1G Slave cylinder question?

[Sbgriffin]

So this is actually a 2 part question. 1st is I've recently replaced my clutch hydraulics, and I'm having issues getting it adjusted and all the air out. Going off of Jack's transmission YouTube video. Pushing in the slave cylinder rod. The problem is, everytime I try this I have to rebleed the system. I'm guessing there's still air trapped in the slave? So when I push it in, air gets pushed back up. I'm pretty sure that's what's going on?
And the 2nd part, is I'm wanting to get a speed bleeder valve for the slave. I looked up an old thread, said 10×1.0mm. Wasn't even close, way to big. So it has to be a 7 or 8 mm thread size? I should have known that wasn't right, being a 10mm head on our bleeders. Anybody know for sure what size I need? Thanks.

 

[spyderdrifter]

As much as everyone uses the Jack's video, I don't. I don't think it's a great explanation of everything. Watch this one. He explains everything and shows everything as it sits on the car. I know it's a 2G, but they're similar set-ups, and the system is the same.

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[Sbgriffin]

Yeah I love Jafro's videos, and have watched it several times. My persisting issue is I can't seem to get all the air out. I've bled the piss out of it. And it usually works for a few days. Then the pedal gets a little spongy again. Causing some drivability issues, crunchy shifts, locking me out of 1st. And the worst is my clutch engagement is awful, making it impossible to drive without shuttering the piss out of it. So I'm pretty sure the master cylinder is a cheap parts store dorman, not sure about the slave(From the previous owner). I'm guessing I need to break down and go with OEM, but man is that expensive. I see I can get an exedy master and slave cylinder for $60. I know there OEM supplier for our clutch, but I'm not sure about the hydraulic? What's your thoughts on all this?

 

[jakk220]

I would go with everything OEM. I have bought aftermarket before with issues such as the master cylinder rod being too short and have had slave cylinders sucking air back in. You do not want a speed bleeder. I promise, they do not work and will leave you with more air in the system. It sounds as though you definitely have air getting in the system if bleeding it every time fixes the issue temporarily.

I would replace both the master and slave cylinder with OEM (I know its pricey but its well worth it) and then re-bleed the system and re-evaluate the problem. Be sure to bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it in the car.

Also you need to make sure the clutch is adjusted properly first before bleeding or it can effect the bleeding process.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Yeah I love Jafro's videos, and have watched it several times. My persisting issue is I can't seem to get all the air out. I've bled the piss out of it. And it usually works for a few days. Then the pedal gets a little spongy again. Causing some drivability issues, crunchy shifts, locking me out of 1st. And the worst is my clutch engagement is awful, making it impossible to drive without shuttering the piss out of it. So I'm pretty sure the master cylinder is a cheap parts store dorman, not sure about the slave(From the previous owner). I'm guessing I need to break down and go with OEM, but man is that expensive. I see I can get an exedy master and slave cylinder for $60. I know there OEM supplier for our clutch, but I'm not sure about the hydraulic? What's your thoughts on all this?

I actually hung out with him at the Shootout this year and just talked about DSMs (of course), had beers, and bullshit'd. Great guy to hang with, and so knowledgeable.

That almost sounds like the crap I went though with my old spyder before doing the awd swap. Turned out to be the master cylinder was leaking inside the footwell. I replaced it with an after market part, which really didn't make things any better. I bought an oem rebuild kit for the oem one and it did help, but the damage was already done and even after all that, adjusting it according to Jafro's video, and bleeding it thoroughly, my 1st gear was gone, likely wore the synchro out. 2nd gear ended up grinding more too, but the other three gears and reverse were ok. Reverse had been horrible prior to this, so it was again back to normal. So the awd swap happened sooner and still used the oem master I rebuilt and everything was good after that.

 

[Sbgriffin]

Awesome story, I'd love to meet Jafro and turbo Tom. Just to let them know how much they've both inspired and help me with my mechanical hurdles. Good stuff man.
I've decided to go ahead and ordered OEM on both from STM. I've been reading to many horror stories about this exact circumstance. And hopefully my synchro's aren't completely shot. I think it should be alright. Like I said, after bleeding it feels pretty decent for a few days. Shifts OK, engages descent, definitely can live with it. If it would just stay consistent and not go to crap.
You know the worst part is, I finally just got linkv3 setup in my car. After 6 months of saving and planning. And my car is running better than ever! But I'll tell ya, nothing ruins your driving experience like a crappy clutch engagement. Can't even start on hill with out shuttering the mirrors off.
Thanks for all the advice, I'll give you guys an update in about a week.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Sadly Turbo Tom was absent this year, hopefully not next year.

You couldn't be more right with those horror stories. Good luck, hope it works out for you.

 

[9 T GSX]

Just to add this is how the system should be adjusted and bled. Sometimes it helps to have the directions in black and white. The slave bleeding is one that most never do or know about. good luck

http://www.teamrip.com/clutch-bleeding/

http://www.teamrip.com/clutch-pedal-adjustment/

 

[Sbgriffin]

Just to add this is how the system should be adjusted and bled. Sometimes it helps to have the directions in black and white. The slave bleeding is one that most never do or know about. good luck

http://www.teamrip.com/clutch-bleeding/

http://www.teamrip.com/clutch-pedal-adjustment/

Thanks for the good info, I hadn't seen this before. Has my really questioning my pedal assembly, that's getting tested soon. I'll also be trying the slave bleeding method.

 

[Sbgriffin]

Hey one last question. I see performance partout has a gvr4 master cylinder. It looks to be the same, besides the reservoir being shorter. Can I use this if switch reservoirs? Also is the 1g AWD and FWD slave cylinder different?

 

[talon85]

I have a related question....my car has 278,000 miles approx. I have replaced the clutch once. I have replaced the clutch slave cylinder and installed the extended rod. Recently, it has become hard to shift and balky. It's alot like the slave has gone out of adjustment. What could cause this? Or, could this just be a sign that the clutch needs to be replaced? I do have the symborski shift kit bushings and the metal bushings out under the hood. I run redline synthetics in the trans and transfer case as well as all the differentials. Thanks for any thoughts!

 

[Sbgriffin]

I have a related question....my car has 278,000 miles approx. I have replaced the clutch once. I have replaced the clutch slave cylinder and installed the extended rod. Recently, it has become hard to shift and balky. It's alot like the slave has gone out of adjustment. What could cause this? Or, could this just be a sign that the clutch needs to be replaced? I do have the symborski shift kit bushings and the metal bushings out under the hood. I run redline synthetics in the trans and transfer case as well as all the differentials. Thanks for any thoughts!

So from what I've learned. Using an extended slave rod is really not recommend, and usually only helps with very specific issues. Such as a worn clutch fork or pivot ball. It's usually just a band-aid fix. Also will require a complete readjust of your clutch master rod. I myself tried an extended slave rod, and found it causes more issues than it's worth. It's no different than riding the clutch.
What I'd recommend is check where your fork is positioned in the fork hole, it needs to be fairly center. Better yet, a few mm towards the drivers side. Also check, and adjust your master rod. Do the clutch drag test, reving to 7000rpm in 1st. Also I went cheap when replacing my clutch, big mistake. Just FYI, XTD is garbage. U get what you pay for.
But all options exhausted, you might find yourself in my shoes. Turns out my synchro's are trashed. Causing a crunchy, harsh shift experience. Also if it's really bad when the tranny is cold, but gets noticably better as it worms up. Most likely it's your synchro's. U can try draining your gear oil, and replacing it with some redline mt90 or mt-85 is even better. That helped me for about 6 months. But I finally decided to get a rebuilt trans, I'll be putting it in soon.
Hopefully all my ramblings help your situation. Always start with the simple things, and work up. Process of elimination!