Stumbling?!

[punishercb]

For some reason my car is stumbling whenever I accelerate at full throttle. I really notice it in 3rd through 5th. It stumbles only at certain rpm's, the engine bucks and kinda stumbles. It doesn't shut the engine down, it just stumbles and then picks back up real quick. I really have no idea what is causing this. I only have a intake. I also used Sea Foam and that didn't solve the problem either.

Any ideas?

 

[cool_g_83]

Anyone? I think im having this same problem.....

 

[andymoraitis]

Here's the simple guide to tumbling:

1. Change plugs and gap to .028
2. Pressure test for boost leaks
3. Change plug wires
4. Change fuel filter, if not done recently

Hope that helps,

Andy

 

[luv2rallye]

Also test the coil as stubbling or studdering at more than half throttle is often a weak spark problem.

 

[punishercb]

I'll definately do that too. Just curious, what does it cost for a new coil pack?

 

[scaryc]

i have the same problem, but it happens worst before the engine reaches operating temperature, i do have some random wires from the part store people tell me to replace. but it doesnt seem like that would make a big deal. the stumbling causes the car to buck and sometimes when the engine is cold it will stumble so bad the whole car shakes , but only at low rpms from about 1800 to 2200 and then it's fine over that

 

[punishercb]

Well, it's getting even worse. Today me and my buddy who has a 1992 Katana were "testing our speed limits" and my car was bogging from around 3-4.5k and then 5-6k. I'm really getting pissed. I can't change the plugs or wires right now because I'm over at school and I don't have a garage. I'll be changing them this weekend, but does anybody else have any other ideas what I can check?

So far:
1. Plugs
2. Wires
3. Coil pack
4. ???

Thanks

 

[Patterson]

Well, it's getting even worse. Today me and my buddy who has a 1992 Katana were "testing our speed limits" and my car was bogging from around 3-4.5k and then 5-6k. I'm really getting pissed. I can't change the plugs or wires right now because I'm over at school and I don't have a garage. I'll be changing them this weekend, but does anybody else have any other ideas what I can check?

So far:
1. Plugs
2. Wires
3. Coil pack
4. ???

Thanks

punishercb, it is definately an ignition problem. the bucking you're experiencing is due to misfire. check the timing. (including belt). keep us posted.

 

[GTM]

Here's the simple guide to tumbling:

1. Change plugs and gap to .028
2. Pressure test for boost leaks
3. Change plug wires
4. Change fuel filter, if not done recently

Hope that helps,
Andy

You guys you guys, practicing medicine without a license! Maybe I should start passing out NEGATIVE points and let you figure out why.

It never ceases to amaze me how free you are at SPENDING some one else's money without asking any questions as if you are some authority just by reading a paragraph. Would it be any less irresponsible if I told him it was his transmission.

Think of it as your car and how would you feel if someone sent you off buying $100 in parts and hours of work when all it needed was to tighten the intake manifold bolts. I'm not saying that's the problem, just illustrating that all you people are doing is uninformed guessing. It would have been reasonable to ASK how old xyz parts were so you don't look so foolish when you learned they had already been changed.

You wouldn't want your Doctor to diagnose your illness with so little info. I'd at least ask if he's pulled any codes, and a half dozen other questions before I suggested he spend his time checking or money.

So let's see how you can now help the guy out.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[96' Talon ESI]

same happens to my car, it usually happens for me from 3,500 and up rpm's. im going to get new spark plugs this friday and see if that fixes it. but if it doesnt should i check the timing?

 

[punishercb]

Haha, well thanks for all the help so far. I still appreciate everyone's help. But just everyone konws, I haven't changed the plugs or wires since I bought it and I don't know the last time that they've been changed, so I plan on doing that this weekend. About the coil pack, is that really necessary? If so, what do you think it will cost?

thanks all,
Chris

 

[luv2rallye]

Coil packs for 2g's are expensive. Replace your plugs first (cheap). If still have problem, pm me with your email address and I'll send you how to test the plugs, spark cables, coil, and power transistors right out of the Mitsu manual. I agree with GTM: Don't waste money replacing parts on guesses.

 

[spatulahunter1]

im having the same problem, i started having it yesterday after i did the wastegate solenoid restrictor mod (im not sure if its related in any way) i also know i need to change my O2 sensor which should be in at the shop tommorow could that cause this condition? I know because of that the car is running hella rich. Any ideas? This only seems to happen at WOT. Am I safe to drive the car like this until i can fix the problem?

 

[GTM]

Coil packs for 2g's are expensive. Replace your plugs first (cheap). If still have problem, pm me with your email address and I'll send you how to test the plugs, spark cables, coil, and power transistors right out of the Mitsu manual. I agree with GTM: Don't waste money replacing parts on guesses.

Yes, yes, yes!

The idea when troubleshooting is not to throw the kitchen sink at it for you may just hide the problem or even make it worse and then you don't know where or what was changed.

A quick spray of the plug wires and coil tops with WD-40 might just fix everything.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[96' Talon ESI]

ok i got good new spark plugs, put them in, and it still does this what should i try next?

 

[punishercb]

Thanks alot for the help all. It turned out to be the plugs. I checked them as soon as I got home friday(ahhh.....summer break) and the gapping was .048?! I bought new plugs becuase I recently bought the car and don't know the last time they were replaced. Runs like a champ now! Now I'm wondering what caused the plugs to change like that. The only other time they came out was when I checked my comression a few weeks ago and I didn't even mess with them. I took 'em out and them back in, that's it.

 

[96' Talon ESI]

ok well my stumbling is still occuring and its worse now. now when i push the gas more it kinda like bogs down but if i have it 1/4 the way down it is fine. and i got the bosche platinum spark plugs with the 2 prong things for spark and i got them because on the because on the box it said no gapping needed so i figured i would get them because i thought it would take care of the gapping problem. should i get different ones that have a .38 or w/e gappingor should i bring it into the shop? because it is under warranty.

 

[punishercb]

Holy bad punctuation batman!

Anyways, you might want to try using a throttle body cleaner. Does your car stumble at idle? I have a dodge avenger with the same engine as yours, and it used to stumble and sometimes stall at idle. A can of throttle body cleaner fixed everything and it ran like a champ. Also, you might want to check to see if your spark plug cables are bad.

 

[GTM]

ok well my stumbling is still occuring and its worse now. now when i push the gas more it kinda like bogs down but if i have it 1/4 the way down it is fine. and i got the bosche platinum spark plugs with the 2 prong things for spark and i got them because on the because on the box it said no gapping needed so i figured i would get them because i thought it would take care of the gapping problem. should i get different ones that have a .38 or w/e gappingor should i bring it into the shop? because it is under warranty.

The factory gap on the Bosch should have been fine. I'm not sure what you mean by 1/4 down... I suspect you are talking about the BISS screw which is the air bleed and responsible for the idle. Since you have been playing with it you know where it was set. I would suggest you use a good quality screwdriver and count exactly how many turns to get to the seat. Remember this number write it down if necessary, now unscrew exactly 3 turns and see if it still continues to stumble. If it does you can at least return to the original setting. It may still be covered by warranty and by all means you should see if this is covered for they may have some responsibility though tune up type problems usually are not.

Let us know what happens.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[96' Talon ESI]

yes it has a 6 month warranty. but what i ment by 1/4 the way down it was the gas pedal but i know why its doing that. and sometime my car stalls when im moving and i push in the clutch while shifting, the rpm's get so low it shuts off the car. and i will go buy some throttle body cleaner tomorrow.

 

[GTM]

yes it has a 6 month warranty. but what i ment by 1/4 the way down it was the gas pedal but i know why its doing that. and sometime my car stalls when im moving and i push in the clutch while shifting, the rpm's get so low it shuts off the car. and i will go buy some throttle body cleaner tomorrow.

Argh, we got to get on the same wave length so I don't have you tweaking the wrong thing.

Not a fix by any means but can be of use while trying to solve the problem. Make your shifts a bit faster and tune your ear to road speed vs gear change ratio vs gas pedal release along with clutch should not be total but just a lift to match those conditions. The way you are doing it probably is causing the clutch to slip more than needed as you fumble for clutch, gear, and throttle. Truly an art like a line of music where things flow in natural cadence.


Learning to double clutch, heel and toe, can also make you a better driver. If you have a passenger watch their head out of the corner of your eye if it moves forward while changing gears you need to work on timing, if it moves back you are being too abrupt. You can drive a car without a clutch and this may teach you how to release the throttle and match rpm to the gear selected. Do consider that rarely would you ever have the throttle at idle and it may be the fact that you are in motion, the throttle / ECU speedo sensor are trying to figure out your intentions. This may be far fetched guessing as to exactly what is going on that is contributing or the source of your complaint. ?? I am not there and cannot determine the merit of what I have suggested.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[punishercb]

Huh, so are you saying that you can shift without making you passengers lean foward? huh......I guess I need to practice

 

[GTM]

Huh, so are you saying that you can shift without making you passengers lean foward? huh......I guess I need to practice

I guess you didn't need my help after all.

Good luck to you.
GTM

 

[jesterbot]

Hate to be offering such a simple answer when everyone else is going overboard on ignition issues... but a boost leak can offer similar symptoms:

1. car runs fine at idle, or low throttle...
2. when you give it more gas and thus more airflow, it starts dumping air out the leak
3. the car doesnt know this since the leak occurs after being calculated for (MASS)
4. so the car is flooding the engine with too much fuel for too little air, causing it to bog

Answer? Check all fittings along the intake/intercooler track, turbo, etc. Mine have blown loose twice causing the same problem.

This may not be your answer, but it's a free fix if it is!


J.

 

[madmader]

96' Talon ESI

jesterbot could be on to your problem. If you don't start tell it's up in the higher RPM's and it's related to your amount of fuel/ or boost pressure.

If it ideals fine i would think your plugs/wires would be acceptable. You can always run an ohm test on them and make sure they are within spec before going out and spending money on new ones.

Plugs should have been gaped from factory. Just go back to the part store and verify if the plugs are for your type of engine.

that would save you almost 100$.