t04b(v-trim) Bolt on Discussion

[chubb]

I understand...I guess im gonna go with h-3 ...but I won't be able to get it untill holiday is over..

 

[theNEW]

Ok, so I finally got my t04b on the car. At the same time I installed my fmic(bar and plate) with short route piping. Aeromotive apfr, 255lph walbro.

I am running the car at 15 lbs. It feels awesome. It really doesn't start to move until in hits 15lbs and gets above 4k rpm. It feels awesome and pulls all the way as well as holds boost with the internal 38mm gate.

The turbo itself looks awesome and does bolt right up although I did have some issues.

First and foremost I didn't get the 50 dollar dsmtuners.com discount that has been offered to site members, but I guess thats because I ordered mine about a week or two before I heard of it.

Second, I ordered the Oil feed and drain kit. They look awesome, but I was sent the wrong bolts for the oil drain line, they were sized to fit the feed line side of the turbo(which are not needed). This wasn't too bad, but I had to go down the the local parts store to pick up two bolts that fit the drain line side for the flange. Becuase of this, the bolts didn't fit through the flange and it had to be drilled out. This just took a couple extra hours that I didn't want to deal with. Also the two other bolts(4 total sent with the kit) didn't fit the oil pan. The stock ones could be used though, you just need to swap out the stock washers for thicker and bigger ones to hold the flange or it will leak.

I did everything alone and by myself which includes:

fuel pump
aeromotive afpr relocated to where the cruise control solenoid is
t04b turbo
fmic(bar and plate) which does a great job of cooling the charged air
cut intercooler piping and fit it through the short route rather than the side wall(2.5 in)

I ordered the fmic for $230(18''x12''x3'') and the piping for 70 and did it myself.

All in all, the turbo is great and MY FAVORITE part of it is it holds boost all the way to redline(very important to me).

I raced another gs-t(on stock turbo) the other night after the install and pulled very very very hard in only half a 3rd gear pull up to 5k rpm. At least 4 cars in that one gear on the freeway.

 

[1029TSG]

Its great to hear you're satisfied with your turbo, I just want to apologize for the oil kits. We had to recently switch suppliers because of the issues that you mentioned. Our new kits are much nicer and all the pieces fit quite nicely. I'd like to offer you reimbursement for the additional parts you had to purchase. Please contact me directly.

 

[nazthug]

can someone tell me what size the inlet is on the turbo?(not inside diameter, ) OUTSIDE


I need to order an intake pipe for it, and i havent ordered the turbo yet, but i wanna know?

Do i order a 3" intake, 2.75?

I heard that it was 2.75, but not sure if he meant inside or outside diameter

please let me know guys, thanks

 

[1029TSG]

Its a 3" O.D. on the inlet of the turbo, go with the 3" intake.

 

[nazthug]

muchos gracias

 

[Dennis_McCain]

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Well, I need a turbo so the two that I am looking at are:

The Evo 16g

and this.. http://www.bullseye-power.com/product_info.php?cPath=37&products_id=38

Right now as mods I have :

Tubular Turbo Header
Ported &Polished o2 housing
2 1/2" RnR turboback exhaust
dejontool uicp
Greddy type-s bov
act2600 clutch
Arp headstuds
k&n filter
Joe P mbc
Fluidyne radiator(Not really a performance mod)
stock injectors but flowed cleaned(Planning on getting bigger soon)
hks turbotimer
boost/a.f gauges
taylor 8mm wires w. ngk plugs..

So, I have been emailing the guy at bullseye power and he has told me that with an internally gated turbo, The one I stated above. That I can control the boost and that it will bolt right onto my car with no problems. (Ture)

He told me that I would hafto plug my water lines, Which would not be hard. (Use the NT water pipe. Looks cleaner)

With the bullseye turbo it will be around $850.00 after shipping with internal gate and also the oil feed and drain lines.

An evo 16g turbo from sbr is $569.00. (This sounds like a Big 16G. there O.K. but, at different Boost pressures thaey react diferent. 16g is not bad but, no longer has enough steam)

I will still need the oil feed/drain lines as I messed mine up, So add $100.00 and it bring the total up to $669.00, I will be doing the port work myself so that will be $5.00 for hardware. Do I need a different o2 housing for this turbo, Or an exhaust manifold? (No)

What is your experience with both these turbo's? I figured I would just get the one from bullseye because it is bigger and I would not hafto upgrade again later down the road, But i'm not exactly sure what to do. When it's all said and done, I will have one of these turbos, But I definatly need help to guide me to one or the other.

Some this Things that you may want to check put, Slim Fan, Lower intercooler pipes (20g type the T04B points down like the 20g) and Dejon Tools Intake. It looks like you are not running a piggy back system. If not the 3 inch intake should work for you. I'm using the PMS and I can not use the 3 inch intake. I have to use the cheap intake upgrade.

Tha's it! At the begining keep your boost down, then crank it up slowly. ( You will have to get use to the way the turbo reacts.)

Thanks in advance.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

theNEW - Can you hit full boost in 1st gear? I agree, The turbo really starts to pull up top from 4k up, I only have the boost at about 15psi also, But I cannot hit full boost in 1st gear. If I take it very close to redline, I can build 10psi

Dennis_McCain - I already got everything installed, That 1st post was from months ago!

 

[nazthug]

can you give us more detail? Spool times, power, etc

 

[theNEW]

1993eclipseGS I can't hit full boost in first gear either. But there is one thing I failed to mention to you all. I am on the full stock exhaust! I can build a little over 10 lbs in 1st. But boost readings are usually measured in what ever gear your car is dyno'd in(Usually 4h I believe). I am also running 15 lbs. (Which is what amazes me the most about this turbo, the wastegate holds boost rock solid) Which is where your money REALLY GOES with this turbo.

Honestly guys, the housing really is a work of art. It looks sooo nice even bolted up.

I was having trouble keeping my intercooler pipes on the car. Since I did everything myself I didn't get a chance to tack weld my pipes and bead them till yesterday. With my dad and uncle doing the welds and me working on the car we got everything done from start to finish in under 1.5 hours!!! Thats taking all my piping off and the front pumper and putting them on. No leaks!

I really didn't realize how hard the car actually pulls with this turbo. Last night was my first chance to get some full pulls in because of me popping off the pipes. It hits 80 before you know it. When I was used to being at 50 mph, I look at my speedo and its above 80 everytime and pulling hard. I just wish I had the guts to shift much higher than redline to take advantage of the turbo still breathing. (Do we have a rev limiter anyways? Can we raise it w/o going standalone? And what is the limiter stock?

When I get my full exhaust(3 in. or larger), it should really free up some lag. I am guessing at least 300 rpm. You can hear the back pressure.

- Gilbert

95 gst t04b w/ 193k miles on stock engine and chassis and counting!

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Wow, Once you get your exhaust on, You will definatly notice a BIG difference. I have been having the same problem with ic pipes blowing off, Until I bought t-bolt clamps.

 

[1029TSG]

Don't let your engine stall when your IC pipes blow off, thats the 2nd worst thing you can do to a turbo.

 

[nazthug]

cant wait to get my t3/04b v trim

this will be fun, i already have the rest other then the turbo, im currently on a 16g:

dsmlink
plx300 wideband
660cc
190pump
t3/04b vtrim
25x8x3" fmic, short pipe
1g tb
3" catback, high flow cat
evo o2 housing
evo manifold
18psi pump/22psi race
profecB
other basic bolt ons

This should be awesome

My roomate just got his stage3 mopar package for his srt4 along with a clutch, fmic and big brakes and he is doing 375whp on 100 octane, 23psi

So i will be aiming for about 350-400whp on race gas, i hope i get there.



BTW, do we still get the $50 dsmtuner discount? I need that to cover that 1 year warranty, i wanna try that out just to be worry free

 

[1993eclipseGS]

1029TSG I have my maft in blowthrough, So I do not have any idle problems when the ic pipes blow off, But.. I never heard about this before.. I'd like to learn about it if you wouldent mind explaining why it is bad for the turbo? Thanks

nazthug On one of the previous pages of this thread, There is a dyno sheet of someone who put down 401whp with less mods

I still have no regrets in buying this setup from this company, They're very nice. They have very fast responses and are overall just a wonderful place to deal with. Very polite over the phone and through emails, They answered any questions that I threw at them

 

[1029TSG]

Well, the number one cause of turbo failure is contaminated oil. The second leading cause is lack of oil pressure. If your turbo is spinning at a high rate of speed and your IC pipe blows off causing your engine to stall, this immediately causes the oil pressure to drop to zero. When the oil supply is cut off before the turbocharger has a chance to spool down this can and will cause premature turbo failure.

 

[gas_man]

I just got done installing my Bullseye T04B. It pulls hard, and builds boost faster than I thought. The only problem I ran into is that in 1st-3rd gear I'm fine at around 18 psi but in fourth and 5th my stock 1g bov can't hold the pressure past 10psi, it just keeps blowing off after 10 psi but that is in no way the turbos fault. Its a great, solid turbo

 

[rsunahar]

I just got done installing my Bullseye T04B. It pulls hard, and builds boost faster than I thought. The only problem I ran into is that in 1st-3rd gear I'm fine at around 18 psi but in fourth and 5th my stock 1g bov can't hold the pressure past 10psi, it just keeps blowing off after 10 psi but that is in no way the turbos fault. Its a great, solid turbo

How can you tell it's the bov and not simply a regular boost leak?

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

Well, the number one cause of turbo failure is contaminated oil. The second leading cause is lack of oil pressure. If your turbo is spinning at a high rate of speed and your IC pipe blows off causing your engine to stall, this immediately causes the oil pressure to drop to zero. When the oil supply is cut off before the turbocharger has a chance to spool down this can and will cause premature turbo failure.

But how do you plan on keeping the motor running with a blown off IC pipe?

 

[nazthug]

But how do you plan on keeping the motor running with a blown off IC pipe?

you dont, ...most of the time at least

depends how bad the blowoff is, if its partial, just loose or hanging 1/2 way, the car still idles, let it idle if you can

If it just totally blows off, the car will die if youre runing it still on the MAFS system

If you have a standalone or youre running of the map sensor, the car doesnt give a shit and it will still idle

I have alll my pipes beaded and tbolt clamped, it wll never blow off

ALWAYS use beaded IC pipes, they WILL blow off otherwise, most people have NO idea how much force is inside the pipes at 20psi..its INCREDIBLE air force

 

[nazthug]

damn i still gotta find out what wheel i want though, im not sure if the H3 is worth $150 more then the V trim wheel

Damn...decisions decisions...


btw...is the t3/04b a S, V, or H compressor housing?

 

[4G63dsmpwr]

Hey whats going on guys - I had a coupple quick questions about your setup if you dont mind! I was planning on picking up the FP 18G w/a 10deg. clip, and doing the port work myself. Would of cost me $650 shipped - and good for 350WHP. This seems like an AWESOME deal, and I had my mind set on it... Then this thread came along

Ok here are the basic mods I've put together, to support my 18G - wondering what else I would have to add, to run the TO4B to its full potential:

AFC2, Datalogger Setup, 255HP, FIC 650s, 2G MAS, Lancer EVO O2 Housing (ported), 2G Manifold (ported), HKS 264272 cams, ACT2100, Full 3" SS Buschur Racing exhaust, Freshly Rebuilt Head - Stock Bottom End... Thats pretty much what counts, and obviously alot of other minor things...

One thing missing: FMIC - In the process of picking up a 28" x 10.5" x 3.5" Race setup - would this turbo/FMIC setup work properly as far as pressure drop and whatnot?

What else would I need to set this turbo up? I did have my mind set on the 18G, this setup is about $200 more - wondering if that extra 50WHP is actually achievable? Thats a very impressive dyno run you have there.

I will be running 93 octane mostly - race gas a couple times a year so this what matters the most. Do you think the 18G would be better for a 95% street car?

Thanks for the help very much, after some more research I may be shooting an order your way.

 

[gas_man]

How can you tell it's the bov and not simply a regular boost leak?

Because the bov will open, shut, open , shut then flutter alot, like its confused on wheter to open or shut. If you have any other ideas I'd like to know what they are so I can fix this problem. Wouldn't a boost leak just hiss?

 

[rsunahar]

Because the bov will open, shut, open , shut then flutter alot, like its confused on wheter to open or shut. If you have any other ideas I'd like to know what they are so I can fix this problem. Wouldn't a boost leak just hiss?

Well the general concensus seems to be that you should crush it---assuming you have a mityvac.
It has to be crushed based on the amount of vacuum your particular engine pulls.
If it's failing, crushing it can't really hurt it too bad, unless you crush it so much that it doesnt open at low boost.


You have to look at the amount of vacuum you pull at idle and decel. Pick a number in between that, and crush the bov in a vise with a mityvac hooked up, pulling vacuum so you can see at what vacuum level the bov opens.


I was a moron and crushed my old one without a mityvac, and it basically worked. But I can't advise that type of moronic behavior to someone with a new turbo.



But before you crush it,
you should do a boost leak test.

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

you dont, ...most of the time at least

Haha exactly. I understand why he said try not to shut the motor down, but sometimes it just isn't an option to keep it running.

 

[1029TSG]

Its best to be sure your intercooler piping is secure or purchase our "No Hassle" Warranty .