The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

  • Join the Community!

    DSMtuners is a massive archive of DSM information - but more importantly, it's a COMMUNITY! Join in and participate with other DSMers, and invite all of your DSM friends to make this place their home. Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. ;) It will also allow you to view images in threads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

Sun-Burned ’99 Spyder GS: Revived

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
723
284
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
Great build. Appreciate your details and pictures.

Glad I found this thread again, love the attention to detail you have on this car! Keep the post coming, I'm waiting for an after picture after the seals added on the bows.

Thanks. We just finished gutting the interior to install sound deadening, and while we had an empty interior, we FINALLY tracked down the source of the rain leaks. It wasn’t where we thought they were.

Here’s a link to the article:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/sealing-the-most-common-leaks-in-spyder-roof.523613/
 
Last edited:

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
723
284
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
14. Full Interior Sound Deadening

Those of you who spent hours scraping factory sound deadening from your car to save weight will cringe at this step. For daily driving and occasional touring, the "DSM drone" gets to you after a while. So, we installed Noiko sound deadening mats. They are constructed of about 2mm of rubber, with adhesive on one side, and an aluminum vapor backing on the other.

At first we thought that simply removing the seats, console and carpet would give us enough access to the resonating panels, but we quickly learned there is no good stopping point, so we wound up gutting the car from dashboard to taillights. This turned into a bigger project than anticipated, but that pretty much describes every project ever undertaken on this car, LOL.

Here are the basic tools you'll need. The red marker makes it easy to see your marks on a black surface. The material will cut easily with a scissors for the long cuts, but the razor blade will help with corners and any overlap.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Removing the factory brittle sound deadening:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Rust preventative spray on the any raw surfaces:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


We'll take as much help as we can get:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


All prepped and ready to start installing -- or so we thought:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


When installing the sound mats, do not precut them! You'll wind up with gaps around the edges of the area you were trying to cover. This is because the floor and braces are not straight or perpendicular to each other. Just peel the backing, start at one corner, and begin pressing down. You can cut the edges when you are done.

The manufacturer also talks about rolling the mat tightly onto the surfaces. At first this seemed like overkill, but we soon discovered that air pockets left under the mat will turn into pools of condensation and could start rust. Buy a roller and roll it tight.

Here is after the initial installation:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The trunk sides were going to be hard to do given all of their bracing, vents, wires and lights, so we decided to do the backs of the panels instead:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Here are the pictures with all the tunnel mechanisms and wiring bolted back in, and here is the padding we added for under the carpeting and under the rear seat:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


After it was all back together, we did quite a few daily trips and then, a 350 mile road trip. The result is not a complete sound proofing of the interior, but it does dampen the exhaust drone, and, just as importantly, the tire whine. It feels like a more substantial chassis. The results are noticeable.
 
Last edited:

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
723
284
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
15. Upgrade to GSX 4-Wheel Disc Brakes

The front disc/rear drum setup on the car provided adequate braking modulation, but didn't inspire confidence to push the car through corners on twisty roads. Plus, the heavy weight of the rear drums was not doing us any favors in the suspension department.

We ordered a set of GSX spec disc brake calipers (dual piston front; single rear), ceramic pads, new rotors, stainless brakes hoses and new ebrake cables (since the end fittings are different). We sourced the disc backing plates from a donor GSX and had them bead blasted, and then we seal painted them with POR15 with rustoleum top coat.

There are a couple write ups on how to do the conversion from rear drum to disc, but there are two things none of them mention: 1) Don't forget to buy bolts to attach the rear calipers to the backing plate. The size is M10 x 1.25 x 10mm, You'll need four of them. 2) Getting the clamps off the parking brake cables, and getting those lines out of the car is the most difficult part of the job. This is a Florida car, with virtually no rust, and yet those cable clamp bolts were corroded and tight. There are three clamp points for each ebrake cable, and 4 per side if you count the inside floor tunnel. The rear two finally came out with a little break loose spray, but each of the outside front ones had to have the bolt cut. We were VERY fortunate that our exhaust had v-band connections so that we could remove the back portion and get to the left side front clamp. Those cut bolts were replaced with stainless steel hardware, and everything we unbolted and reattached was slathered in anti-seize.

Here are the pictures of how the process went:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Rear disc brakes removed and the new backing plate fitted into place, with the hub beginning to be reattached. The drum ebrake setup was difficult to install after the hub was in place, so on the other side, the ebrake components went on first.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The finished front brake with the dual piston calipers. The disc is painted with high temp brake paint on both sides of the hub area to prevent rust from seizing it onto either the hub, or the wheel.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


One side complete. A good friend helped with the project, but with the difficulty of removing the existing ebrake cables and a parts run for bracket bolts, it was a solid 9 hour project, start to finish.

As for the new feel of the braking system, it isn't a more sensitive pedal response, but when you do press into them, there is a lot more clamping force available. They are easy to modulate, but that is on the second half of the pedal travel. Apparently, a 3G master cylinder has a more firm feel due to moving more fluid per travel. We might upgrade to that depending on how the pedal feel is after the pads break in.
 
Last edited:

Widgmaster

Supporting VIP
766
547
Aug 24, 2018
Sarnia, ON_Canada
Last edited:

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
723
284
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
[QUOTE="Widgmaster, post: 153775685, member:165098”] ...Just thought I would mention a color back solution to a black faded top . /QUOTE]

Thanks. That looks promising. We’ve been looking for something like that. We’ll give it a try.
 
Last edited:

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
723
284
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
16. Forced Four & Manumatic Shifter

So we've been wanting to add the Forced Four Shift Controller to this build to protect the transmission with increased line pressure and to add better shift control during all driving situations. We also wanted the 3G manumatic shifter for bump up and bump down shifts.

I talked with Shawn at FF and explained to him that we wanted firm manual shifts, but softer auto shifts for daily driving. He determined that we would be best off running the FF controller in PARALLEL to the factory TCU, and switching between the two to get the Jekyll and Hyde personalities we were looking for.

This arrangement makes for a little extra work, but again, Shawn was very helpful in answering all of our questions.

To make sure we knew what gear we were in in the manual mode, we ordered the digital gear display. We wanted it somewhere in our line of sight, but really couldn't find a place to mount the cased version without drawing attention to it, so we decided to put it into the dash display, in the spot that previously had the "A/T Off" light, since that was no longer going to be used.

A. Dash Gear Indicator

The first step was to remove the gauge cluster from the car and disassemble it.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Here are the screws for removing the gauges. Caution: Each gauge uses the attachment screws to conduct electrical signals between the circuit film and the gauge. These screws are different sizes for different gauges. Don't mix them up or lose any of them:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


We removed all of the gauges and light bulbs, and then peeled off the circuit film:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Since the gauge cluster plugs into fixed male connectors behind it, it is important to let the cluster assembly travel all the way back when installed. Fortunately, there is a hole behind the cluster for the display wire to pass through:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

That means that there needs to be a hole through the back of the cluster housing to let the FF display wire through. Of the four screws holding in the speedometer, one of them is a non-electrical connector that lines up almost directly with that hole. We needed to enlarge the screw hole to 1/2" to pass the display connector and wire through:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


However, the FF plug had grip tabs on it, making it not fit through the hole, so we filed off the tabs so that it was only 1/2" in size. Here you see the before and after pictures:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


We carefully slit the circuit film to allow the plug through. Then you can see how it looks when the wire is in the final position:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Next, we had to slightly modify the display by removing the center light lens and notching the mounting area for the display led:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


This display was glued into place and then we placed foam around it to make sure there would be no light leaking when the gauge lights were on. Notice that some of the previous tinted light lens had to be trimmed and reinstalled above the display:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


During the trial fit, it became obvious that the led display was just slightly wider than the opening in the bezel face, so we had to widen this area slightly:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


We reassembled everything and tested the unit display. This picture makes the led look dim and overlit, but no matter how we took the picture, we could not show that the numbers were actually bright and crisp:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Here it is installed in the car:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


We are extremely happy with how it turned out and are ready to begin the second part: Installing the manumatic shifter and FF Shift Controller.
 

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
723
284
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
Installing The ManuMatic Shifter

The moment of truth: Switching over to the 3G manumatic shifter. We had already read the steps and tips from @TheFlashDSM, but our installation is going to be a little more involved.

We had read that the 3G shifter sits farther forward than the 2G. Using the existing mounting holes, this is very true. So we decided to use a manual shift boot rather than try to somehow modify the shifter trim plate in the console. Someone could probably do a 3D printed version of one, but we aren't set up for that. Besides, the conversion has already taken longer than planned.

As an unlikely first step, you have to modify the shift boot to be 2" shorter, otherwise the extra material bunches up at the front of the shifter and prevents you from putting the lever all the way into Park.

Here's the full height of a manual boot:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Next, turn the boot inside out and pop apart the plastic grommet. This one was zip tied but not sure if that was factory:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Turn the boot right side out and measure the 2", and cut it off:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Turn the boot back inside out and reinstall the grommet. Turn it right side out again, and you are finished:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Special Note here: Because the 3G shifter sits much farther forward, removing some of the plastic trim ring in the boot is needed to let the lever move all of the way into Park. Here is the ring underneath:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Notch the center of the ring:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Now the boot is ready to install:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Here is the stock 2G auto shifter:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Pulled that out:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Bolt in the 3G shifter.

The Brake pedal release cable bolts right up with nothing but a little bit of adjustment, but the Ignition interlock cable requires a large washer to hold it further forward on the housing. The shifter post will not let the Transmission linkage cable slide on without first filing the nub on the end of the post off. The post is disappointingly soft and files fast. In the pictures you can see we drilled through it to add a cotter pin for safety.

Brake release and Ignition interlock cables:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Transmission cable:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



DO NOT FORGET to adjust the shift linkage:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



So here is the finished installation. Showing the lever in Park, in Drive, and in Manumatic mode:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


We're happy with the results. It shifts like butter, especially considering that the transmission linkage cable now crosses over to the driver's side of the shifter. Can't wait to get the wiring done for the FF controller to make the most of the work so far.
 
Last edited:

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
723
284
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
Wiring The ForcedFour Controller

Since the stock 2G shifter had a button on it to engage or disengage Overdrive (4th gear), the first step is to snip and solder the two wires together to make the factory TCU think the OD button is still present and is in the OD engaged position.

Here is the plug location on the 2G shifter. The wires are Black and Red, but on the harness side of the plug, the wire colors are Blue and Red.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Here is a picture of the factory TCU with the ForcedFour controller mounted on top. We used velcro to allow for some repositioning if necessary, and during the on car wiring, it turned out to be a good choice. We could relocate the FF unit temporarily to gain more room.

Next to the FF unit, is a 5 pole relay that turns one TCU off and the other on and vice versa. Shawn cautioned us that this was necessary to prevent damage to either controller. The on/off function is controlled by moving the shift lever from auto into manumatic position.

Behind the relay, is a switch we added. Flipping this switch allows the FF unit to take over automatic shifting control in case the factory TCU were to give out. It's doubtful that this would ever happen, but better to have the option now that all of the wires are so easily accessible.

Don't let this picture scare you away from installing your own ForcedFour controller. We were simply separating the wires into the groups of where they will be connected.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:

Salty-Seagull

Supporting Member
206
165
Jul 16, 2019
Kimball, Michigan
Wow, your car is turning out amazing!

Thanks for the heads up on the caliper bolts. I am in the process of tracking down the parts to do a rear disc conversion on my RS down the road, and those were not on my shopping list.. That would have been an unpleasant surprise, LOL.

Btw it looks like you accidentally tagged me in your manumatic transmission swap. I didn't make a write-up for that. 😁 It looks like it turned out great though!
 

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
723
284
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
Thanks for the compliment. We do mods to make driving more fun, and manual gear control will definitely be fully enjoyed.

You are correct, we were thinking of TheFlashDSM who did the write up and pictures. We fixed the tag, and glad to have you following along.
 

DogWhistle

Supporting VIP
723
284
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
Thank you. We’d seen it done on a couple of other cars of different brands over the years, so it was a go to when the shifter plate wasn’t even close to fitting. Many new import cars, such as Hyundai, come standard like this now for the cvt’s.

We were thinking of you when we discovered how thick the leather boot was, hindering shifting into Park. So far it’s working well.
 

Widgmaster

Supporting VIP
766
547
Aug 24, 2018
Sarnia, ON_Canada
Looking at your picture of the shift boot you are cutting... that is not leather... it is Naugahyde / Vinyl ... I can tell by the backing on the boot you are working with.. Good quality leather is even thicker than Naugahyde .. Any ways it`s a great job you did.. I`m impressed ...and what you did with your interior is beautiful.. If I still had my shop I would offer you a job......LOL
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com Raven Fabrication RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned VR Speed Factory

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top