Strange Clutch Issues...

[cl1ckclack]

So last night, I installed a new slave cylinder, since mine was leaking, and while i was at it i installed an extended rod into it from ExtremePSI. I also went with a full stainless master to slave line. I spent a good 2 hours last night bleeding it, and finally got it to feel right, and disengage properly... But i went to get in the car this morning, and had almost no pressure and the car would not go into gear. Any ideas what happened? We just got 6 inches of snow today, so i have not had the opportunity to go out and really look anything over...

 

[curt-s]

Is there another issue that caused you to want to install the extended slave cylinder rod? There are very few actual reasonable cases where one is required, and is usually a band-aid fix to cover up other issues. If you just installed it for fun, I'd go back to a stock rod, adjust your pedal, and try again. That way, if it still occurs, we can go about diagnosing an issue using proper stock parts.

Also, any issues under the master cylinder boot under the dash? Any issues with clutch assembly? Shifter assembly good? .. is there still fluid in the system and reservoir? Was the bleeder valve blocked off, causing pedal pump-up?

 

[cl1ckclack]

Is there another issue that caused you to want to install the extended slave cylinder rod? There are very few actual reasonable cases where one is required, and is usually a band-aid fix to cover up other issues. If you just installed it for fun, I'd go back to a stock rod, adjust your pedal, and try again. That way, if it still occurs, we can go about diagnosing an issue using proper stock parts.

Also, any issues under the master cylinder boot under the dash? Any issues with clutch assembly? Shifter assembly good? .. is there still fluid in the system and reservoir? Was the bleeder valve blocked off, causing pedal pump-up?

I tried one out because when i bought my slave from extreme, they recommended it. everything is still good, and there is fluid in the system. The clutch was also properly bled when doing so, so no pedal pump up, i drove it home from the shop last night.

 

[1Gina2G]

Not to hijack this thread or anything, but I have a cupple of clutch-bleeding questions, I've only done it once, but I used jafromobiles video on youtube, worked out great.

Am I the only one that thinks it's unusual for taking 2 hours to bleed a clutch..? Isn't it all about the air noise?

when you crack the valve, having the pedal pressed in, is the pedal supposed to STAY IN BYITSELF after you re-close the valve??

 

[dsmcurse]

yes, thats normal. pump the pedal hard, hold it down, crack the slave bleeder loose, pedal looses pressure as its already on the floor, close the bleeder on slave, pedal needs to be PICKED up by hand to start all over.

 

[9D9X]

Here is the best way to bleed and adjust your clutch. Works very very good... http://www.teamrip.com/how_to_properly_bleed_a_hydraulic_clutch_info.html Clutch Pedeal Adjustment - Team Rip Engineering

 

[cl1ckclack]

well ive ordered a new master cylinder, and will be putting the OEM rod back into the slave when i do so.

 

[curt-s]

Not to hijack this thread or anything, but I have a cupple of clutch-bleeding questions, I've only done it once, but I used jafromobiles video on youtube, worked out great.

Am I the only one that thinks it's unusual for taking 2 hours to bleed a clutch..? Isn't it all about the air noise?

when you crack the valve, having the pedal pressed in, is the pedal supposed to STAY IN BYITSELF after you re-close the valve??

yes, thats normal. pump the pedal hard, hold it down, crack the slave bleeder loose, pedal looses pressure as its already on the floor, close the bleeder on slave, pedal needs to be PICKED up by hand to start all over.

Yep.

However, 2 hours is way too long, even if you're inexperienced. Not doing it solo is the trick

It depends on how much air is in the system after fluid is added, but I figure it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes.. which equals out to around 25-30 pump & valve opening sets which is crazy by itself. If there's still tiny air bubbles after 15 minutes, there's likely a tear in a seal or something else going on.

 

[cl1ckclack]

EVERY SINGLE PART of my clutch system has been replaced now... and it still wont work. the only way i can get the car to go in and out of gear is by closing the valve in the master, and pumping up the system...

 

[cl1ckclack]

any chance that by doing this, we could have ruined one of the seals in the master cylinder? causing this issue?

 

[pauleyman]

What about flywheel step height and the pedal assembly.

 

[cl1ckclack]

The pedal assembly has been checked for play, not sure what else you are supposed to do? and the flywheel is a new fidanza from extremepsi

 

[1990dsmkid]

could it have something to do with a worn down pivot ball/clutch fork? just thinking of other things that go bad and need to be replaced

 

[cl1ckclack]

could it have something to do with a worn down pivot ball/clutch fork? just thinking of other things that go bad and need to be replaced

Nope, also replaced the fork, pivot ball and TOB while i was in there.

 

[cl1ckclack]

what the heck happened to the post that was just made? but to answer the question, i have tried both rods. and i have a ACT 2900 PP...

 

[gst96spyderman]

I pulled a dumb ass and posted before looking at your mods list. my fault. How about you master to slave lines? SS?

 

[cl1ckclack]

I pulled a dumb ass and posted before looking at your mods list. my fault. How about you master to slave lines? SS?

weird... i got the email about the post, and then didnt see anything whem i checked, but yes, a full stainless line.

 

[pauleyman]

is a new fidanza

New doesn't mean it's correct. Step height needs to be set for whatever clutch you're running. The only way to be sure is to measure it yourself.

 

[cl1ckclack]

New doesn't mean it's correct. Step height needs to be set for whatever clutch you're running. The only way to be sure is to measure it yourself.

i talked with extremepsi when i bought it, and they assured me it was to factory step, and i havent heard anything about needing a different step height with the clutch i am using

 

[gst96spyderman]

I've been on extremepsi ALL day today looking at what I need for a COMPLETE clutch replacement. Was all the hardware, i.e. fasteners, seals and such replaced as well? I have read this, and am a little drunk, so forgive me, but are you able to see where the leak is coming from? I know these are basic questions...

 

[cl1ckclack]

I've been on extremepsi ALL day today looking at what I need for a COMPLETE clutch replacement. Was all the hardware, i.e. fasteners, seals and such replaced as well? I have read this, and am a little drunk, so forgive me, but are you able to see where the leak is coming from? I know these are basic questions...

yup. everything has been replaced. and what leak? i dont believe there is a leak unless i was sent faulty parts.

 

[gst96spyderman]

So there is no loss of fluid, just no pressure building up?

 

[cl1ckclack]

no loss of fluid, and there is pressure, just not enough to fully disengage the clutch

 

[Vr4allday]

did you adjust the master rod? had same issues. just have to get it at the right point.

 

[bscratch]

Faulty new slave cylinder? Have seen it before definitely not unheard of.....also "pumping" the clutch could cause the air pockets to move around, therefore one pump per bleed is usually the most acceptable method. Also as others have said get yourself a volunteer this is always faster and more productive! Also if you can get a clear bottle fill it a quarter of the way with fresh brake fluid and run a small vacuum hose from the slave cylinder bleed nipple into the bottle that way air will go into the bottle but if u happen to not close the valve in time fluid will be sucked up and not air!! Also check your master cylinder!! Good luck!