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Starts but needs alot of cranking

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Spanky_DSM

10+ Year Contributor
1,159
3
Sep 28, 2010
El Paso, Texas
Ok i had replace my fuel pump while waiting for my alternator to be rebuilt! Next day i got the alternator and after installing it started right up! Everything was good. Two days later i started hearing a really low humming noise from the engine bay. Another day later i go to start my car and it started acting up.

The car takes about three, five sec. cranks to start. on cold or warmed up starts.
any advice would be great. Thank you. :)
 
Did you check the battery voltage? My guess is that you may have a drain somewhere killing the battery.
 
Check for fuel leaks. My car was doing the same thing when I had a fuel leak at my fuel rail. When I fixed the leak the car fires after 3 or 4 cranks now.
 
Check the oring and hat on top of fuel pump. Make sure they are not cracked or split. I had a similar issue, car would always start but after a few seconds of cranking. Anyway the problem is the oring can split and not allow the pressure to stay in pump after you shut car off. So what happens is when you go to crank car to start, you have to wait till pump fills back up. Which in the long run is bad for the pump. The reason I'm saying is you did say you just replaced the pump. Really look at the oring and hat for cracks or rips. I bet this could be the problem. Hope that helps ya. Oh and the reason your not stalling or cutting out is Because once the pump fills back up it will keep pumping and keep pressure built. But once you turn car off, because the oring can't hold the pressure. The gas leaks down and out the pump. Anyway this may not be your problem, but it's the first place I'd look.
 
Check the oring and hat on top of fuel pump. Make sure they are not cracked or split. I had a similar issue, car would always start but after a few seconds of cranking. Anyway the problem is the oring can split and not allow the pressure to stay in pump after you shut car off. So what happens is when you go to crank car to start, you have to wait till pump fills back up. Which in the long run is bad for the pump. The reason I'm saying is you did say you just replaced the pump. Really look at the oring and hat for cracks or rips. I bet this could be the problem. Hope that helps ya. Oh and the reason your not stalling or cutting out is Because once the pump fills back up it will keep pumping and keep pressure built. But once you turn car off, because the oring can't hold the pressure. The gas leaks down and out the pump. Anyway this may not be your problem, but it's the first place I'd look.

thanks so much for that reply? and is the oring the black gasket around the screw on cap of the fuel pump, because that gasket us abit torn up. The second time i took off the fuel pump i did notice it didnt drip as at all. So maybe ## right. Then again it wasnt doing this problem for the first few days so I dont know.
 
Ya the oring is black and the hat is like tan. It pushes up into the pump assembly. When I first installed my walbro 190 way back when. I had similar results the first like week it started great. Then it slowly started getting worse and worse. So I decided to see why and also was installing my 255 pump. That's when I noticed that not only was the oring ripped, but also the hat had cracked. So new hat and oring, all is well again car fires right up.
 
The o-ring/spacer/retainter cap (hat as called above) are in between the feed of the pump and the actual metal pipe that the pump is pushed into.

If they are broken (mine is) then you'll probably want to look into upgrading to a walbro 190/255 as I haven't been able to find NEW retaining caps anywhere. I bought the one I have now, used, but it was cracked when I got it. With a walbro install kit a new oring/spacer/retainter cap come with it for the walbro itself
 
You can always just buy a walbro pump install kit. This will come with everything you need but the pump. Looking for link right now, when I find it I'll post.

I looked into that, but the problem was that the retainer cap didn't fit right. That's what I read when I was looking for a new one, so I can't personally say whether or not that's true.
 
well my fuel tank sending unit gasket is quite cracked and rotten! Could that be the cause that my fuel pressure goes down every time my car is turned off and having to crank n crank for it to start! heres a pic of it in this link! Im going to go ahead and order it since my old ones is beat up! Thanks :)


OEM MITSUBISHI GASKET | FUEL TANK / SENDING UNIT GASKET | 95-99 AWD DSM
 
some guy just off of work looked at my car and said he had similar symptoms and it turned out to be his fuel pressure solenoid. sounds like that may be the obvious solution. I also hear a whine coming from the engine bay so that just convinced me as well.
 
I only had time to read the OP, but did you make sure the banjo bolt connecting to the fuel filter eyelet was lined up with the high pressure fuel lines? I don't know if that could cause it, tbh. (Because you said it runs fine after starting)

I mean, was it acting up and so you decided maybe try a new fuel filter, or did the problem happen only after installing the fuel filter?


Sorry; at work
 
Last edited:
I only had time to read the OP, but did you make sure the banjo bolt connecting to the fuel filter eyelet was lined up with the high pressure fuel lines? I don't know if that could cause it, tbh.

I mean, was it acting up and so you decided maybe try a new fuel filter, or did the problem happen only after installing the fuel filter?


Sorry; at work

thanks for the reply. and it started acting like this after i replaced the intake manifold gasket and fuel pump. after those 4days later i started hearing a little whine from the bay. then another 4days later it started acting up like this.

Thats when i replaced the fuel filter.
 
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