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Should I replace the crankshaft?

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ed1380

Supporting VIP
2,971
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Sep 29, 2007
ATL, Georgia
I bought a 98 RS and I think there was no oil in the engine and a rod bearing was shattered and the idiot kept on driving.

so the engine is siezed and a rod is bent.

my consern at the moment is do I have to replace the crankshaft, or will some emory cloth take the metal off teh crank


also where can I get one rod bearing, or will i need to change all 4?



yeah I know RS sucks, blah blah blah, but I'm 17 and my other car has enough power to average it out :sneaky:

I need more than one person's opinion.

anyone else?
 

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That Neon motor is trashed;)! You won't need a brand new crank most likely but it'll have to go to the machine shop and be turned at the very least. You can't buy a single rod bearing LOL. Just buy the set. They're cheap anyway. You can get away with just 1 rod though as long as the other 3 are ok. My guess is the block will need work too. I'd say just buy a good compression used 420a and start with something that wasn't killed.
 
That Neon motor is trashed;)! You won't need a brand new crank most likely but it'll have to go to the machine shop and be turned at the very least. You can't buy a single rod bearing LOL. Just buy the set. They're cheap anyway. You can get away with just 1 rod though as long as the other 3 are ok. My guess is the block will need work too. I'd say just buy a good compression used 420a and start with something that wasn't killed.
k. I was thinking of honing that cylinder anyways.


Moved to 420a bolt on. NATAS, please fill out your car profile.

I thought newbs had to stay in the noob section :confused:
 
Might be a good time to do a 4g63 swap... but yeah i'd probably throw another 420A engine in there if your not keen on the 4g63. You never know what kind of other crap that guy effed up. I'm sure your cams aren't too happy with no oil either...
 
no mods for this one. just need to learn how to drive stick, then I'll get an AWD one.

so do I have to shell out teh $160 for teh new crank or not?


@ oldman- ok. will do



how did you know I had a 420a?
 
USDM 2G N/T DSMs all had 420A engines.

You're in for a pretty complete engine overhaul... pull the block, disassemble, and take to your machinist. Have the crank turned, and the cylinder walls honed or bored depending on the condition. Have your machinist inspect the head; if the head or the camshafts are damaged, get a new one -- there's no repairing these.

Go to www.partsdinosaur.com and order new pistons, rods, rings, bearings, TTY head bolts and main bolts, and a complete gasket kit.

Of course, you can also always just pickup a good 420A longblock and replace the old one. Either way, you're in for a bit of work -- something the novice mechanic probably isn't suited for.

Good luck.


...and swapping the 4G63 is a ridiculous notion. Do a quick search and you'll learn why.
 
USDM 2G N/T DSMs all had 420A engines.
O. thanks


You're in for a pretty complete engine overhaul... pull the block, disassemble, and take to your machinist. Have the crank turned, and the cylinder walls honed or bored depending on the condition. Have your machinist inspect the head; if the head or the camshafts are damaged, get a new one -- there's no repairing these.
how much would it cost to get the crank turned?

my dad's a mechanic so he can help with some stuff

one of the lobes does have a little scratch , but I'm not gonna do anything demanding

yep. that was my first question. how come some of teh 2.0's are backwards.


great link, but I only found a remanufactured rod
 
VelocitàPaola;151293526 said:
USDM 2G N/T DSMs all had 420A engines.
Except for the 2.4L Spydy. :p

ed1380, please use proper capitalization when posting in tech sections.
 
how much would it cost to get the crank turned?

Different machinists in different regions charge different amounts. A couple quick calls to your local reputable machine shops should provide you with an answer.

how come some of teh 2.0's are backwards.

The 4g37 (1gnt), 4g63 (1gnt, EDM 2gnt & all turbo cars), and 4g64 (2gnt Spyder) Mitsubishi motors are placed with the motor on the driver's side of the engine bay. The Chrysler built 420a found in 2gnt's has the motor placed on the passenger side of the engine's bay.
 
Thanks guys for all your help.

It'll come in handy when I start fixing it.


Any of y'all know where I can get the ceiling material? Junk yards don't have any, and i don't know of any aftermarket places that do.

Also need the little plastic triangle that holds the passenger mirror adjuster.

Thanks again
 
eBay... Junkyards... 2GNT classifieds... those are your best bets.

Let's not turn this thread into a free-for-all; try to stay on topic a little.
 
Ok. I'll stay on topic here, but does that mean I'll need to make another topic for a question about looks, even though I'm the OP?

I'm sorry for asking. I'm just not used to a forum as strict as this


Thanks for the reply. I forgot about checking the classified
 
ok. I'll stay on topic here, but does that mean I'll need to make another topic for a question about looks, even though I'm the OP?
Pretty much yes, unless the TECH topics are closely related, the reason for this is so others who searches in the future will be able to find answers based on the topic of the thread, this is also why your thread title was changed to reflect the content of the thread. If you have questions concerning appearance, first do a search in the appearance section and then post a thread there if you can't find the answer. See how the system work? :)
 
ok. I see.

So I dropped the engine and gutted it.

I found a donor engine and bought that.

now I'd like to know how much do I torque it (head, main bearing, rod caps, etc)
I've searched around and this is all I've found. http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/rebuild.html
It's a pretty good guide, but I'd like to know what the real specs are

another question. where can I download a manual?
the repair one and the one you get when you buy the car (can't figure out what the special lever on the driver's seat is for)
 
ok. I see.

So I dropped the engine and gutted it.

I found a donor engine and bought that.

now I'd like to know how much do I torque it (head, main bearing, rod caps, etc)
I've searched around and this is all I've found. http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/rebuild.html
It's a pretty good guide, but I'd like to know what the real specs are

another question. where can I download a manual?
the repair one and the one you get when you buy the car (can't figure out what the special lever on the driver's seat is for)

I don't know where to download a manual, but this is a common car, for the most part. There is a haynes manual available for purchase from pretty much any auto store.
 
http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/rebuild.html
It's a pretty good guide, but I'd like to know what the real specs are

Those are the real specs. Corbin tool them right from the factory service manual.

another question. where can I download a manual?
the repair one and the one you get when you buy the car (can't figure out what the special lever on the driver's seat is for)

There used to be some uploaded copies floating around, but I haven't seen any in a while.
 
I'm too cheap to buy a manual for the car. Especially if I'm not gonna keep it for long

related question-

in what order do I assemble?
Corbin's guide didn't mention it.

put bedplate in. then rear seal
or
put seal on crank. install crank and then put bedplate
 
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