2G Smoke Coming from Turbo After 14B Install on a 2G

[VT_4G63]

As the title states, I just swapped out a T25 for a 14B on my 96 Spyder GST and I’m getting smoke (white, I think) coming from the turbo area.

My coolant lines coincide with the attached picture from a 2G FSM.

It seems to me that maybe coolant is not cycling through the turbo and just sitting in it and heating up until it burns off. The only thing I can think is maybe I left a piece of cloth in either the coolant feed or return and it’s blocking flow of coolant. I’m usually pretty careful about that stuff though.

I’m going to pull the turbo to see what I can see, but I wanted to post a thread to see if anyone had any other ideas as to what this could be or if it sounded at all familiar to anyone.

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[CrackedDSM]

Might've just spilled some coolant into the downpipe and it's just burning off. How long has it been running with the 14B?

 

[VT_4G63]

Might've just spilled some coolant into the downpipe and it's just burning off. How long has it been running with the 14B?

I thought it might be just something burning off too, but it stayed pretty persistent. This is the first startup/heat cycle since the turbo swap. I did a lot of maintenance alongside the swap as well. So the car has never left the driveway or made boost since the 14B was put on. The turbo was on my Talon prior to this and had no issues on that car.

 

[chrysler kid]

There will be alot of "steam" cooking from the manifold and turbo burning off your finger print grease, the dirt and oil from touching them. This residue burning off should go away after ten to fifteen minutes of driving. If youre just sitting there idling it may take a little longer as the manifold and turbo dont get as hot at idle

After any major work done i highly suggest checking the fluid levels on a regular basis. You may develop a leak from loose fittings as you complete a few heat cycles. With any aftermarket installation kits i highly reccomend using teflon tape to seal the metal on metal thread connection fittings. Typically you will see the lower drain hose develop a tiny drip leak. I reccomend planning a time to double check the torque of the bolts is still correct after a few heat cycles, and there arent leaks. Its always good to double check your work after a few days of driving

Heres my colorized template to make my OCD go away

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

We had a cracked CHRA once that was leaking coolant. We pulled the coolant lines off and ran it without.

 

[curt-s]

Did you use any antisieze compound on any of the bolts? That's common to smoke for a little while at the start

 

[VT_4G63]

There will be alot of "steam" cooking from the manifold and turbo burning off your finger print grease, the dirt and oil from touching them. This residue burning off should go away after ten to fifteen minutes of driving. If youre just sitting there idling it may take a little longer as the manifold and turbo dont get as hot at idle

After any major work done i highly suggest checking the fluid levels on a regular basis. You may develop a leak from loose fittings as you complete a few heat cycles. With any aftermarket installation kits i highly reccomend using teflon tape to seal the metal on metal thread connection fittings. Typically you will see the lower drain hose develop a tiny drip leak. I reccomend planning a time to double check the torque of the bolts is still correct after a few heat cycles, and there arent leaks. Its always good to double check your work after a few days of driving

Heres my colorized template to make my OCD go away

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Did you use any antisieze compound on any of the bolts? That's common to smoke for a little while at the start

Thank you guys for the responses/suggestions. They all seem plausible and likely. I did use anti-seize on the manifold to turbo bolts, and all parts involved were handled extensively while getting them prepared. I think I’ll give everything another heat cycle before I pull it apart. I was worried I was going to destroy the 14B and possibly even subsequently then the engine if there was a coolant circulation issue. However, I think the “burn-off” suggestion might be what I’m experiencing.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Thank you guys for the responses/suggestions. They all seem plausible and likely. I did use anti-seize on the manifold to turbo bolts, and all parts involved were handled extensively while getting them prepared. I think I’ll give everything another heat cycle before I pull it apart. I was worried I was going to destroy the 14B and possibly even subsequently then the engine if there was a coolant circulation issue. However, I think the “burn-off” suggestion might be what I’m experiencing.

I'd be more worried if it was deep blue smoke, and a lot of it pouring out of the exhaust. White smoke? Eh. Like Marty said worst case scenario(turbo wise only) it's just got a little crack in it, and just don't run coolant.

 

[VT_4G63]

I'd be more worried if it was deep blue smoke, and a lot of it pouring out of the exhaust. White smoke? Eh. Like Marty said worst case scenario(turbo wise only) it's just got a little crack in it, and just don't run coolant.

Yeah, I was checking the exhaust pipe intermittently for any type of smoke during that first heat cycle, especially blue, but there was none whatsoever.

I’m going to heat cycle it again and move it into my garage. I’ll see what happens then, I’m thinking it’s the anti-seize on manifold to turbo bolts.

 

[chrysler kid]

Yeah if it was an external coolant leak you would see evidence of it dripping onto the ground. It would have visible puddles under the car if there was a coolant leak in the engine bay

 

[VT_4G63]

In the interest of posting the "solution" to this issue I was having, it turns out it must have been the anti-seize on my manifold to turbo bolts that was causing the turbo-area smoking issue, along with whatever else got on there during install.

Hopefully this helps someone else possibly experiencing the same thing.