The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

420A 2gNT No spark. No start. HELP!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

The voltage from the battery is good. Im getting 12. What is this parasitc draw you are talking about? if you dont mind telling me. Never heard of that. I know no one that has another eclipse,neon, or avenger cause i was gonna take my ECU out and hook it up to another eclipse and if there car didnt start then i would know it was the ECU. I dont have anyone around here that has one of those cars. any more ideas? LOL Should i break down and get the ECU? yall think that is the prob.
 
I just haven't heard to many people with a 99 ecu having issues at all....so I'd like to think its just something small that you've over looked.....make sure you checking that every sensor is snug and clicked in correctly.
 
The voltage from the battery is good. Im getting 12. What is this parasitc draw you are talking about? if you dont mind telling me. Never heard of that. I know no one that has another eclipse,neon, or avenger cause i was gonna take my ECU out and hook it up to another eclipse and if there car didnt start then i would know it was the ECU. I dont have anyone around here that has one of those cars. any more ideas? LOL Should i break down and get the ECU? yall think that is the prob.

You car ran fine before the rebuild. ECU's are normally damaged from heat over time causing components to fail. There is no reason why the ECU would not work now unless you left your car outside with no hood on it or something and the ECU got drenched. I would definately look elsewhere for your problem. Hows your timing? if you got your timing off too much the car will not fire. Otherwise just double and triple check the things to rule out. You have to prove parts are working correctly or not in order to narrow down the problem. I mean does the car even turn over? tell exactly what it does when you turn the key otherwise where just making assumptions to a car that wont start which is endless. I have personally seen 3 other people install an SAFC then couldnt get there car to start until they removed the thing, so its hard for me to want to look around it until its ruled out, sorry.
 
Ok the car has been sitting around for a good while. The car is turning over but just want start. If my car has been sittin for awhile wouldl that make the ecu bad. Well if it is the SAFC all i would have to do is unplug it right i mean i wouldnt have to take the wires off the ecu would i.
 
Ok the car has been sitting around for a good while. The car is turning over but just want start. If my car has been sittin for awhile wouldl that make the ecu bad. Well if it is the SAFC all i would have to do is unplug it right i mean i wouldnt have to take the wires off the ecu would i.

You could unplug the SAFC and try it, but most likely its the actual wiring of the SAFC thats causing the problem. There is probably a couple of wires in the wrong place or some bad connections. If you are worried about disconecting the SAFC completely then don't, But at least check each wire individually and make sure they are in the right place and soldered well. Otherwise its just going to be a continuous headache.
 
Parasitic draw is basically a power draw somewhere within the wiring or electricals. It really can be a PITA because you could literally have to trace every wire for shortage or interferance with other wires, metals, etc...You could've made some minor errors when wiring up that SAFC. If so, the parasitic draw would drain your battery over that period of sitting time. It's like a constant power draw.

Anyways, I was thinking today, if you're car sat for a while, then how much gas, if any, was in it? 2 reasons I think of this:

1) Gas gums up over time. If it's bad enough, you may not be getting feul the way you should be, therefore no spark the way there should be.

2) Water in the tank. This will either make it not start, or sputter, or just, yeah, not start.

I would honestly drain the tank just because you don't want that in there anyways. Especially if it's been sitting.

Also, I was looking and saw you ran 450's with the SFMU and SAFC. How much boost were you running? If it was a decent amount I'd say timing *may* have become thrown off. I've heard of many 420a's advance timing under high boost. If you advanced timing enough, then no, it wouldn't start.
 
Also, I was looking and saw you ran 450's with the SFMU and SAFC. How much boost were you running? If it was a decent amount I'd say timing *may* have become thrown off. I've heard of many 420a's advance timing under high boost. If you advanced timing enough, then no, it wouldn't start.

I don't think he has driven the car since he upgraded to the 450's and the SFMU. I'm under the impression that he rebuilt the engine and added the SFMU and the 450's so he could run higher boost, but has not got the car running since.
 
Yes i added all that after the rebuild and thats when it didnt start. I have like over half a tank in gas. When i installed the SAFC i set it up like it says. 4cylinder and all that good stuff. I have double checked the wiring several times and it looks good. The only prob that might have actually been a prob is one of the wires were called to be one inch from another and it was not. I fixed that and still no start. My car has not seen rain cause i have had it in a garage. The timing was set on the money but can it jump off? that right there is the only thing i really have not checked because i figured once we had it on the money then it would stay that way. Should i pretty much go back and take all the clips off and re snap them just to make sure they are on tight. Im so confused and its making me so mad. Oh and you talked bout how much boost. I was runnign 10 psi when it went cause it spiked to 15. when i get it back up and running im wanting 20psi hopefully:thumb: thanks for the help guys and keep up with your ideas
 
I have checked that sensor already but i think im gonna check them all again and make sure i didnt miss something. If you guys have any more opinions please feel free to give them. thanks
 
When doing your timing if you get the belt on and everything looks great that doesnt mean anything until you make some rotations of the crank. When you set your timing you need to bring the cam gears all the way around about 3 times and then look and see if everything is still aligned. I forgot to do that back in the day and i payed for it. The timing looked perfect but once i started the car and it ran for a minute the timing was actually off 2 teeth.
 
hey i got the same prob i cant get my to start eaither when i turn the key nothing happens but if the keys on and i bump the starter and it trys to start but dosent get fuel and i have check the fuel pump its working i dont no what it is i need help
 
Ok posted not to long ago bout my car not starting and still stuck. Just now getting a lil money and time to try things. My car turns over but it just wont run. The car was running fine before i slung a rod bearing. So while i was replacing the bearings i added the 450 injectors,resistor pack, SAFCII, and Vortech SFMU. Not sure if maybe i hooked up the SAFC wrong and maybe it messed up my computer? I unplugged the SAFC just to see if it would run then and nothing just still turning over. I checked the CAS and CPS both fine. My friend who is helping me thinks that its my computer. So im wanting to go with megasquirt and do the full standalone. You guys have any idea what might be causing my car not to run? Gettin so mad cause the car is ready to go just cant get it to run. So i need help PLEASE!:cry:
 
Do you have spark on all cylinders? What is your fuel pressure set at with the SFMU for those 450's, and does it rapidly prime and maintain your desired fuel pressure during cranking?

You don't need the SAFC to run the car with the 450cc injectors, only the SFMU. I would begin by removing the SAFC and returning the electrical system to stock. (except for the FCD, which is not mentioned in your profile)

To be sure; the fuel port on the bottom-centre of the SFMU is the return to the tank. The fuel port on the side will go the return on the fuel rail (after) if using early style fuel setup, or before the fuel rail if using the late style "returnless" setup.
 
Ok not gettin any spark on any cylinders. As far as the fuel pressure goes not really sure how much i have, I do have a gauge hooked up just cant remember what im getting.
 
Check that the coilpack is receiving power to B+. The other two pins on the coil harness should provide a switching ground signal while cranking.
 
If you can't find anything obvious (i.e. unplugged connectors, smoking wires) you really should take the SAFC out of play.

MB
 
Same story here I shifted from 3rd to 5th, out of 3rd at about 5k rpm and when as soon as I let the clutch out it died. Took it to the dealer and they coe up with nothing. I dont have any electrical addons, and have replaced the ECM due to the fact that all the relays and sensors would power up manually as well as the injectors would pulse manually, the coils could all be powered manually but nothing still. Just cranks.:confused:
 
Same story here I shifted from 3rd to 5th, out of 3rd at about 5k rpm and when as soon as I let the clutch out it died. Took it to the dealer and they coe up with nothing. I dont have any electrical addons, and have replaced the ECM due to the fact that all the relays and sensors would power up manually as well as the injectors would pulse manually, the coils could all be powered manually but nothing still. Just cranks.:confused:



Is the timing belt still on? Getting fuel pressure? Injectors spraying? Spark? Check the basics before anything.
 
I had the same problm about a week ago. Try the power transistor unit.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Mitsubishi logo early valve cover
    Early Mitsubishi logo valvecover. “1990” All threaded holes are good. Has the 90 style vent...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top