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so i finally built a tubular manifold.......

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Mike what made you get into 4g63 fabricating? The owner must have pictures of you doing something pretty good .ROFL j/k

Looks good how bout throwing on a diffrent flange and making them for owe idk a diffrent kind of eclipse/talon ;)

i can and will do anything............. but my main business is neons and dsm's. u gotta pay tp play and when some one wants to pay for a turbo mani for a 420a ill build it no problem. :thumb:


mike
 
i can and will do anything............. but my main business is neons and dsm's. u gotta pay tp play and when some one wants to pay for a turbo mani for a 420a ill build it no problem. :thumb:


mike

I have to see how this nitrous setup workout before I start looking into a tubro get up. If it does what I think it can and I drive good I shouldn't need a turbo :rocks:
 
Looks very nice so far. What spec is the tubing, where's you get teh flange and last of all.. are you planning on MIG ot TIG'ing it? I've seen some made from schdual 10 weld'eLs (or some name like that, it's steam fiting pipe) And i've seen migged ones hold up reall well, but the few i've seen tigged were just great.. no fixing a weld crack or naything ever. The cooler burn on the TIG really helps in maintaning strength in the metal around the weld. but you look like you know what you're doing so i'm just blabbing..Keep us updated!

he stated that its sch 40, some builders use 10 if its a sidewinder and has to carry alot of weight if you run dual gates and a large turbo, but for a manifold like this its not vital, and you save some weight, some even use tubing and add braces. It looks like he is using 1.5" i believe, and the flanges you can get from anywhere, you can use mild steel or stainless, ive never had problems with either on manifolds, if your interested in purchasing a flange.

Go to Honda-Tech.com: Main Forum List and search user name 'weirtech' and find his flange thread, he has the best service and prices i guarantee, $22 for the 4g63 i believe, he is also 20min drive from me, and a great guy ive had him do some minor aluminum welding for me before.

If you have to fix a crack if its mig's or tig's you did something wrong, mig ones shouldn't crank, and tig'd ones shouldn't either.

As far as the 'cooler burn on the tig really helps in maintaining strength in the metal around the weld' i have no idea what you mean.

But the color of the weld dose indicate strength, if the metal gets too hot and your post purge isn't long enough the metal is still red when the oxygen gets to it and it cools without having shielding gas around it, and it turns gray, if you have a bit of blue around the weld this is also from lack of shielding gas on post purge and is actually slight contamination (welders pull the torch away early, because buyers like the look of this.. which is what i feel your talking about as 'strength').

Proper technique with welding stainless should leave the welded area and the weld the EXACT same color as the base material, but slightly gold/pinkish is alright, but if it was the food industry that would fail inspection.

Just a little FYI, this applies to all welding, no just TIG specifically.

Hope that clears up any questions you had. You could also tack weld up your own manifold, and bring it to someone to have it TIG welded if you don't have access or skills needed to do it yourself, and for the collector, theres guys selling pre-welded ones, and even kits that you weld up yourself, weirtech also sells all wastegate/turbo/downpipe etc flanges, and can cut you anything you need if you send him a flange.

Goodluck.
 
slowgsr................ by the way u stated it above its sounds as if ## saying that sch 10 is thicker than sch 40.............. its actually the other way around sir.


AMM
 
you are correct, i got mixed up! In that case i would have thought you were using sch 10, but its actually 40 which is most likely once of the thickest materials used in turbo manifolds
 
i can and will do anything............. but my main business is neons and dsm's. u gotta pay tp play and when some one wants to pay for a turbo mani for a 420a ill build it no problem. :thumb:


mike
Hey, you talkin' to me ;)? Yeah, I'm here too.

Having seen Mike's work and having held it in my hands and having used it on my car.......I'll vouch for his welding and fabricating ability. Unquestionable :thumb:

MB

Mike, you know, of course, that doesn't mean squat :p
 
fitment update.............


well hood clearance is really close............ the manifold did hit the front motor mount............. the compressor housing hit the block.............. and rad fitment doesnt look like it will be an issue. but hes not running the stock fans so i dont know how that would work.

the fix............ solid dog bone style front motor mount is going in.............. theres is a stud/pedastal protruding from the block that the compressor housing was hitting so we hacked it off (approx. 3/8"). and one last thing we are doing to help all areas is fly cutting the tubing where it mounts to the head flange so that it tucks the top of the manifold up closer to the valve cover giving it a slight bit more hood clearance while pulling it away from the block so it doesnt hit anymore. the dogbone mount will still be needed and at the same time it should push the turbo towards the front of the car just a tad.............. good thing that rad clearnace wasnt a problem.

the next one i make will be able to fit in an unmodified engine bay. im going to be doing one for a 420a next though.


mike
 
on my honda my manifold rubbed the bottom of my CF hood, i ran solid mounts, no issues with the hood or the finish etc.

got any installed pics?
 
Be prepared for those immaculately cut pieces to move all over hell and back once you start heating up all those joints.
 
very nice job on the mani. I was wondering if you were going to have it coated or wrapped possibly, just an idea , but great work and hope it works out for ya:thumb:
 
Looks great, nice work.

What size is the pipe? Somone mentioned 1.5, just wondering if that's correct.
 
Manifold looks great Mike, looking foward to the finished pics. Got any pics of the log style manifolds?
 
ok heres the pics i took with my camera phone all mocked up, now i just need to weld it. i notched the front motor mount and turned the waste gate flange a bit to have it face straight downward to run the dump tube in front of the intake pipe on the turbo and between the front motor mount and the under engine longitudinal brace (whatever the hell its called) i also had to cut the brace off the hood right above the 2 tubes so now i have an inch of clearnance up there and it fits with the stock rad and some slim line fans. also this is running the 2.5" SBR FMIC kit. anyways heres the phone pics...........

welding will be done this week for sure.

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mike
 

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Nice, looks like all the clearances are good. Have you tried to put a coupler on the turbo housing next to the mount yet?
 
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