Squealing from motor/tranny

[DeNoZZo]

When my car is in neutral, and the clutch is out, I can hear a sqeaking or squealing sound coming from what seems like the transmission. I know the last owner put a new clutch in right before I bought the car 3000 miles ago. I was thinking it might be the throw out bearing going bad. What do you guys think? BTW, It's not super loud, but loud enough for me to hear it inside only when the windows are down/.

 

[xdxoxuxgx]

It sounds like it could be the throw out bearing, though that's more of a metal to metal tapping sound.

 

[lo_boost]

I also think its the tough out bearing. How long ago did he replace the clutch? Was it a brand name or ebay clutch? Could be normal chater too.

 

[DeNoZZo]

The clutch would have been replaced about 4000 miles ago, He said he used an oem clutch. I didn't even know ebay made clutches .... That worries me to, because he had an ebay muffler put on.

 

[xdxoxuxgx]

If he replaced the clutch, that doesn't necessarily mean that he replaced the throw out bearing too.

 

[lo_boost]

The good news is. Its just a little noise. I wouldnt worrie about it too much. Just dont beat on it too much

 

[DeNoZZo]

The good news is. Its just a little noise. I wouldnt worrie about it too much. Just dont beat on it too much

We'll i noticed it a few days after i bought it (go figure). And it's done it ever since.

I made a video, but you can't really hear anything other than my lifter tick. I'm going to post it just to make it seem like I didn't just waste 10 minutes. Just tell me everything seems normal.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i73.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid73.photobucket.com/albums/i216/cal64us/IMGP1877.flv">

 

[WCDSM]

Well, does it change sounds when you push the clutch in?

 

[DeNoZZo]

yes, the sound goes away when i push the clutch in even just the smallest amount.

 

[grnchevyz]

yes, the sound goes away when i push the clutch in even just the smallest amount.

ToB is crapped out or on the way out. I'd get a new OEM one and replace it very soonish. Don't think you'd want one of em blow up in there....

- Lou

 

[DeNoZZo]

ToB is crapped out or on the way out. I'd get a new OEM one and replace it very soonish. Don't think you'd want one of em blow up in there....

- Lou

Are you sure? It's done it since I got the car and has no problems shifting. I know that a new tob is pretty cheap, but approximately how much will labor cost for a shop to do that?

 

[Laser_Time]

That is definitally the throw out bearing mine is making the same noise. Pop the tranny off and replace it with a new one,they are not that expensive. You can also inspect the clutch while you are in there. I need to do mine soon too.

 

[grnchevyz]

Are you sure? It's done it since I got the car and has no problems shifting. I know that a new tob is pretty cheap, but approximately how much will labor cost for a shop to do that?

If you feel confident enough, and have access to a buddy and a lift, 4-5 hours taking your time and you can do it yourself...its pretty straight forward. Shop charges...well that depends on the hourly rate or if they do it by the book. The dodge dealer here tells me its 2.5 units to replace the ToB at $89/hr. I'd have to say you can expect between 250-400 for shop fees PLUS fluids replacement/top up. I can get you a complete write up if u want to do it yourself.

- Lou

and yes I'm sure...shifting will be no problems but you will hear noises when down shifting and when the clutch isn't engaged. when you start getting the down shifting noises, its getting closer to the end.....

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

The clutch would have been replaced about 4000 miles ago, He said he used an oem clutch. I didn't even know ebay made clutches .... That worries me to, because he had an ebay muffler put on.

EBAY doesn't make clutches... EBAY is just a way to sell things. They don't make anything! People referring to EBAY things are noname brands sold on EBAY. i.e. EBAY E316G, EBAY BOV, EBAY MUFFLER, EBAY FMIC, EBAY Strut Tower Bar, EBAY Intake, and on and on. Therefore sold on EBAY not made by it.

Does buying an ACT 2100 on EBAY make it an EBAY clutch? No, it's still an ACT 2100. Therefore an EBAY clutch would be a noname brand clutch that was sold by someone through EBAY...

But, yea your problem sounds like your TOB is bad go to the dealer and grab and OEM one and replace it. Also while you're cruising EBAY pick up some 3g lifters it will make your car quiet as hell!! No more lifter tick.

 

[DeNoZZo]

EBAY doesn't make clutches... EBAY is just a way to sell things. They don't make anything! People referring to EBAY things are noname brands sold on EBAY. i.e. EBAY E316G, EBAY BOV, EBAY MUFFLER, EBAY FMIC, EBAY Strut Tower Bar, EBAY Intake, and on and on. Therefore sold on EBAY not made by it.

Does buying an ACT 2100 on EBAY make it an EBAY clutch? No, it's still an ACT 2100. Therefore an EBAY clutch would be a noname brand clutch that was sold by someone through EBAY...

But, yea your problem sounds like your TOB is bad go to the dealer and grab and OEM one and replace it. Also while you're cruising EBAY pick up some 3g lifters it will make your car quiet as hell!! No more lifter tick.

ok you got me there... But i meant a cheap knockoff clutch.


And show me the writeup grnchevyz. . I think with the help of a few buddies, I could do it. But i don't know where I could use a lift for 5 hours.

 

[grnchevyz]

Don't need a lift per-say....I'll get you a write up using stands/engine lift and a driveway!

 

[DeNoZZo]

Don't need a lift per-say....I'll get you a write up using stands/engine lift and a driveway!

Thanks man!

BTW- how long do you think my current one will last me? It's been consistently making the same noise for about 3 months now. I cannot hear it when just driving, only at idle while next to a wall or something. It's really pretty quiet. I only ask because the absolute earliest i would be able to try it myself is thanksgiving weekend.

 

[grnchevyz]

I can't answer that question....but for the write up, here is one for ya...if I missed anything, let me know.

Also, remember to NEVER lie under the tranny while removing it...its a heavy motha and awkward when removing it this way...just take your time, get a Chilton manual and follow this and their instructions...otherwise, if you're not too comfortable with this, 250-400 should be the cost to get it done at a reputable shop.

-------------------------------

Jack up car's front and rear end, secure with jack stands


Step 1 - Removal of braces

1- Remove all bolts from braces under transmission, rad support and block
2- Remove braces and put aside

Step 2 - Removal of axles

1- Get a catch pan for fluids ready
2- Remove front wheels
3- Remove brake calipers
4- Remove wheel hub nut
5- On driver side there are 2 bolts on the back of the block about 3/4 of the way to the transfer case (AWD) remove those bolts.
6- Remove upper table nut (single nut on top of wheel assembly with a cotter pin through it)
7- Remove tie-rod end from wheel assembly
8- Remove axles from transmission (Passenger side) and transfer case (Driver side) placing catch pan under it to catch fluids

Step 3 - Removal of Transfer Case/Drive Shaft

1- Remove 4 bolts on rear end of the dirveshaft
2- Remove both brackets holding driveshaft to frame
3- Remove driveshaft by sliding it out of transfer case
4- Remove all bolts securing transfer case to transmission
5- Remove transfer case by pulling straight out of transmission (careful its surprisingly awkward)

Step 4 - Transmission prep

1- Remove ALL wiring/connections from transmission.
2- Remove starter bolts
3- Remove starter
4- Remove upper piping, battery, battery tray (it will make things easier)
5- Remove transmission bolts leaving one on top and one on bottom only to hold it in place
6- Place pump jack with block of wood under oil pan and jack it up so its snug
7- Place a second pump jack under transmission and snug it up
8- Remove rear mount bolt
9- Remove front mount bolt
10- Remove side mount

Step 5 - Transmission removal

1- Remove remaining 2 bolts out of transmission
2- With one person standing on passenger side of the car and only balancing the transmission from above, release pump jack under the transmission slowly and work the transmission out. (It might take a bit but be patient)


At this point, replace ToB, fork and pivot ball.

Re-instalation is the exact opposite of removal. Just be patient while aligning the transmission it might take a few minutes to get it aligned. Once all is back in and torqued to spec, make sure to refill the transmission fluid.

 

[MichaelSuch]

There's no real way of telling when the ToB is going to totally crap out on you. In my old truck the ToB sounded like it was going out one winter, then suddenly it stopped doing it one day and haven't heard it make any sounds for about 7 months now. We also have a tractor with the ToB that is going out but we've been running it for a long time like that. I imagine the sound will change (get louder or make more of a grinding noise) when it keeps getting worse. If I were you I would just change it out when you have the time to do it, otherwise I personally wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

[DeNoZZo]

thanks a ton Lou! you make it sound simple


How do I install the TOB, fork and pivot ball though? Or is that self explanatory? This transmission stuff is pretty new to me.

 

[grnchevyz]

once the transmission is out, there are 4 components inside and 3 you will want to change (maybe 4)

1. ToB clip (can be reused if you don't get a new one)
2. Clutch Fork (clips on pivot ball)
3. Pivot Ball (threaded in housing behind clutch fork)

Might as well change those at the same time.

and yes, once its all out, its pretty straight forward to install it all.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Also if you have any problems with the clutch engagement aka pedal travel before disengagement. Now would be the time to fix that. If the clutch was new and they did resurface the flywheel that distance needs to be made up for by shimming the clutch ball. Taking material off of the flywheel surface changes the geometry of the hydraulic clutch system. If engagement/disengagement is a little too close to the floor, I would add a washer or two. Don't know if you are having this problem but now would be the time to correct it while you're in there.