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T25 hit the crapper... now, EVO 3 16G or 50 trim???

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Jesus!... Sorry I didn't use the "proper" terminology!! But the idea is relatively the same. Did you, or did you not understand what I was trying to say?? Apparently you did, only you felt the need to fire back some off topic response. Just because I'm asking a question, doesn't mean I'm stupid.

The point is that I'm not gong to be turning up the boost so high that my OEM fuel pump can't keep up with the proper amount of fuel... thus causing detonation. There isn't only one way to do things. While I would've rather already have the upgraded fuel system, it's not like my T25 taking a crap on me was a well thought out plan. Not to mention that if I absolutely need to have more fuel pressure, it's not like I can't wait 2 more weeks til the next payday and buy a fuel pump and regulator.
 
Exactly my point as to why you asked a simple queston like that in the first place. I can understand if you were a noob, but you aren't... And the fact that you didn't use the proper terms is not the case, but you are a "Pruven" member, so you should pick your words wisely and cautiously. You said your fuel pump is going to be checked so you don't hit fuel cut. I told you that is not the case as I provided you the link here on the FORUMS. And you just now said you want to make sure your fuel pump doesn't give out on you when you turn up the boost. But by then you will hit fuel cut before you can turn up the boost successfully, not without an AFC or some other tuning device will you be able to get rid of fuel cut completely... Its the ECU, not your Fuel system. Nothing I said was off topic, you just weren't reading it properly. Read the thread link I have provided, and you will fully understand. And also the part about you saying your fuel pump causing your car to run lean, that is part of it, but its also your size of injectors, the rail, lines, etc that can also cause you to run lean or rich. Detonation is caused by a lean mixture, almost like a hand grenade, melting pistons and heads and whatever else it can melt. I have seen that firsthand as well, its not pretty when you have aluminum and cast deposits on your spark plugs and everywhere else.
 
That price is with water pump, hyd tench, and belts.



With a 16g ported it will run about 12-14psi which is fine on mostly stock setup. Most of the time when I get done I dobble check with logger to make sure things are safe. Alot of cars of his age will not handle the 14psi. So at that point we will do a fuel pump. (noting to do with fuel cut just if she goes lean)

A 14b is a great way to go but my Honda guy get them so fast I never have any around so the Evo III is a for sure option.

I think his miss understood one of our talks. I was saying doing the FMIC over a turbo is a debate but he needs a turbo. I think for cost the 16g is the best. Alot of the time the int gate 50trims have a hard time running under 20psi which would then need all supporting mods to even drive the car and if we went external gate the cost would start jumping quite fast over a 16g.
 
Thanks! Either way... I know that when I get my car back I'll know that the job has been done right and that I won't have to second guess what I was told, unlike some other mechanics (sometimes I wonder if they even know what a boost leak test is).

Thanks Lucas!
 
Thanks! Either way... I know that when I get my car back I'll know that the job has been done right and that I won't have to second guess what I was told, unlike some other mechanics (sometimes I wonder if they even know what a boost leak test is).

Thanks Lucas!

If you did the turbo install yourself that might just leave you some money left over to get your fmic or fuel pump... I can understand you not wanting to do a timing belt job, but Its really not that hard to install a turbo at all, common sense.
 
I realize that. But he's going to already have it down there. I don't want to sound like money isn't an issue, because I'm definitly NOT rich. But, coming up with another $300 for a pump and FPR shouldn't be TOO hard and since I paid $160 to have it sent down there, I might as well have a professional do the job... not to mention, this is a pretty good way of starting a relationship with English Racing. Who knows what the future will bring and what services I might need later on down the road.
 
3. A PTE 50 Trim, is going to cost you quite a bit first off, and yeah, internally gated on that particular setup loves boost creep. A couple of my friends, had the required supporting mods, still had boost creep. Then, they eventually welded the flapper door shut, and changed their setup to external. No creeeeep issues now til this day what so ever. And not to mention the oil feed/return lines have to be drilled and tapped into the head, and the IC piping is different, along with other misc parts/mods need to be in place either before/during you get this turbo.

Drilled and tapped oil lines? :confused:

I ran my feed from the oil filter housing and the return line is a pushlock going back into the oil pan.
 
UPDATE!!

I just got my car back from English Racing and can say with a 110% confidane, that was the best choice I could've made. My new Evo III 16g pulls great at 14lbs. of boost and everything just runs plain smoother after having the timing belt changed and everything put into spec.:rocks:

I gotta say that anyone in the Pacific Northwest that is looking for a GREAT mechanic to work on their DSM, English Racing should be your first choice. Not only did he do a fantastic job on the turbo install, he also went out of his way to make sure that even the smallest problems on my car were taken care of. My car now runs better then it ever has since the day I bought it.

Finally, I can start spending money on things that will actually improve my performance now that everything seems to be running in tip-top shape.

Thanks to everyone for their insight and opinion on this and a special thanks to Lucas at English Racing.:thumb:
 
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