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Sun-Burned ’99 Spyder GS: Revived

Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder N/T


Supporting VIP
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
Great build. Appreciate your details and pictures.

Glad I found this thread again, love the attention to detail you have on this car! Keep the post coming, I'm waiting for an after picture after the seals added on the bows.

Thanks. We just finished gutting the interior to install sound deadening, and while we had an empty interior, we FINALLY tracked down the source of the rain leaks. It wasn’t where we thought they were.

Here’s a link to the article:
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Supporting VIP
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
14. Full Interior Sound Deadening

Those of you who spent hours scraping factory sound deadening from your car to save weight will cringe at this step. For daily driving and occasional touring, the "DSM drone" gets to you after a while. So, we installed Noiko sound deadening mats. They are constructed of about 2mm of rubber, with adhesive on one side, and an aluminum vapor backing on the other.

At first we thought that simply removing the seats, console and carpet would give us enough access to the resonating panels, but we quickly learned there is no good stopping point, so we wound up gutting the car from dashboard to taillights. This turned into a bigger project than anticipated, but that pretty much describes every project ever undertaken on this car, LOL.

Here are the basic tools you'll need. The red marker makes it easy to see your marks on a black surface. The material will cut easily with a scissors for the long cuts, but the razor blade will help with corners and any overlap.


Removing the factory brittle sound deadening:


Rust preventative spray on the any raw surfaces:


We'll take as much help as we can get:


All prepped and ready to start installing -- or so we thought:


When installing the sound mats, do not precut them! You'll wind up with gaps around the edges of the area you were trying to cover. This is because the floor and braces are not straight or perpendicular to each other. Just peel the backing, start at one corner, and begin pressing down. You can cut the edges when you are done.

The manufacturer also talks about rolling the mat tightly onto the surfaces. At first this seemed like overkill, but we soon discovered that air pockets left under the mat will turn into pools of condensation and could start rust. Buy a roller and roll it tight.

Here is after the initial installation:




The trunk sides were going to be hard to do given all of their bracing, vents, wires and lights, so we decided to do the backs of the panels instead:



Here are the pictures with all the tunnel mechanisms and wiring bolted back in, and here is the padding we added for under the carpeting and under the rear seat:


After it was all back together, we did quite a few daily trips and then, a 350 mile road trip. The result is not a complete sound proofing of the interior, but it does dampen the exhaust drone, and, just as importantly, the tire whine. It feels like a more substantial chassis. The results are noticeable.
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Supporting VIP
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
15. Upgrade to GSX 4-Wheel Disc Brakes

The front disc/rear drum setup on the car provided adequate braking modulation, but didn't inspire confidence to push the car through corners on twisty roads. Plus, the heavy weight of the rear drums was not doing us any favors in the suspension department.

We ordered a set of GSX spec disc brake calipers (dual piston front; single rear), ceramic pads, new rotors, stainless brakes hoses and new ebrake cables (since the end fittings are different). We sourced the disc backing plates from a donor GSX and had them bead blasted, and then we seal painted them with POR15 with rustoleum top coat.

There are a couple write ups on how to do the conversion from rear drum to disc, but there are two things none of them mention: 1) Don't forget to buy bolts to attach the rear calipers to the backing plate. The size is M10 x 1.25 x 10mm, You'll need four of them. 2) Getting the clamps off the parking brake cables, and getting those lines out of the car is the most difficult part of the job. This is a Florida car, with virtually no rust, and yet those cable clamp bolts were corroded and tight. There are three clamp points for each ebrake cable, and 4 per side if you count the inside floor tunnel. The rear two finally came out with a little break loose spray, but each of the outside front ones had to have the bolt cut. We were VERY fortunate that our exhaust had v-band connections so that we could remove the back portion and get to the left side front clamp. Those cut bolts were replaced with stainless steel hardware, and everything we unbolted and reattached was slathered in anti-seize.

Here are the pictures of how the process went:


Rear disc brakes removed and the new backing plate fitted into place, with the hub beginning to be reattached. The drum ebrake setup was difficult to install after the hub was in place, so on the other side, the ebrake components went on first.


The finished front brake with the dual piston calipers. The disc is painted with high temp brake paint on both sides of the hub area to prevent rust from seizing it onto either the hub, or the wheel.


One side complete. A good friend helped with the project, but with the difficulty of removing the existing ebrake cables and a parts run for bracket bolts, it was a solid 9 hour project, start to finish.

As for the new feel of the braking system, it isn't a more sensitive pedal response, but when you do press into them, there is a lot more clamping force available. They are easy to modulate, but that is on the second half of the pedal travel. Apparently, a 3G master cylinder has a more firm feel due to moving more fluid per travel. We might upgrade to that depending on how the pedal feel is after the pads break in.
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Supporting VIP
Aug 24, 2018
Sarnia, ON_Canada
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Supporting VIP
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
[QUOTE="Widgmaster, post: 153775685, member:165098”] ...Just thought I would mention a color back solution to a black faded top . [/QUOTE]

Thanks. That looks promising. We’ve been looking for something like that. We’ll give it a try.


Supporting VIP
Sep 13, 2012
St. Paul, Minnesota
16. Forced Four & Manumatic Shifter

So we've been wanting to add the Forced Four Shift Controller to this build to protect the transmission with increased line pressure and to add better shift control during all driving situations. We also wanted the 3G manumatic shifter for bump up and bump down shifts.

I talked with Shawn at FF and explained to him that we wanted firm manual shifts, but softer auto shifts for daily driving. He determined that we would be best off running the FF controller in PARALLEL to the factory TCU, and switching between the two to get the Jekyll and Hyde personalities we were looking for.

This arrangement makes for a little extra work, but again, Shawn was very helpful in answering all of our questions.

To make sure we knew what gear we were in in the manual mode, we ordered the digital gear display. We wanted it somewhere in our line of sight, but really couldn't find a place to mount the cased version without drawing attention to it, so we decided to put it into the dash display, in the spot that previously had the "A/T Off" light, since that was no longer going to be used.

A. Dash Gear Indicator

The first step was to remove the gauge cluster from the car and disassemble it.
FF Unit Out.JPEG
FF Glass Off.JPEG
FF Bezel Off.JPEG

Here are the screws for removing the gauges. Caution: Each gauge uses the attachment screws to conduct electrical signals between the circuit film and the gauge. These screws are different sizes for different gauges. Don't mix them up or lose any of them:

FF Screws.JPEG

We removed all of the gauges and light bulbs, and then peeled off the circuit film:

FF Peel 2.JPEG

Since the gauge cluster plugs into fixed male connectors behind it, it is important to let the cluster assembly travel all the way back when installed. Fortunately, there is a hole behind the cluster for the display wire to pass through:


That means that there needs to be a hole through the back of the cluster housing to let the FF display wire through. Of the four screws holding in the speedometer, one of them is a non-electrical connector that lines up almost directly with that hole. We needed to enlarge the screw hole to 1/2" to pass the display connector and wire through:


However, the FF plug had grip tabs on it, making it not fit through the hole, so we filed off the tabs so that it was only 1/2" in size. Here you see the before and after pictures:

FF Plug Before.JPEG

FF Plug After.JPEG

We carefully slit the circuit film to allow the plug through. Then you can see how it looks when the wire is in the final position:

FF Circuit Plug.JPEG

FF Circuit Tail.JPEG

Next, we had to slightly modify the display by removing the center light lens and notching the mounting area for the display led:


This display was glued into place and then we placed foam around it to make sure there would be no light leaking when the gauge lights were on. Notice that some of the previous tinted light lens had to be trimmed and reinstalled above the display:

FF Foam.jpeg

During the trial fit, it became obvious that the led display was just slightly wider than the opening in the bezel face, so we had to widen this area slightly:


FF File Done.JPEG

We reassembled everything and tested the unit display. This picture makes the led look dim and overlit, but no matter how we took the picture, we could not show that the numbers were actually bright and crisp:

FF Lit Display.jpeg

Here it is installed in the car:

FF Dash Install.jpeg

We are extremely happy with how it turned out and are ready to begin the second part: Installing the manumatic shifter and FF Shift Controller.
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