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SSAutochrome Header

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Mattitude v1

15+ Year Contributor
250
0
Oct 20, 2003
City, Alaska
Does anyone have this header?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=7922561024&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

How does it compare to Greddy and DC Sports? I noticed the 4 to 1 pipe conversation takes place a lot sooner than in the Greddy header. Is this bad for air flow? Also has anyone noticed any gains with this header, company claims 15-20 horsepower, I know that's highly exagerated but a DC header dynoed at 9 more, so I want to know which header to go with.
 
Mattitude v1 said:
Does anyone have this header?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=7922561024&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

How does it compare to Greddy and DC Sports? I noticed the 4 to 1 pipe conversation takes place a lot sooner than in the Greddy header. Is this bad for air flow? Also has anyone noticed any gains with this header, company claims 15-20 horsepower, I know that's highly exagerated but a DC header dynoed at 9 more, so I want to know which header to go with.
Check out my gallery, I've been using that ssautochrome header for a year now, not one problem.
edit some people will tell you its not real stainless and all that, I can tell you it is. Do a magnet test, magnets won't stick to stainless. They will also tell you that it is shit, but it has the thickest flanges I've ever seen on any header, v-8 and down. my opinon is I like it and so do a half dozen others.
As far as horse power claims, eh I needed it as my manifold was cracked(I didn't know until I actually went to replace it with the new header) So of course my performance picked up. It is a bit louder, especially with a CAI.
 
I have it and it is not so good. Call up www.fastfabrications.com in about a month. He's preordering a few full race longtube headers that even replaces the stock cat. est gain of 15whp, as opposed to 1-2hp on standard aftermarket header. Made off the same design AF/X made for the neon header (he used ot work for AF/X). Also AF/X was in design to make a 420a one, but not sure when that'll be done.
 
Initial DSM said:
I have it and it is not so good. Call up www.fastfabrications.com in about a month. He's preordering a few full race longtube headers that even replaces the stock cat. est gain of 15whp, as opposed to 1-2hp on standard aftermarket header. Made off the same design AF/X made for the neon header (he used ot work for AF/X). Also AF/X was in design to make a 420a one, but not sure when that'll be done.
If I get a header pipe that gets rid of the cat, is there a way to pass inspection without swapping it with the old one? I heard of some people shoving something into their muffler.
 
i have it and like it....


How the hell is a header supposed to give you 15whp w/ no cat? I dont beleive it....Your going to have to explain that better... :D
 
i just recieved mine in the mail on saturday but havent had time to put it on yet. when i do i will let you all know if i like it or not. as for looks, its very nice, all the welds are clean and it looks like verything is put together nice. i cant wate to get it on there... :thumb:
 
I was wondering where exactly is this full length race header? It doesn't show up on the site, oh except a 420a turbo header.Isn't ours a full length?They aren't shorties or equal length.

Again I want to put my .02 in. I love the header, I have found absolutely nothing wrong with them. Someone posted about bad welds, nope not on mine, I have nice clean welds, inside and out. Someone also bitched about them changing colors, uh yeah they are stainless, look at real stainless pipes on a bike, they blue a bit. Actually mine are still quite silver. They sound good.
The one thing I recommend to the guy with the new header, or anyone getting ready to install any header. GET LOCK WASHERS. They don't come with any install kit I've seen. Go to home depot, pick up a dollars worth(about 10) And some lock tite, the red kind. Make sure you use a torque wrench also ,I stress the use of a torque wrench as well as torquing to spec(read the book). The lock washers and the lock tite will ensure that your header bolts wont back out. It happens to any header cheap or not.
 
Redmachine said:
I was wondering where exactly is this full length race header? It doesn't show up on the site, oh except a 420a turbo header.Isn't ours a full length?They aren't shorties or equal length.

Again I want to put my .02 in. I love the header, I have found absolutely nothing wrong with them. Someone posted about bad welds, nope not on mine, I have nice clean welds, inside and out. Someone also bitched about them changing colors, uh yeah they are stainless, look at real stainless pipes on a bike, they blue a bit. Actually mine are still quite silver. They sound good.
The one thing I recommend to the guy with the new header, or anyone getting ready to install any header. GET LOCK WASHERS. They don't come with any install kit I've seen. Go to home depot, pick up a dollars worth(about 10) And some lock tite, the red kind. Make sure you use a torque wrench also ,I stress the use of a torque wrench as well as torquing to spec(read the book). The lock washers and the lock tite will ensure that your header bolts wont back out. It happens to any header cheap or not.

what are the torque specs? im installing mine thursday. anyone know what they are?
 
GSGoinFast said:
what are the torque specs? im installing mine thursday. anyone know what they are?
hey I looked it up just for you:
18-22 ft.lbs do it in a criss cross pattern to ensure proper seal with the gasket, I remember when I did mine I torqued to 25 because that was the lowest my torque wrench could be set for. Remeber lock washers and loc tite :thumb:
 
miamieclipse said:
i have it and like it....


How the hell is a header supposed to give you 15whp w/ no cat? I dont beleive it....Your going to have to explain that better... :D

Do a search on several neon forums for AF/X or fast fabrications long tube header, theyve dynoed them. In any case, If I do decide to further mod my rs as na, I'll get one and perhaps dyno test it myself if I have time off from my talon project.

as far as passing inspection question earlier, prolly not. just do inspection with stock header on then later switch it, or just pay someone extra to look the other way etc.
 
Thats a no-no, my little bro does state inspection here in Houston, He has to report everything or risk going to jail :thumbdown
 
Redmachine said:
hey I looked it up just for you:
18-22 ft.lbs do it in a criss cross pattern to ensure proper seal with the gasket, I remember when I did mine I torqued to 25 because that was the lowest my torque wrench could be set for. Remeber lock washers and loc tite :thumb:

why thank you, i appreciate it. do you have to scrape off your old gasket? or does it just come off? i dont have any experience with this. thanks for the help.
 
GSGoinFast said:
why thank you, i appreciate it. do you have to scrape off your old gasket? or does it just come off? i dont have any experience with this. thanks for the help.
it should just come off. Make sure you clean the surface before you install the new gasket, there could be some left over whatever on the head , you want a nice clean surface to install the new stuff. Also prepare to torch some stubborn bolts. The ones that hold the flex pipe and the manifold are real tough, I had a air grinder I just cut it off, but if you dont have access to one I would use a torch.
Another tip, when you finish up, your gonna be all excited to hear what it sounds like, but wait, wipe off your new header or you'll have permanent grease prints burnt right into the surface. Take your time. It took me and my dad around 4 hours to do, but I had stubborn shit to cut out, yours might be easier because it's newer.
Good luck hope you have fun :thumb:
 
Redmachine said:
it should just come off. Make sure you clean the surface before you install the new gasket, there could be some left over whatever on the head , you want a nice clean surface to install the new stuff. Also prepare to torch some stubborn bolts. The ones that hold the flex pipe and the manifold are real tough, I had a air grinder I just cut it off, but if you dont have access to one I would use a torch.
Another tip, when you finish up, your gonna be all excited to hear what it sounds like, but wait, wipe off your new header or you'll have permanent grease prints burnt right into the surface. Take your time. It took me and my dad around 4 hours to do, but I had stubborn shit to cut out, yours might be easier because it's newer.
Good luck hope you have fun :thumb:

ya im planning on taking off the heat shield tonight, and spraying all the bolts that need to be removed with wd40. ya i learned about not cleaning it off, just ask mike, he always complains about how he has finger marks all over his. what do i clean the surface with? any special chemicle? and does anyone know if you can use regular taps to thread stainless steel?
 
GSGoinFast said:
ya im planning on taking off the heat shield tonight, and spraying all the bolts that need to be removed with wd40. ya i learned about not cleaning it off, just ask mike, he always complains about how he has finger marks all over his. what do i clean the surface with? any special chemicle? and does anyone know if you can use regular taps to thread stainless steel?
I used dawn dish soap and a bucket of warm water dired it off with a clean towel, then did a nice coat of never dull. Shit worked great. What are you planning on tapping, I didn't have the need to, just curious.
 
Redmachine said:
I used dawn dish soap and a bucket of warm water dired it off with a clean towel, then did a nice coat of never dull. Shit worked great. What are you planning on tapping, I didn't have the need to, just curious.

i had to tap it for EGT. but i did that today. i just took the thing that is suppose to go into the header that came with the egt, and with some wd40 i slowly turning it in and slowly turned it out, and then slowly threaded it in a little farther. and so on and so on. then the last time, i put some thread sealant on it, and screwed it in a tad bit farther then before. we will see how that worked tomarrow when i install it. thanks for the specs.
 
well installed the header and downpipe today. not that big of a deal. except the damn bolts into the cat that had never been taken out before. they had to be torched... but the only complaint i have is that the bolts for the head were scary short. i was to scared to use them, so i used stock with some lock washers. torqued down at 22 and i was ready to roll. i have the headers, downpipe, stock piping and a Ractive muffler... it was a deep sound, but now its even deeper and i gained no raspyness. i also have a short ram intake and port and polish on the head. i like the extra respose i got with the headers and i can even feel a slight torque gain. i give it... :thumb: :thumb:

so anyone that wants a good cheap header.... check this one out..
 
WhtEclipse705 said:
well installed the header and downpipe today. not that big of a deal. except the damn bolts into the cat that had never been taken out before. they had to be torched... but the only complaint i have is that the bolts for the head were scary short. i was to scared to use them, so i used stock with some lock washers. torqued down at 22 and i was ready to roll. i have the headers, downpipe, stock piping and a Ractive muffler... it was a deep sound, but now its even deeper and i gained no raspyness. i also have a short ram intake and port and polish on the head. i like the extra respose i got with the headers and i can even feel a slight torque gain. i give it... :thumb: :thumb:

so anyone that wants a good cheap header.... check this one out..

ya i started it today, and ran into the same problem. everything is easy except for those damn cat bolts. they both stripped like a bi***. so now one is out and its fine, but the other is the remenents of a bolt. no head, and a giant hole in it as we tried to easy-out it. its a bi*** but were almost done with it. one question i have is, what did you do with that little monting bracket thing that comes off that radiator line and goes accross the front of the engine. you know it hangs down and is in between 2 bolts, and under the other bolt is the manifold? how did you get around that? thanks
 
here this is what im talking about.. what did you do with this thing?
 

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Nice work my 2g NT brethren! Sounds like a worthy mod 4 sure. I want to get headers for my my 1g. Does SS make em for us 1gers? Because I've already go I/E just need to add the H if jah know what I mean.
 
GSGoinFast said:
here this is what im talking about.. what did you do with this thing?
it gets bolted into the header, fits no problem.
sorry link didnt work, check my gallery nice shot of what you need
As far as the cat problem you ran into, try having both bolts snap off then not having a easy out. I had to start a pilot hole then move to a huge titanium drillbit and bore it out.took like 2 hours. But I got nice new stainless nutz and bolts there now so when I finish my exhuast, I don't have to replace it.
 
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