals and if they look ok we'll just do these. After 2-3 years we've planned to do a rebuild with 10.5 forged internals and 2.2 stroker kit, so we'd like to keep the bottom end as it is for now and change only the parts we need to make it last until this rebuild (then we'll of course change the oil pump, if we don't do it now). The summer is coming so we need to get the car on street with minimal amount of downtime. This is why:
a) we wouldn't want to take the IM to a machine shop or any similar stuff that might be time-consuming
b) I'm asking this now, because it takes at least a week or two to get some parts from US to Finland and therefore it causes delay if we notice that something's missing at the moment we'd need the part. :)

Sorry for long post, but decided to tell as much as possible right in the beginning. Suggestions, reminders and comments are more than welcome!

The only thing I would look into is a LSD. Quaife is getting more and more expensive, however, a properly rebuilt OBX one will run around 400 bucks plus parts... It's worth looking into.

De-mystifying and Bulletproofing the OBX LSD (Re-born) - Club RSX Message Board

This is the best rebuild walkthrough I could find so far (my own is yet to come then I will plug that :D). The only thing that it doesn't cover is getting better quality bolts and washers. There was people on this site that would sell those in the past, however, I don't know if they still do. Keep in mind that this rebuild is off a rsx so there might be some slight differences but the principles are the same.
 
Last edited:
Used Quaife or rebuilt OBX LSD will be installed in the future. We'll just see how the clutch can cope with the new setup first. It should have been replaced 3 years ago by the previous owner, but one can never be sure. If the clutch dies and must be replaced we'll then put in the LSD. Also trying to draw the line somewhere now so that this thing won't get out of hand. :)

Edit: So the oil pump shouldn't be critical, you'd say?
 
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