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Stubborn Crank Bolt

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Miasma

10+ Year Contributor
434
35
Aug 22, 2012
Fort McMurray, AB, Canada
Hey everyone,

I picked up a 4g64 from a outlander last week and have it fully stripped down except for the short block because I can not for the life of me get the crank bolt loose.

The engine is fully disassembled so I am able to jam the crankshaft with wood. I have tried a breaker bar, pneumatic impact and an electric impact. Today I even tried a torch on it. Unfortunately all I have is a butane torch.

After all my tries this bolt honestly feels like whomever put it on last used jb weld or something...I'm getting frustrated becuase I need to get this block of to the machinist for my rebuild.

I'm at a lose here and could use some advice, although I feel like I've tried it all...:confused:
 
We had one like that last year. Had to get it cherry red with the acetylene torch. Came off like butter then. Literally.
 
You clearly have not ever had one snap. Forcing things is not the right way. If you have spent some time around machinists they will tell you you don't just go after things. I speak from direct experience.

Once you heat it an impact with a 7/8" or 22mm socket will take it right out.
 
I heated it for about 5 minutes with my other torch and finally got the darn thing out. I tried my breaker bar before taking out my impact guns again, and I was surprised that it broke loose with the breaker bar. :thumb:

I finally got the engine fully stripped down so that I can fully blue print it all. I will take lots of pictures for when I finally start a build thread on this.

You might want to think twice about trying to use that Outlander block...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/428378-newer-4g64-2g.html

I am aware that a newer 4g64 block does not properly fit into a 4g63 2g. That being said, I am doing the rediculous task of mounting this in my 420a 2g. The motor's orientation fits and with a cylinder head from an evo 4-9 it will fit. The drivetrain will be the more difficult part. I have not posted anything on this yet, because I am just starting to get into the fun stuff and been saving it for when I've got the new setup in. I have done hours of research on this project, and I am excited to have it done. I plan to have it up and running by next summer. I am in no rush, since I expect multiple issues to arise.
 
Just wanted to make sure you were aware! :thumb:
 
You clearly have not ever had one snap. Forcing things is not the right way. If you have spent some time around machinists they will tell you you don't just go after things. I speak from direct experience.

Once you heat it an impact with a 7/8" or 22mm socket will take it right out.

You're right, I never have. And again, heat!!! Lol

Very bad idea.
 
Please shed your wisdom oh wise one. Tell us why it is so bad. The OP did as he was told and it came right out.

What do you think they use to straighten crankshafts that a too far off to grind straight?
 
Please shed your wisdom oh wise one. Tell us why it is so bad. The OP did as he was told and it came right out.

What's the point? You wanna-be "mechanics" will do whatever the h3ll you want anyway. And when you screw the car up you'll scam someone else to buy it.

If you can't figure out why to not heat a crank bolt you shouldn't be touching a car anyway.
 
Way to dance around the question. Maybe you should look around. I am not some retard you can sit behind your computer and talk smack about blindly. I have certainly proved myself and most of the cars I play with are in big boy land. Can't say i have seen anything overly impressive from you that you ACTUALLY built anyway.

Enough about that, you drug this off topic. Problem solved with the advice he was given.
 
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