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stock BOV whistling

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destrux

20+ Year Contributor
85
1
Nov 27, 2002
Tamaqua, Pennsylvania
My stock BOV does its intended job fine, but the damn thing whistles like crazy when I'm at a constant throttle cruise. It seems to do it whenever I'm at like 30mph cruising through town, which really makes my car look great :rolleyes: . I remember reading about someone who had this problem before, but has anyone come up with a solution? I couldnt find anything in a search. I already crushed it a little to hold more boost, but that didnt really affect the whistle.
 
Nope, that's normal for the 1G BOV. The only solution that I've heard of is to replace it. But, the whistle doesn't cause any negative effects. Other than that, do a boost leak test to make sure you aren't leaking anywhere. Sometimes gaskets or vaccum lines will whistle slightly.
 
My 1g BOV does the same thing. It's annoying, but now I barely hear it. Then all of a sudden I realize I'm hearing it and I'm annoyed again. :) As soon as I have another spare BOV, I might try some different things to see if I can stop the whistle. Might be a while, though.
 
I took my bov off today to look at it and I noticed that the valve doesnt seem to use anything but a metal to metal seal. I wonder if it doesnt whistle because of the metal disc sitting a little crooked when the valve is just barely cracked opened. I thought the disc was possibly vibrating to cause the ringing/whistle noise, but I stuck a piece of dynamat (sound deadening does have it's uses...) on it and it made no difference. I think I'm going to try slowly opening the bov with a vac pump and blow air through with the shop air hose and see if I can recreate the whistle.

From looking at a breakdown diagram I found of the 1g bov I came up with this list of possible reasons for the noise...

  • Disc is crooked and creates an air whistle at slight openings
  • Disc is loose on shaft and rings like a dropped coin under slightly open conditions
  • Air passes between the shaft and disc and whistles
  • The general shape of the bov inside plus the pattern of airflow at slightly open conditions
  • The angle that the bov flange is in relation to the IC pipe creates the whistle

Right now my bov is slightly crushed, but from what I saw today I dont have it crushed nearly as much as most people do... I have it dented in about 1/8 inch and some people push it till the nipple is just barely touching the edge of the lid. I am going to try crushing it further to see if it affects the noise at all. I imagine since both crushed and dodge garage modded bovs are held closed with more pressure then if one mod fixes the noise that the other mod would too... but I guess we'll have to wait and see. I dont plan on trying the dodge mod, I have been hearing more and more people who have been unhappy with the amount of surge they get during normal driving conditions. It seems that if you do that mod you also need to get some kind of solenoid kit to switch between fast and slow release operation automatically.


Right now, all I know, is that I'm getting sick of waiting for RTV to dry.
 
I took the BOV off and crushed it further, and the whistle moved to a different "area". Now it only does it under slightly high vaccum conditions (like decelerating in gear). I have the bov crushed to the point where the nipple is just barely touching the side of the hat now. I dont really mind the whistle now that it doesnt do it when I'm at cruise speeds or while I'm coasting at 25mph through town. The BOV functions fine and I dont get any surging or fluttering.
 
destrux said:
I took the BOV off and crushed it further, and the whistle moved to a different "area". Now it only does it under slightly high vaccum conditions (like decelerating in gear). I have the bov crushed to the point where the nipple is just barely touching the side of the hat now. I dont really mind the whistle now that it doesnt do it when I'm at cruise speeds or while I'm coasting at 25mph through town. The BOV functions fine and I dont get any surging or fluttering.

This is exactly what mine does, it is also crushed. Only happens at decel. Its been like that for at least 3 years with no issue's.
 
Reviving thread from the dead.

Has anyone ever fixed this whistling issue on a 1g bov when cruising at like 30mph? Does crushing the bov help at all keeping it closed at these vacuum levels? I have mine recirculated and if I am going 30 in town, the bov will just start whistling until I let off the gas or give it more, which makes me start to speed. It's too annoying to run like this so I am using an NGR type s for now, but I'd like to go back to the 1g if possible to fix this problem.
 
Pretty sure it's just a resonance issue, possibly from the valve piston being metal (the same valve which comes stock on GT-R's now has a plastic piston). The problem seems to get worse if you have hard intercooler piping versus the stock plastic piping or rubber hose for whatever reason. I've run the valves 100% stock, crushed, Dodge Garage Modded, and they all honked.
 
Pretty sure it's just a resonance issue, possibly from the valve piston being metal (the same valve which comes stock on GT-R's now has a plastic piston). The problem seems to get worse if you have hard intercooler piping versus the stock plastic piping or rubber hose for whatever reason. I've run the valves 100% stock, crushed, Dodge Garage Modded, and they all honked.

Dang, thanks for the info Justin.
 
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