some help please 420a turbo no spark

[tcavenger99]

ok here is the thing i put mt car away for the winter . Before i did i did all the right things . the car had bin started over th winter a few times with out a problem . i went out 2 weeks ago to just take a look it started fine no prob i then loaded it up to spool the turbo dumb .at that point she wouldnt idle right so i shut it off .it has not started since . before we get into all the q/a i sprayed the engine with green rustcheck before storage and at first i thought that maby when i boosted it it sucked it into the engine. so i started pulling sensors cam/crank/ cleaned them with no luck. changed coil ect .went so far as enspecting the harness , timming no help . in short my car wont start . symptons are as follows if i disconnect battery or leave for a while 1-3 hours she will make a attempt and spark is present yet then it dyes . has plenty of fuel 330injectors and sfmc . yet the spark seems to fade . i have read that the 95 ecu fails yet before i go get one i would like your input it just doesnt make sence . i tested coil plug the middle wire has power with key turn . everything short of ecu.....any help would be realy good thanks

 

[wwarlock]

these are going to be no brainer's but have you checked the Batt? Also I would consider cycling your gas make sure you are getting gas and that from the start-ups and stops over the winter you did not condense water into your gas from the heat up then cool down. I would also check wires make sure nothing nibbled its way through anything. You said you checked the coil have you checked your plugs to make sure you are getting a spark? other than that sensors you might want to check. hope you can get it up and running....

 

[tcavenger99]

as for the plugs pulled them first sorry they are fine . battery fine gas well it lights
This is baffling me , thinking it might be ecu yet a little weary on that , because i can still cycle the key and get cell code . i disconnected the battery since the last start so i am only getting code 12 bat disconnect and 55 end of codes ? yet if the ecu was gone would i still get codes ?

 

[wwarlock]

ya with what you are saying I really dont think it sounds like the ECU. Something you might want to think about is even if you can light the fuel does not mean that it does not have water in it that could be causing problems. And I would agree that if the ECU is throwing codes I would not think it to be that. The fact that when you unplug the batt for a while it tries to turn over and then stops sounds like a switch or sensor problem to me.... but no error codes from the computer makes it sound like ignition problem. wish I could be more help.

 

[tcavenger99]

thanks i am looking more toward ignition yet i am going to put some water remover in it and see if that works , going to test continuity between sensors to ecu for a break to ,even fixed that stupid problem with the corrosion in the wheel well .this got me baffled ????

 

[tcavenger99]

did this to

NO: 08-31-95

GROUP: Electrical

DATE: Aug. 4, 1995

SUBJECT:
Intermittent Check Engine Light,
No Start, Hard Start, or
Inoperative Condenser Fan

MODELS:
1995 (FJ) Avenger/Sebring/Talon

NOTE : THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES WITH A 2.0 LITER (420A) ENGINE BUILT PRIOR TO MAY 24, 1995 (MDH 05-24-XX).

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

Corrosion of the front end wiring harness connector or two wire splice joints may cause varying conditions such as check engine light on, no start, hard start, and or radiator/condenser fan inoperative. The symptoms may be intermittent and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) may or may not be present.

DIAGNOSIS:

Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS) or the Scan Tool (DRB III) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures Manual, verify all engine systems are functioning as designed. If Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding with this bulletin.

For vehicles with no (DTC's) present, perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:

AR 4778570 Heat Shrink Tubing
AR NPN Rosin Core Solder
AR NPN Electrical Tape
AR 06149 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant Patch (Box) or P/N 06147 Tape (Roll)

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

This bulletin involves hard wiring the connector location and repairing two splice joints.

1. Record all radio presets, disconnect and isolate the negative battery terminal.

2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and remove the left front wheel and splash shield.








3. Locate the A-32 connector for Talon models or A-37 connector for Avenger/Sebring models (Figure 1). The connector is a 12 way with a black insulator.

4. Disconnect the connector and carefully inspect the male and female terminals for any corrosion.

5. If corrosion is found, cut the connector from the harness and splice the wires together as listed in step number 6. If no corrosion is found, proceed to the splice repair in step number 7.

6. Remove one inch of insulation from each wire end and place a piece of heat shrink tubing, P/N 4778570, over each wire. Twist the same color wires together and solder each splice with rosin core solder. Center the heat shrink tubing over the repaired area, and heat until the tubing is tightly sealed and sealant flows from each end.

7. Remove the two bolts that hold the left corner of the upper fascia to the body. Move the fascia outward to provide better access to the splices.

8. If the vehicle is ABS equipped, remove the shield from bottom of the control unit.








9. Locate the two splice joints (Figures 1 & 2). It will be necessary to remove the wiring from the protective convolute and any electrical tape to gain access to the splices.

10. Inspect both splice joints for any corrosion. If corrosion is found, remove the corroded portion and re-splice the same colored wires together. Use the procedures outlined in step number 6 to properly repair the splices.

11. If no corrosion is found at the splices, re-solder them using rosin core solder and seal each section with 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant Patch, P/N 06149, or Tape, P/N 06147.

12. After the repair, place the wires back into the convolute. Wrap electrical tape around the convolute to prevent the wires from protruding.

13. Install the ABS control unit shield (if equipped), fascia, splash shield and wheel. Lower the vehicle.

14. Connect the negative battery cable and set the radio presets recorded in step number 1. Set the clock to the appropriate time.

15. Verify proper operation of the vehicle before returning it to the customer.


POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: Inspect Wiring Harness Connector and Splices for Corrosion
08-94-CA-90 1.1 Hrs.

Remove Connector and Hard Wire
08-94-CA-91 0.3 Hrs.

Repair Splice Corrosion
08-94-CA-92 0.2 Hrs.

FAILURE CODE: 3T - Terminal(s) Corroded