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Spark Plug and Coolant Question

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inspire

10+ Year Contributor
104
1
Jul 20, 2012
757, Virginia
Ok I have 2 questions that I want to ask at the same time. I would like to know what plug I should run on my car it is time for new plugs due to a misfire in cylinder number 4. Came up on the logger that it is out, which is believable because I have been fixing boost leaks all weekend and they havent been changed out since I bought it new. I am on stock fuel set up for now, on around 13psi on the stock T25. If anyone has the part number so I can go in and easily retrieve these from the local parts store I would greatly appreciate it.

Also when I did a code scan on the car for the check engine light it came up that the car is not running in "closed loop" I have no heat inside the vehicle. I am wondering if it because the thermostat is stuck open. If there is any other possibilities please let me know because I want to resolve this issue asap. Its cold outside haha. And I am tired of pooring water on the windshield in the morning.
 
you should run NGK spark plugs that's what i run. that's what our cars had out of factory also. make sure you put a little anti-seaze before you install them. makes them easier to get out when you change them.

it could be the thermostat stuck open. before you try and change it make sure the coolant level is full and make sure the air is gone out of it. air in the system made my air cold when hot.
 
Run NGK for sure. I can't remember what plug is best. But you'll have someone tell you. I would look up in my catalog for you. But I'm not at the shop today.

As for the coolant question check your thermostat. Also do a pressure test if you have a tester. Remember to only go to like 20 pounds!
 
Someone told me to go one step colder. Not sure if it was true figured I would ask. I will check coolant and such I may just replace the thermostat to be safe. Any other words of wisdom? Thanks again.
 
If your at stock power go with the stock plug: NGK BPR6ES.

To check the thermostat, just let the car warm up and feel the lower radiator hose. If it's cold, the thermostat is stuck shut. I would recommend replacing it with a legit Mitsubishi thermostat, or at least a Fail-Safe from Oreilly. I have seen dozens of cheap thermostats that were bad right out of the box. I went through 4 myself in 2 years before coughing up the cash for a Mitsu.

But there are multiple reasons that the car could be stuck in open loop. Here's the parameters for closed loop operation:

On a 2G any one of the following will cause the ECU to not enter closed loop.

Throttle position too high
Airflow too low
Engine Coolant temp < 51F
Engine Coolant temp > 228F
The O2 sensor did not cycle for the last 128 seconds while running in closed loop mode.

In addition for it to update the fuel trims while it's in closed loop all of these have to be true
Engine Coolant temp >= 180F
Intake air temp < 133F
22.9 inHg <= Baro <= 31.6 inHg
 
run ngk's 6 or 7's for sure. the best mix for coolent is 70% water and 30% coolent you can look that up anywhere on this site or google. as for the closed loop i cant remember off hand since i just woke up LOL. there are a few things that can make the car do that. search and read!! im sure you will find out why pretty quick.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I used to be a big fan of the Fail Safe Thermostats until recently their quality seems to have gone down. Last year had 2 of them back to back that were bad. When I talked to the guys at Oreilly where I bought them, they said it's been happening more frequently of late. Long story short, my whole cooling system, pump, radiator, hoses, replaced, machined the head and did hg replacement for 2 bad thermostats...won't ever buy one of those again!!


If your at stock power go with the stock plug: NGK BPR6ES.

To check the thermostat, just let the car warm up and feel the lower radiator hose. If it's cold, the thermostat is stuck shut. I would recommend replacing it with a legit Mitsubishi thermostat, or at least a Fail-Safe from Oreilly. I have seen dozens of cheap thermostats that were bad right out of the box. I went through 4 myself in 2 years before coughing up the cash for a Mitsu.

But there are multiple reasons that the car could be stuck in open loop. Here's the parameters for closed loop operation:
 
Thanks for the info. I appear to have a bad o2 sensor as well. The parts list is getting up there pretty quick. I rarely drive the car. I am going to check into all of the things that everyone has mentioned. I was planning to replace with a oem thermostat. I will honestly probably do everything that was mentioned above. I bought the car about 6 months ago and I have wanted a turbo talon for years so when it comes to maintenance I go all the way through with everything. Clutch went bad I replaced everything that went along with the clutch working properly. I Always try to stay ahead for my own self assurance. All of these things sound like very very likely sources and I will be sure to search around for more info. Thanks guys I really appreciate yalls time and help.
 
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