Stumbling on acceleration

[BWeston]

Ok so I bought another dsm yesterday, It was initially running on 3 cylinders due to no cylinder fire in cylinder 3. I changed the plugs, plug wires, coil pack, and power transistor. It's no longer missing, it has a nice idle to it though it surges a bit. It does not accelerate very much at all, at half throttle around 3k rpms and up it starts to break up like it's not getting fuel. So i changed the fuel rail that had a different stock 2g fuel pressure regulator, all 4 injectors, and I changed the fuel filter. It's still breaking up the same way it was before until it's not even hardly hitting at all. So I've changed all the ignition system components, and all the fuel components except for the fuel pump itself. I need you guys to throw in your 2 cents. I can't help but think it's the fuel pump.

 

[luv2rallye]

Check for boost leaks.

 

[BWeston]

Ok update, I cranked it cold this morning and it's missing throughout idle speed. There is no way it's the ignition system, i literally changed everything from the ignition system, and like i said the fuel rail, injectors, fpr, and fuel filter are from a running car as well. I haven't drove it down the road yet, but i'm about to test drive it.

Test drive was ok, it boosted good but it started cutting out again at around 4,500rpms+. still a slight miss at idle after it's warmed up. not too much surge either.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Time to do a boost leak test.

 

[phunny]

Like the other 2 members said, boost leak before you even post on here because that will take care of 80% of the problems.

 

[BWeston]

Time to do a boost leak test.

Yeah those woven hoses crack and they are hard to find that way. someone told me carb cleaner will find leaks in the intercooler pipes, is this a practical method of checking for leaks in the IC pipes? I'm going to pull the smic and clean it out with something as well.

Um ok, there is a P, E, and A vacuum nipple on the TB. Well the P is missing a nipple, and a line.

 

[Calan]

Someone told me carb cleaner will find leaks in the intercooler pipes, is this a practical method of checking for leaks in the IC pipes?

That's an old-school way of finding vac leaks. A better method is to do a proper boost leak test (BLT) on it with compressed air and soapy water.

 

[phunny]

Check out vfaq.com and you'll find everything you need

 

[woodnbronze24]

Make sure you are running ngk plugs

 

[zxrider_sa]

+2 on the NGKs

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

 

[zimfro]

+3 on NGKs. I had the same problem and it turned out to be that my plugs were not gapped right.

 

[zxrider_sa]

Didn't know how stubborn the 4g63 was and installed the new E3 plugs in. Started to have really bad hesitation, throttle response was shit and I could tell they were fouled out something terrible. Haven't installed the new NGKs yet (ordered, on the way) but I know what fouled plugs feel like and I know why. Just a noob, learning these cars little by little. That's why I'm here.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

 

[BWeston]

Yes i swapped from Bosch to NGKBPR7ES, it's idling a little better but its still missing and breaking up in boost. I'm changing the fuel pump tomorrow.

 

[Greeno]

I was always under the impression that a stock or lightly modified DSM ran better on the NGK BRP6ES plugs than the 7's... however I would be surprised if that was the cause of (all) your trouble

let us know how the search for boost leaks goes

I realized no one has linked you the Boost Leak Tester link yet... so here it is

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

 

[BWeston]

I appreciate the link, vfaq is very a very useful website. Maybe i could try the bpr6es

 

[Palmetto_TSi]

there is really no sense trying the new plugs. you have replaced everything in the ignition system. the BPR6ES is just a slightly hotter plug. It has less resistance and makes a hotter spark which will only help if you are already running properly. Believe it or not, most bogging is caused by too much fuel in the Air/Fuel Mixture. The boost leak test is probably your best bet. The computer is adding enough fuel to mix with full air FLOW into the intake. your boost gage is showing full boost PRESSURE, but that pressure could be escaping anywhere between the turbo and the intake.

 

[2ndGenTurbo]

are you venting your bov to atmosphere without running a maf translator or some type of tune? I've heard several people have similar issues with drivability due to running this type set up... you should be recirculating if you dont have a translator etc...

 

[milby43]

there is really no sense trying the new plugs. you have replaced everything in the ignition system. the BPR6ES is just a slightly hotter plug.

Im pretty sure the bpr6 are the stock ones. And the bpr7 are the hotter ones.


Just dont use platinum plugs

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Im pretty sure the bpr6 are the stock ones. And the bpr7 are the hotter ones.

You're correct in saying that the bpr6es are the stock ones, but the bpr7es plugs are actually colder. The higher the number with ngks, the colder the plug is.

A bpr5es would be hotter.

 

[dboyle23]

Sounds like a bad boost leak. Do a BLT and check all your IC pipes, throttle body, fuel injector seals etc...

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Sounds like a bad boost leak. Do a BLT and check all your IC pipes, throttle body, fuel injector seals etc...

I guess he'd rather put in a new fuel pump and hope that fixes it instead of doing a proper boost leak test first.

 

[dboyle23]

I guess he'd rather put in a new fuel pump and hope that fixes it instead of doing a proper boost leak test first.

It's funny. Ask a question, receive good quality responses, and then do something else

Are you getting any CEL's?

 

[Black'95]

Definitely plug that 'P' port that's missing the line. That is a definite boost leak. Here's a link to some vacuum diagrams.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/330326-vacuum-hose-routing-diagram.html

there is really no sense trying the new plugs. you have replaced everything in the ignition system. the BPR6ES is just a slightly hotter plug. It has less resistance and makes a hotter spark which will only help if you are already running properly. Believe it or not, most bogging is caused by too much fuel in the Air/Fuel Mixture. The boost leak test is probably your best bet. The computer is adding enough fuel to mix with full air FLOW into the intake. your boost gage is showing full boost PRESSURE, but that pressure could be escaping anywhere between the turbo and the intake.

Actually, the 6ES plugs don't give a hotter spark, rather they dissipate less heat to the head, keeping the spark plug tips and cylinder temps higher. Here's a great post by one of the site moderators explaining spark plugs. If it helps anyone at all, I just put new NGK BPR8ES plugs in my car yesterday (mods in my profile). So far so good....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/233421-spark-plug-faq.html

 

[BWeston]

are you venting your bov to atmosphere without running a maf translator or some type of tune? I've heard several people have similar issues with drivability due to running this type set up... you should be recirculating if you dont have a translator etc...

no, my bov is stock, and it's recirculated back into the intake.

I guess he'd rather put in a new fuel pump and hope that fixes it instead of doing a proper boost leak test first.

I didn't buy a new fuel pump, thats stupid. i had a donor car with a fuel pump.

It's funny. Ask a question, receive good quality responses, and then do something else

Are you getting any CEL's?

No, I'm not getting any CEL's at all.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Definitely plug that 'P' port that's missing the line. That is a definite boost leak. Here's a link to some vacuum diagrams.

Ignore the P port. Unless someone effed with it - that's how it comes from the factory.

I didn't buy a new fuel pump, thats stupid. i had a donor car with a fuel pump.

The point is, before doing the number one thing you need to do, you swapped your fuel pump, that's stupid.

You should have perform a proper boost leak test prior to checking your plugs, even. For all you know, you could have had your car running 100% in 15minutes time. Instead, you've invested far more and still have a broken car.

Let us know how the BLT goes.