The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Sputters when engine is cold

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SleepingTsi94

15+ Year Contributor
261
0
Apr 24, 2006
Corn, Iowa
I got new plugs which are a step colder. And some new spark plug wires I got today that I thought was causing the problem. When I go to give it gas and take off it sputters and acts like it wants to die. And sometimes is does. But after a little of driving the car seems to drive fine. What do I need to check that could be causing this?
 
make sure you didint bump any plugs off your sensors, kinda sounds like a MAF issue because of the warm up, they have a temp sensor in them, try checking ALL the sensor plugs to make sure there plugged in then get back
 
All sensor are plugged it. I just drove it home from work and you get on the gas and it sputters and then lets go and seems to be fine.
 
if its ok on normal drive until you hit the gas it really does sound to me that it could be either dirty fuel filter, injectors, MAF or just a lil stuffy. sometimes for a fast fix this works. grab some carb cleaner and rev the engine to about 3500 rpm while spritzing in the cleaner. it will try to stall out so dont hold the knob on the can just rev spray rev spray rev spray. or if you have access to kerosene try it with a lil of that its PERFECT for eliminating water from the throttle body. if all else fails my friend. and just for ish and giggles unplug the wire from the MAF and see if its worst. and this stuff happend before the new wire and plugs correct?
 
All sensor are plugged it. I just drove it home from work and you get on the gas and it sputters and then lets go and seems to be fine.

Check the Enging coolant temp. sensor(it's the one below thr thermostat with the 2 prongs). With a ohm meter if the sensor showes open you found your problem. If not keep looking.
 
So it doesn't sputter when running at proper operating temp?

Your stage colder plugs don't use the turbulance in the combustion chamber properly to blow clean the gap. . . When she's warm there's enough turbulance to overcome the shallower plug depth. I wouldn't worry. I don't drive my car until she's warmed up anyway. . .

BTW i'm running one stage colder too. And it runs fine after it warms up. This is the drawback to colder plugs. So still have good cold idles. But not me. . .
 
Well the temp sensor is new I replaced that not to long ago. As far as plugs running the ngk 7's. I never had a problem until couple days ago. Seems like it just getting worse. I changed the clutch last week. And when I did it I just took the vacuum lines off the tb and plugged the ports. Along with the ones that run the fuel sensor and to the thermo housing. And I plugged up the holes on the egr valve and along with the ones below the battery that I cut. And it ran just fine for the whole week until couple days ago. So do I start by running all the vacuum lines back up and hope for the best. Also I noticed on my bov I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak. But from looking at my boost gauge there is no leak. Its hissing out the bottom port of a greddy bov.
 
I'd do a boost leak test again. You did one already right:D ?

A smallish boost leak could cause the colder plugs to foul 'over time' slowly building up. Have you pulled your plugs since this sputtering began?

I've never had a real problem w/ my NGK 7's. But I'm a friek. I've never gone a month w/out running a boost leak test. . . or pulling the plugs for that matter.
 
Yes pulled plugs. They were white/gray. Seemed fine since I have no been boosting for breaking in my new clutch. I never had a problem before using the colder plugs untill now. I hooked all the vacuum lines back up. Still there. Give it gas and it like wants to die. My bov on the bottom nip sounds like a vacuum leak. Which never did it before. Just left unhooked. (Greddy bov) and has vacuum 2 it. Driving me nuts. What are some things to test? Could it be the coil?
 
Yes pulled plugs. They were white/gray. Seemed fine since I have no been boosting for breaking in my new clutch. I never had a problem before using the colder plugs untill now.
Boost or not white/gray is quite lean!!!! beyond stoick! You're not getting proper fuel during accel moments. . .

My bov on the bottom nip sounds like a vacuum leak. Which never did it before. Just left unhooked. (Greddy bov) and has vacuum 2 it. Driving me nuts. What are some things to test? Could it be the coil?

The bottem nipple is the "balance port". You've got a significant leak whether or not you disconect the port from the intake system. . .
 
Let your car warm up til the air/fuel gauge starts to bounce around. That is if you have one. I would also wait til the RPM's are around 810-850 before even taking off. I warm my car up everyday due to this same problem. If I drive it cold I get performance reminissant of a horse drawn carriage. Let it warm up before you drive it and you should be better off.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top