Slight grind 2-3 shift only

[nastyleak]

My clutch fork is against the driver's side too the point where it deforms the boot. Also I get a grind shifting 2nd to 3rd ony if shifting fairly quickly and never when downshifting 4-3 or any other time. The trans still feel notchy after several thousand miles. The guy at the trans shop actually suggested the longer slave rod. Would this clear up the grind? I've already adjusted the clutch according to Jack's video and replaced the slave. The trans is recently rebuilt with ACT 2600, streetlite flywheel, un-sprung street disc. Having to shift slowly to 3rd is starting to feel really ridiculous at this point! Also forgot to mention I removed the restrictor piece from the slave.

 

[LiquidX]

You shouldn't need an extended rod, that only covers up a problem. I'm unsure what would cause the fork to be that far out unless it was shimmed way too much. Kinda sounds like a syncro issue.

 

[nastyleak]

I hope its not a synchro problem! Its a freshly built transmission. The guy said he didn't shim it although it seems like maybe he should have at this point. If I remember correctly the oem replacement slave was actually longer than the one that I replaced, although I couldn't tell that the rod was necessarily longer. I removed the restrictor 2 days ago in hopes of resolving the grind in my new very expensive transmission. If thats a bandaid then should I expect the shop where they installed it to fix and or shim it free (its done this from the beginning although I haven't put many miles and stopped shifting very quickly)?

 

[LiquidX]

Who did the rebuild?

Shimming the pivot ball is to make the clutch fork base extend towards the driver side so there is maximum throw. As long as it's half way or more towards the driver side it's fine. I haven't heard of it being that far over though.

Perhaps if it's too far over, you cannot get full travel of the fork to fully press on the pressure plate all the way. That may be why he's suggesting the longer rod.


I would have the clutch pedal pressed it and held (friend, wood, anything) and check to see how far the throw is at the fork.

 

[nastyleak]

Its garbage to spend all the money to make the car faster and its barely faster because of having to shift so slowly.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

I have the same problem, mine is caused by clutch drag I'm pretty sure. Get an oem master and oem slave or measure the depth of the slave cylinder to check how much it can throw.
-Shane

 

[nastyleak]

The throw is not very far maybe 3/4 to an 1 1/4 inch. I could measure tomorrow. The only parts that aren't new are the pedal assembly, the hydraulic lines, master cylinder, and I've checked repeatedly for signs of leaks from the master cylinder and find none. Forgive me if I don't have much faith in this stuff being done correctly by other folks (including mechanics) personal experience can't be ignored.

GSXexecutioner now that's a thought maybe the master was replaced by the previous owner with one with a shorter travel? Although it looks old and the car only has 115,000 on it. Just verified it's an oem master cylinder.

So maybe in this case a longer slave rod is not just a bandaid but actually a necessity.

Is it possible or likely the master cylinder is bad without leaking. It doesn't leak at any point whatsoever although I've heard it could be leaking internally? This page mentions it: Could clutch slave cyllinder be bad even if it doesn't leak? - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

 

[GsxEcutioner]

I know what you mean. I pulled my trans three times in two weeks. This is in jackstands in the driveway alone . Read this : http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...aftermarket-clutch-master-slave-cylinder.html its for a 1g but most likely the same. The starter of that thread measured my slave and he gave me a oem master. Then read this: How to Bleed a Hydraulic Clutch - Team Rip Engineering
-shane

 

[gusu]

Did you have the clutch working properly before or did you do both at the same time?

It kind of sounds like your clutch wasn't installed correctly.

 

[nastyleak]

I bled the lines according to a similar thread except using a vacuum hose connected to the bleeder valve submerged in a cup of fluid in order top make sure there was no air allowed to be sucked back in. Air in the lines doesn't seem likely and the trans did the same exact thing before I replaced the slave (oem). Seems odd but after the car is driven for an extended amount of time it seems to work a little better. After doing the clutch drag test a couple of times it will slightly bump forward but doesn't really start moving forward.
So it seems that it is dragging very slightly? The rebuilt trans, new ACT 2600, streetlilte flywheel and un-sprung clutch disc were all installed at the same time, the slave went out not long afterwards and I replaced it.
I hope it's installed correctly, I even made sure to ask the people at the shop to make sure it wouldn't drag. Maybe it has an uncommon master cylinder internal leak which could effectively shorten the clutch fork travel and maybe even allow the fork to rest all the way to the driver's side?

This thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/415350-pivot-ball-over-shimmed.html shows the clutch fork too far to the driver's side just like mine is. Would adding washers to where the slave bolts in bring it far enough over for it to start working better?

1. I decided to go crazy with backing out the clutch pedal stop (cruise control thingy) to the point where it might not even be pushing in the little nipple.
2. Next, that allowed the clutch adjustment rod to go in several more turns while still letting the slave cylinder self adjust.
3. Still grinding!

 

[GsxEcutioner]

Glad to see you have it working now. I forgot all about the cruise switch.
-Shane

 

[nastyleak]

I adjusted the clutch switch-pedal stop before, but this time I backed it out really far to where part of the nipple is actually inside the hole.

That was just wishful thinking, it's still doing it.
Guess I'll just get used to it. Maybe all of these transmissions grind?
So to summarize I've spent: $230 on shipping two transmissions since the 1st core was in such bad shape, $120 driving out of town to buy the second core, $50 to buy the second core, around $550-600 on ACT 2600 PP streetlite flywheel and street disc, $2350 on trans rebuild, $500 for removing and reinstalling the transmission, $25 Redline MT fluid, $40 for a new slave cylinder which I replaced myself, countless hours adjusting the clutch rod- bleeding the system, and at this point I have a worse than stock grinding transmission! I'm about ready to sell this damned thing.
So roughly I've got $3,900 in this transmission, should I expect to have a grinding 2-3 shift?

This is going to take an expert to figure out. My best guess is to take this thing to another transmission shop and pay them to figure out what the stupid problem is. At this point I just wish I had a car with good paint that runs without grinding gears.
Hopefully Jack and Twicks might see this post and they will have some suggestions. Now I'm being told to buy the extended slave cylinder rod by the transmission shop, and this is not recommended by the experts on here (including Jack) so I'm out of ideas?

 

[nastyleak]

Okay, took the car to a different transmission shop today. Fluids are all good, shifter cables appear to work correctly, clutch fork moves, I've even replaced the shifter. I'm officially out of ideas.

According to this page adding shims to a new fork and ball shouldn't be done: RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info and I'm pretty sure this is a new fork and ball that came with my Jack's transmission.

 

[nastyleak]

Replaced shifter parts just to make sure it wasn't that, same thing its like a scraping feeling you can feel through the shifter although it's not very loud. It's a real mystery at this point as I hardly ever drive the car roughly and have spent endless hours trying to fix this. At this point it just has to be shifted from 2-3 gear real slow at low RPMs to avoid the scraping-grinding.
Just ordered a new SS clutch line which completely replaces the stock rubber lines and other crap, maybe that silly rubber line is stretching and not moving the fork enough?
If this doesn't fix it, the next step will be to get a priest to perform an exorcism on the damned thing!

 

[nastyleak]

I finally got this fixed, it was the bushings that hold the transmission bracket (closest to the firewall) cable to the transmission.

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

I finally got this fixed, it was the bushings that hold the transmission bracket (closest to the firewall) cable to the transmission.

Picture?

I have an identical problem.

Joel

 

[nastyleak]

This post should help: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...-cable-bracket-bushings-3rd-set-bushings.html

 

[nastyleak]

Soon I will know if full S.S. clutch line (no restricter crap), new motor mounts with ES inserts, Shep's on the trans bushings (for the shifter cable bracket on the trans)
and another new clutch (ACT unsprung street disc), will eliminate the problems for good. If I still have problems my next step will be getting the Daiqueen MR fluid, if that doesn't eliminate the problem I will turn up the radio!

 

[lil corb]

I finally got this fixed, it was the bushings that hold the transmission bracket (closest to the firewall) cable to the transmission.

So I take it this did not the fix the problem?

 

[nastyleak]

New motor mounts with ES inserts, Sheps transmission bracket bushings, the complete SS clutch line, a new unsprung ACT street disc, seem to have fixed this so far. I have only put 70 miles on the new 2.3 and have been really taking it easy so far, but there are no signs of the random grinding feeling. It would be hard to know exactly which thing fixed it (if it is in fact gone) and the shifter base things are still oem. The grinding is still there shifting even kind of quickly makes it happen. It isn't a loud noise but more something you can feel through the shift handle, like it is scraping something. I have completely replaced the shift handle, shifter parts and everything else that could possibly cause this BS even have a new master cylinder. Today I'm replacing the shifter base bushings although I seriously doubt that will fix it.
Maybe DSM transmissions are supposed to grind? Even if you spend lots of money to have the stupid transmission rebuild.
This is everything that has been replaced recently:
Shifter parts
ACT un-sprung clutch (new with 700 miles)
S.S. clutch line all the way to the slave cylinder
slave cylinder
all new engine and trans mounts
master cylinder
bushings for cable bracket on trans

 

[nastyleak]

This grinding stuff is getting ridiculous! Now it will occasionally grind on downshifts from 4th to 3rd.
Expensive rebuilt transmission= grinding 3rd with two different clutches-installs. This is really looking like an incorrectly built trans problem.
I'm really really getting sick of having a grinding transmission after replacing soooo much stuff!
New shifter base bushings now as well, no change in the grinding action.
I found one person who received an email from Jacks citing a possible failure of the transmission cable, although it doesn't make sense for it to only affect one gear, does it?
The shift cables have some play in them before it moves anything and the shifter moves maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch before it seems to engage or move anything when I move it straight forward or back as if doing a gear chance.

 

[turboglenn]

Where is the adjustmetn set at and how far off the ground does it start to grab when you're a half turn from blocking off the return valve?? if it's not at least halfway up before grabbing then it's probably drag which is killig synchros at the same time, so drive easy until you figure it out, geting mad and forcing it through the gear is the worst thign you can do right now

the one thing i'm gonna bring up that no one else does is what plagued me with horrible 2-3 grinding for years until i pulled the clutch pedal assembly out to machine new bearings for it,...that's when i found the pedal was cracked and no amount of adjusting or anything would get the clutch releasing right...after i fixed it the car shifted like it was a new honda accord with all OEM parts (basically like butter even with a 2600 clutch) plus ther clutch needs to breakj in for at least 500 miles and shifting will improve as teh disc wears and compresses making release easier and more complete.. but the cracked pedal is something you can't dianose in the car without maybe a bore scope style camera becayse the crack is in such a weird place and atan angle you'll never see (i never did) and t let the pedal bend before pressing the master rod all the way through it's stroke and reducing clutch throw..

never heard of it till i posted mine then others posted that theirs had broken completeyh off or was cracked too, if you hnave the "2g creaking squeeking clutch pedal" i'll bet you have a cracked pedal... good thing is there's only 3 bolts and the master rod to pull the entire clutch pedal/cage out of the car and inspect it to eliminate or solve the issue