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2G Starter signal wire not getting 12v when key is turned

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954g63gst

10+ Year Contributor
228
24
May 24, 2012
gardner, Massachusetts
I just bought a car last year change the engine. It was a six bolt I changed back to the seven bolt running engine and I’m getting everything fired up.

I go to turn the key and I don’t have 12 V to the signal wire. The power wire has 12 V, the ground is hooked up to the starter bolt, intake manifold has a ground from the manifold to the firewall.

What is the path from the ignition to the starter signal wire for me to check stuff. So from the ignition I believe it’s connector 63 under the console and then from there I’m lost. At where I need to check for 12 V.
 
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I usually recommend you start at the starter solenoid and work back but you can save time by starting in the middle and work to the failure point.

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So I found that the starter relay might be bad. I used another from a car I bought that was sitting all ripped apart and that was bad as well!

I think that because once I jump pins 3-2 or 3-1. The starter cranks when I turn the key. So I ordered new ones today for both cars since they were both bad I think.

Relays just came in today wish me luck!

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Jumping 3 to 2 should result in the same as jumpering 3 to 4. Jumpering 3 to 1 should result in blown ignition fuse if the CSS was connected and working.

It would be simple to test the relays assuming you have a multimeter and a 12v battery.

Measuring the resistance between 3 and 4 with nothing else connected should give close to 0 ohms (short).
Measuring the resistance between 3 and 4 with 1 and 2 connected to the battery should give close to infinite ohms (open).

If the relay doesn't click when 1 and 2 connected to the battery then it's either bad or you have the wrong pins.
 
Check if your car has alarm. Check the theft alarm starter relay down by drivers kick panel.
It did have a weird device under drivers side kick panel I believe I removed it. I’ll have to recheck I know this has been a while but if I can get the wiring more standard the better
 
I know it sounds dumb, but check you battery terminal connections. I had this happen recently. I put a new battery in, and mounted a terminal slightly cocked. It caused the harness connection to battery terminal to not sit flush, and therefore not give enough power to kick on the starter. I was tracing down all types of things, swapping MPI relays etc.

I figured it out by following voltage from the battery to the fuse panel, to the MFI fuse etc. Verifying voltage at every step. I see someone gave the chart up there
 
I have power right up to relay. But I think theirs an immobilizer that I disconnected. I bought the shell and pulled the motor. Car didn’t run for ten years. I threw in an engine and here we are car starts now. But I am trying to not have the relay jumped I get power on one end. But not the other. I need to figure out the wiring under the steering column and see what needs to be put back I think. Cause the ignition makes the click and one red wire has power. The other dont
 
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