sound like a wheel bearing?

[badabing33a]

Ok so i had a flat tire so i put the donut on. i drove probably 30 miles total. when i got home, i smelled brake dust so i checked it out. the wheel was real hot. so i turned the garage light on and seen the shaft from the spindle where the big nut goes on was snapped off. this really sucks and i need help. does it sound like a wheel bearing?

 

[brownfinger]

I gave up on headers, too. I got pointed to a OEM style cast iron manifold for $43, shippedhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-mitsubishi-ECLIPSE-90-94-93-92-91-part_W0QQitemZ370123010681QQihZ024QQcategoryZ33632QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
so maybe IDK how to paste URLs

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

Holy crap where's your castle nut?! It looks like you snapped off the entire end of the axle. It should poke through, then there's a large washer and castle nut that goes onto it, then a cotter pin goes through it to make sure the nut doesn't spin off. You're missing: the end of your axle/washer/nut/and pin! Try pushing the axle through the front of the hub. Whoever did your axles might have forgotten to put the washer/nut/pin back on (extremely dangerous!) and the axle has slid back almost out of the hub.

 

[badabing33a]

My uncle put the nut on while i put the drivers side on. but i know for sure both washers were on. no one really knows why the end of the axle snapped off. ideas turn to the heat generated from the wheel bearing. the car is apart now but i took it up the road (donut wasnt on, another 17 was on) and it drove fine. i looked it over and nothing else came off. so, i drove around near my house again. this time for 30 mins. still drove fine. then i pulled over, checked it out, fine. until i put it in reverse. wouldnt move. i drove maybe a mile back home. i got the burnt grease smell when i pulled in the garage. wheel & hub were hot again, heard the hurming noise, and my friend that was following me said sparks came out for a couple seconds. the hub and everything is off now. when i take the axle out, ill get pics of everything. besides the axle and wheel bearing, it all looks normal. i really want to find some answers as to how the axle snapped.

 

[brownfinger]

If the axle snapped from heat generated by a bad wheel bearing, the hub would have been damn near incandescent. Seriously. Provided that your brake isn't dragging, it seems to me that it was as simple as a faulty/substandard stub axle. Maybe the wheel bearing took out the axle, maybe vice versa. I'd say you need a new bearing and a new half-shaft, and then you're safe to move on to your next mysterious ailment; "My rear wheels fall off when I use my turn signal, WTF?",etc. What did you and your Dad use to tighten the axle nuts?

 

[darryloake]

stop driving your car like that. especially around your neighbourhood, if your wheel falls off and u hit someone your facked. u broke ## axle is the bottom line. replace your axle stop debating it. get a new wheel bearing. get new brakes. new knuckle and make sure you have a shop press your bearing on, anyone who tells u to smack it on with a hammer is a retard. take your new spindle to a shop with your new bearing and have ti pressed on might cost 10 dollars. put it all back together and get an alignment. what are you tallking about wears through tires ina week? if it wears through tires in a week dont u think something needs to be changed? im not trying to be rude but you need to take your car to a reliable shop or get rid of it.

good luck

 

[badabing33a]

we used a torque wrench and torqued it according to the specs. the alignment is really effed up. like i said before, just by looking at them, u can see the front tires are both toed out. or look like have positive camber. so the very outside part of the tire is whats taking all the abuse. i tried getting it aligned. a week before my wheel bearing/axle issue came about. they told me to get a new ball joint. got it the night my car broke. anyways, i got everything torn apart. im getting the parts tomarrow, and getting my wheel bearing pressed at a garage. the guy that owns it races against me in the dirt modified class. this is a pretty simple job. i don't remember what the specs were for the axle nut but does anyone know? and ill get ahold of my uncle and see if he remembers.

 

[brownfinger]

I still think you got a rebuilt axle that shouldn't have passed inspection. A remanufactured unit with a cracked stub axle.
Haynes manual is missing the spec for the axle nut. The text says it's in the table/on the list, but it isn't. I went to the dealership, and they couldn't find their book. We all just decided that 140-170ft.lbs. should be OK. Maybe 200. If your torque wrench goes to 150, do that, then go to the next hole that lines-up.
Mine hasn't broken off yet. Knock on wood. I've done it many times.
You can set your toe yourself on a smooth concrete surface. Maybe just for emergencies like yours you don't need to be mad-scientist precise, put two pieces of angle iron against the tires. Angle iron is straighter than 2X4s. Prop them up on bricks or 4X4s or whathaveyou that are all the same height. This is to raise the angle iron above the bulge at the contact patch. Measure 12 1/2 inches in front of and behind the axle CL. Make marks. Use a level vertical at the axle if you want to be mad scientist. Use your tape measure to compare the track at the front marks versus the back marks. Get them within 1/8 inch of each other.
Congrats! You've just done a complete and total 4-wheel alignment on a 1G fwd DSM!
Further mad-scientist instructions: After each tie-rod adjust., roll the car back-and-forth a few feet to re-center the wheel, then re-set-up the jig.

 

[badabing33a]

I got ahold of my uncle and he thinks it was 160ft/lbs. so that can be ruled out. you make a great point. i think the reman axle probably shouldnt have passed. doesnt really make sence why itd snap like it did. and as for the alignment, i already adjusted the toe. it was off when i put the new crossmember in. so i changed it before driving it. but the "tilt" of the wheel (aka camber) is effed up. there shouldnt be any camber in road cars. only oval track cars. but both front wheels have excessive positive camber. im not sure how to change the camber. thants why i took it and tried to get it aligned. how would i adjust the camber on my talon? my race cars are simple as hell to do but its ALOT different on a street car. i just wanna get it ballpark. or just not as effed up. thanks to everyone thats given good advice and not the Fuc*ers who are dicks.


WOW. i just looked at my pics of my car. look at the front wheels. you can see how much positive camber they have. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/appearance-interior-exterior/316580-painted-wheels-head-lights.html

 

[brownfinger]

On a stock 1G fwd, toe is the only adjustment there is. Makes it much cheaper to build. Something must be bent or modified if your camber is off. I keep forgetting to ask: Are there any little brothers or girlfriends "borrowing" your car ever?

 

[ClevelandDSM]

1. Buy Axle
2. Install
3. Profit?

Putting one in and out is pretty straight forward. Can be done in under a 1\2 hour. I would look over everything in the front end though to try to figure out what caused the castle nut and the end to break off. They are pretty heavy duty.

 

[badabing33a]

the camber became screwed up after the crossmember was changed. what could/should i look for? maybe something isnt tightened very well. it would have to be something that affects both sides of the car.

 

[badabing33a]

im getting my parts today. dad is picking up an axle, brake rotor, brake pads, ball joint, and a wheel bearing. then he is taking the hub assembly to the garage to have it pressed. and then im putting her back together. i got all the parts i need right?

 

[brownfinger]

When you say 'crossmember' do you mean the subframe, which goes cross-ways and holds the steering rack, or do you mean the piece that goes front-to-back and holds the front engine mount? The front-to-back crossmember shouldn't effect camber, but the subframe does hold the inner mounts for the control arms. The location of those mounting points does set your camber. Are your strut mounts/bearings at the top of the struts stock or adjustable aftermarket ones(or mutilated or damaged)? While I have to admit to ignorance in the following categories, I think they are possible: Bent/wrong subframe, damaged struts/strut towers, wrong control arms(?), camber-adjusting kit eccentric bolts attaching the struts to the steering knuckle. Are you sure the camber is out of spec (alignment shop print-out)? I couldn't see anything in the pictures, the rest of the car is in the way.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

That sounds like you have the parts you need, and that other dude is right, you were about to loose your wheel. The only thing keeping the wheel from exiting the wheelwell, was the caliper holding the rotor. That's why the rotor was throwing sparks. If the rotor or caliper had broken, you would have been severely bummed.

As for the camber issue, it sounds to me like someone put the wrong parts on your car. I assume by crossmember, you mean the cradle/frame that your steering rack mounts to?

Is it possible that someone installed the wrong control arms, or steering knuckles on your car? If so, I expect that could cause your terrifying symptoms.

I would be resolving that problem too if I were you. No offense, but you may be driving around oblivious to a very dangerous situation, like you were when you drove around your neighborhood with the wheel ready to fly off.

 

[badabing33a]

Yes its the cradle. the big sub frame that goes side to side. came out of a car just like mine. and i used the same parts that were in there before i changed the cross member. im pretty sure everything is right. my uncle put the cross member in, i just tore everything apart. i do need new struts, the ones in it look wore out. would that cause this outragous camber? and all the suspension pieces are stock. for now. i might have to buy a camber kit if thats the only way to reduce the camber. and i 100% sure the camber is fu*ked up. its real noticible. but the guys at the alignment shop didnt notice it.

 

[brownfinger]

The guys at the alignment shop should have given you a printout which shows the factory specs. versus your actual measurements, both before and after they touched it. Are you sure it doesn't just look wierd compared to the rear camber? The rear axle has tons of tire-eating negative (i think - =/\, +=\/)camber welded in to it on an fwd 1G. I'm always confused with +/- camber. Are you saying that your front wheels are further apart at the top than at the bottom, or do they just look that way relative to the rear?

 

[badabing33a]

yea the top of the tires are further apart. and they didnt give me any papers. ill just go somewhere else to get it aligned.
this may help. Wheel Alignment
But yea compared to the rear wheels which look perfectly even, the front looks alot different. in those pics, from the pics of the side of the car, u can see.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I looked at the pictures of the car, and I don't really see any pictures that really show it from the right angle to say anything about the camber one way or the other.

I can't see how someone aligned it without noticing. The alignment machine would have showed the camber in the red, and if it were that far out of whack, you would think they would say something. In response to your question about struts, they only move straight in or out, so if they were affecting camber, they would have to be flexing in the middle. I saw that happen to a Geo Storm Tsi ONCE but it was accompanied by a hellified loose feeling, and a loud shift and clunk, anytime you entered a turn. There's no way someone could have proposed to have aligned your car with a broken strut. It would be like trying to level a pool table on a moving train.

 

[badabing33a]

I stated before on the first page of this that when i went to the alignment shop, they told me to get a new wheel bearing and a ball joint. so all they did was take of the right front wheel. he showed me when he put the wheel back on, he puled it toward him on the left on right side of the tire, and it wiggled. my struts arent shot but they could be replaced. maybe i need new control arms. but then again, both sides would have to be bent in order for both sides to have camber. maybe the cross member isnt the right one. and i really dont feel like changing them again. talk about pain in the ass. how different are 1G cross members? i got it from another 1G at a junkyard and they said itd work on any 90-94 Talon. when i pulled the old one, i sit the new one next to it. they felt the same weight and looked idenical. i guess i should have measured them in case somehow they were different.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Yeah that doesn't sound like it would cause a problem. I wouldn't expect them to have changed the width of the cradle from one year to another. Or were they from the same year and everything?

 

[badabing33a]

not sure what year it was. i never even seen the car. but they said it came out from a 1G Talon. i dont see why they would be different. especially since they didnt make camber adjustments to be cheaper for us. why would they make different size cross members in case something happend to someone like me and needed a new one. then you would have to find the exact same model as yours. would be a hassel.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Yeah that doesn't sound possible. If the camber is so bad that you can see the problem by just looking at it, then something must be way out of wack.

Try removing the bolts that hold your struts to your steering knuckles, and make sure you don't have slotted holes in the struts. They normally would not be slotted, but someone may have modified them to adjust camber, or put in too small of a bolt.

 

[badabing33a]

ok ill look at that in the morning. i looked at it this morning and checked the control arms and everything. nothing looks bent.

 

[badabing33a]

i just checked the holes in the strut. they are perfectly round and arent oval or slotted. anything else i can check? does anyone know where i can get a picture of where the sway bar links to the control arm?

 

[badabing33a]

ok i got the parts, got the wheel bearing pressed, so in the morning shes going back together.but does anyone have any ideas as what i could do or check to fix or adjust the camber? also, there are a couple of people interested in buying my car. real interested. they offered me $2000. im guessing i should definitly take the offer right? then get a turbo.