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Stutter Box On Dsmlink

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91 white tsi

15+ Year Contributor
229
0
May 21, 2004
Springfield, Virginia
I was under the impression that when you used studder box it would make your engine think you were under load by cutting timing and you could build boost before the launch......i just did it and it doesnt build boost. Is the point just to be a WOT when you leave the line. cuz i feel the same launching with out is as i do with it. almost easier to not burn the clutch when you dont use it.
 
You should be getting boost. I get like 6-7psi with my 50-trim when I do mine which is set at 4500rpm.
 
I dont use the feature that often as I dont drag race my car much. But, i think you can build a bit of boost but its blown off when the BOV goes off (i think, like i said i dont use it much).

You may be thinking about the *anti-lag* feature. Read about it and be careful when you use it.
 
You definitely do build boost with the studder box.. that's the point of it. The bov shouldn't be opening since you're at WOT (or near it at least).
 
GPTourer said:
Is that not detrimental to the turbo/engine?

The stutter box isn't bad at all really. Now the anti-lag will most likely do some damage to the turbine wheel if you use it a lot because of the combustion right there next to the wheel.
 
GPTourer said:
Is that not detrimental to the turbo/engine?

Your thinking of anti-lag. I think the poster is too. It can be potentially be detrimental if you don't know how to use it. The stutterbox is simply lowering the rev limiter.
 
Yea whats the anti lag whats it do and whats the best way to use it??? I wish the DSMlink came with a booklet of how tos and what not. Its the studder box im using. set at 4500 rpms wot and it just bounces there but no boost. i do have a boost leak and can only build 6psi at the most. I was going to put on a FMIC this weekend so i figured id test for leaks after its on. but it still is at like 5 vac when i am doing it. My car is a rat turd. i paid more for DSMlink than i did for the car :rolleyes:
 
It's not instant either. You hold the studder and floor the gas. You will notice the studder sound eventually change the longer you hold it as boost is building and the turbo is spooling up. It doens't happen instantly. Hold it for 20-30 seconds and see what happens. I can get 10-12psi from my 50trim holding it for a long time. Eventually the brap brap brap gets longer and slower sound kinda goes to a poooop poooop poooop sound and the boost starts to build hard then. It's pretty cool, your probablly not doing it long enough.

Listen to the talon in this video so you know what im talkin about
http://racerubber.com/kingofstreets2.mov
 
Ive seen that video a hundred times but i always thought the turbo spooling was the supra......when he does a half assed one by himself in the begging he doesnt spool from what it sounds.....so thats the DSM that sounds like a jet??
 
Listen closely to when you hear the DSM go brap brap brap, you can hear the turbo in that bit. :)
 
Have you turned on the antilag? You should hear the backfiring if you do because it retards the timing to basically expode the mixture in the exhaust manifold. I can set mine at 10 degrees and it will build close to 15lbs in no time....not that I do it very often, but you have to admit shooting flames out your exhaust when its at 15 degrees is hot. Probably awful for my turbo but once can't be that bad. I run about 6 degrees most of the time when I got out looking to drive hard. The clutch checkbox has to do with NLTS. If yo uhae it checked and you keep it floored in between gears it will retard the timing to keep the turbo spooled.
 
well i guess my car is just a rat ass turd cuz i held it for like 30 secs and it changes to the brap brap brap after about 5 secs and didnt build boost or change again....also you can change the Rpm you want it to kick in at right? and turn it off it you wanted to? i have used the DSMlink yet just have the ecu in the car(no laptop) i did get the software for the palm but running an open O2 housing pisses the neighboors off so i cant really drive it right now. What is anti-lag??
 
ok, i'll do my best to explain the anti lag system as best i can, i'm not an expert on it so here goes:
the anti lag systen works by retarding engine timing so far that combustion occurs outside the cylinders, in the exhaust mani, or turbine housing, it does this to keep the turbo spooled fully when shifting. it shoots a flame out of the exhaust and gives a nice pop. you know what i'm talking about, ever watch wrc, and see flames shoot out of the exhaust when they shift? thats it. it allows to to be at full boost the moment you're back in gear. its called anti lag because it doesn't let the turbo slow its rotation, so theres no turbine lag in the next gear.
well, thats about it for the basic explaination, hopefully i didnt eff up too bad
:dsm: :talon: :laser:
 
DSMJim said:
It's not instant either. You hold the studder and floor the gas. You will notice the studder sound eventually change the longer you hold it as boost is building and the turbo is spooling up. It doens't happen instantly. Hold it for 20-30 seconds and see what happens. I can get 10-12psi from my 50trim holding it for a long time. Eventually the brap brap brap gets longer and slower sound kinda goes to a poooop poooop poooop sound and the boost starts to build hard then. It's pretty cool, your probablly not doing it long enough.

Listen to the talon in this video so you know what im talkin about
http://racerubber.com/kingofstreets2.mov




Whos car is that?
 
Antilag isnt just during shift points, in fact in dsmlink it has the option of not having antilag during shifts at all. I personally ran my antilag at 3* ATDC and could build full boost on my 16g by the time the rpms would hit 5500. I had it set to kick in at 4k rpms, so you would see the rpms rise as normal till it hit 4000rpms, then youd see the needle slow down as timing was actually instantly being retarded dramatically, so the power of the motor was lessened, but you could hear the turbo spool right up, and the boost needle would shoot very quickly to its peak. The feature works great, but isnt always used with studderbox, you must actually turn anti-lag "ON", it is it's own feature seperate from studderbox.
 
Do a search on the DSMLink forums, it is well discussed there as well as a few suggested settings for particular turbo's.
It is designed for spooling up larger turbo's, 16g's etc do not need it.
I am running DSMLink V2 and i cam get 16psi with my 16g off the line, did it once to see if it will work, then i just disabled it because it wasn't neccisary.
But as suggested above, fix the boost leaks first.
There is no need to beat on your car without it being in tip top shape, it is just not cool at all.
And yes using antilag is beating on it.
 
I have found that with my car setting the antilag to come on about 250 RPM before the stutter works the best for me. If I set it any other way I would get a bit of knock. Now with my longer 1st gear I use a 5250 stutter with timing fixed at 0* BTDC and 5% fuel enrichment. I see about 17-18 psi at the line. :thumb:
 
DSMJim said:
He is a dood from nabr.
:laugh:

Antilag is not that bad, you guys are over-reacting. I build 10lbs at a standstill. It great for saying "Hello" to any Mullet-Mobile that wants to play.
 
So am I confused or is the origional poster? I thought the studder box function was just to have a launch rev limit & had nothing to do with building boost? The antilag feature is for building boost without a load, is it not?
 
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