Simple Problem or Big Fix?

[Thugmaster1220]

Im going to look at a 95 talon tsi awd tomorrow. I was told that if you get off the gas after accelerating too long the engine starts to choke?

It does have a fmic, no engine management. Possibly an A/F problem?

 

[Bud92gsx]

The bov is probbaly not recuirculated..So when shifting under boost or letting off the gas it stalls..

Go look at it..Take your camera and post pics of the car and especially under the hood..

 

[clipto]

Also do a boost leak test.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Well he might not be able to do a boost leak test while looking at the car..But yes do that if you buy it for sure..

Also ask when the last time the timing belt, water pump, oil pump was changed..

 

[Thugmaster1220]

I can understand why not having a recuirculated bov would cause problems inbetween shift, but out of curiosity, why so when just getting off the throttle?

Im sure there is a boost leak somewhere, that i can take care of!

I spent a lot of time reading the dsm buying guide. Very helpful, but they mostly explain the ideal conditions to look for! When your working on a budget like i am. you gotta expect somethings to be not so great... Where do you draw the line? How much strut rust is acceptable? Any?

 

[Bud92gsx]

Strut rust is acceptable if you have acess to a welder..OTherwise you looking at at least a few bux to get that fixed..

Like if you just rev it up and let of the throttle it stalls..Or just while their is boost pressure..But you can build some pressure in neutral, and the bov will go off...I have done it myself..

 

[Thugmaster1220]

It has had timing belt, alternator belt (serpentine belt?), and water pump maintenance. Ill have to find out exact mileage on those parts tomorrow.

It also has new clutch/flywheel, new plugs, and full 3"exhaust. Recently put on the 16g (evo III i believe) turbo. 120K on engine and trans.

 

[Captn]

I can understand why not having a recuirculated bov would cause problems inbetween shift, but out of curiosity, why so when just getting off the throttle?

Someone correct me if I am wrong here, but the reason for the car to stall or die after letting off is because your car thinks that pressure is being recirculated when really its being blown into the atmosphere and its not getting the pressure it needs. when the car is at idle under no boost there is no pressure that's why it only happens when letting off the throttle.

That is if you have a atmospheric bov without the proper ecu/tune.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Someone correct me if I am wrong here, but the reason for the car to stall or die after letting off is because your car thinks that pressure is being recirculated when really its being blown into the atmosphere and its not getting the pressure it needs. when the car is at idle under no boost there is no pressure that's why it only happens when letting off the throttle.

That is if you have a atmospheric bov without the proper ecu/tune.

Exactly correct..If it's not recuiculated on lets just go with no tuning mods..The engine actually needs that extra pressure from the bov..Otherwise it will stall, because it thinks it's gonna get the pressure and does not..

That being something easily identified by popping the hood and looking at the bov situation..

 

[Thugmaster1220]

He also said that since its cold outside the engine might idle at 1,500-1,900! Should i be concerned?

Also it has a Greddy type S bov. Not yet sure if it is recuirculated to vented to atmosphere

Apparently the Greddy he has is recuirculated...

 

[Captn]

My car idles around that high when its cold, should be fine.

 

[jukematt]

He also said that since its cold outside the engine might idle at 1,500-1,900! Should i be concerned?

Also it has a Greddy type S bov. Not yet sure if it is recuirculated to vented to atmosphere

Apparently the Greddy he has is recuirculated...

That idle is high but when cold, mine does that and I've heard that others do that too:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/414349-high-idle-when-cold-then-settles.html

The key is does it slowly drop again? It should be around ~700-800 when it settles. The other key mentioned in the above thread is if it bounces up and down, then there could be idle surge.

As for the recirculated BOV, check it yourself when you pop the hood to make sure and see if it drops when you test drive.

 

[jukematt]

So what did you think of the car?

 

[Vladimir]

most likely air/fuel. Could be fuel pressure regulator, low vacuum, BOV. Could also be the TPS. Could be the ECU ( hope not tho.) Let me know

 

[TallestHERETIC]

If you still have the stock BOV, the hose from it should still be routed back into the intake. Check the line and be sure there arent any holes, bends or kinks.

If you have an aftermarket BOV, check to see if it has a small nipple looking thing on the top of it. If there is no hose there, that's the problem. The computer is supposed to see and reuse that excess pressure/boost.

It will actually stall because there isn't enough air pressure to mix with the gas to make a combustion, hence the "choking".

 

[Captn]

Ask the owner how long it has been doing it and if it started when he did any modifications.

 

[boosting_pwr]

It sounds like a BOV is not being recirculated back into the intake. I would also ask for a list of all the mods done to the car and check them over if you can to make sure no short cuts were taken.

Also, knowing when the timing belt was changed is a big deal.

 

[Thugmaster1220]

Well I picked up the car! Pretty excited, but on the downside theres work to be down. Unfortunitly, I had to leave it at my parents (or my apartment complex would tow it!) so i havent really even been able to look at it.

Cars awesome fast, i own a 98 yzf 600r, so im familiar with quick acceleration, But the entire AWD turbo platform is a blast to drive!

The negative, horrible strut tower rust!!! Literally, a catastrophy waiting to happen. Other downflaw, is that when your really getting on it around 5-6-7K RPM It almost feels like the drivetrain is slipping... That could be a boost leak i guess? (Havent had time to boost leak check, but will)

I Will deffinitly check out the bov and see whats going on with mods when i can get a real look tomorrow

 

[jukematt]

Well I picked up the car! Pretty excited, but on the downside theres work to be down. Unfortunitly, I had to leave it at my parents (or my apartment complex would tow it!) so i havent really even been able to look at it.

Cars awesome fast, i own a 98 yzf 600r, so im familiar with quick acceleration, But the entire AWD turbo platform is a blast to drive!

The negative, horrible strut tower rust!!! Literally, a catastrophy waiting to happen. Other downflaw, is that when your really getting on it around 5-6-7K RPM It almost feels like the drivetrain is slipping... That could be a boost leak i guess? (Havent had time to boost leak check, but will)

I Will deffinitly check out the bov and see whats going on with mods when i can get a real look tomorrow

Just make sure you take care of all the maintenance first and sounds like you really want to take care of that rust too. Why was the apartment complex going to tow it? If you live there, you should be able to get a sticker for your car so they know it is yours and be fine.

If you like, post a picture of your engine bay here so we can take a look too.

 

[glustic]

Post up some pictures! That strut tower rust could be very bad.

 

[Thugmaster1220]

Iv already got my Ford Taurus here (OHH YEAH!) One parking sticker, got home late, didnt want awd to be messed with, generally SAFER back at home! Trust me im itching to get my hands on it!

Pictures to come tomorrow! I really wanna know if its even safe to drive in its current condition!

I want to through and take apart as much as i have the know how for in the engine bay, because i dont know much i trust the previous owners work! Im wondering if theres a Hose/Line kit to buy for the dsms? Gasket kit? Clamps?

And of course, ill deffinitly change oil/fluids, Theres an A/F gauge thats on the pillar but not hooked up, im assuming its only worth while to assemble if I stall a Widband?

 

[jukematt]

Iv already got my Ford Taurus here (OHH YEAH!) One parking sticker, got home late, didnt want awd to be messed with, generally SAFER back at home! Trust me im itching to get my hands on it!

Pictures to come tomorrow! I really wanna know if its even safe to drive in its current condition!

We'll let you know.

I want to through and take apart as much as i have the know how for in the engine bay, because i dont know much i trust the previous owners work! Im wondering if theres a Hose/Line kit to buy for the dsms? Gasket kit? Clamps?

Road///Race Engineering has flanges, gaskets, hoses, and clamps, as well as a ton of other stuff. If you click on the "Hoses and Clamps" link here, on the bottom they have a whole kit for $20 which allows you to replace every single boost/vacuum hose. I'm going to be getting that along with some gaskets for my exhaust soon.

And of course, ill deffinitly change oil/fluids, Theres an A/F gauge thats on the pillar but not hooked up, im assuming its only worth while to assemble if I stall a Widband?

Yes, if the A/F gauge is narrowband it is useless, really. A wideband is what you need. They're expensive, but worth it for sure. I got one from a friend for free but haven't had a bung put in for it yet.

 

[Thugmaster1220]

So iv got the pictures on my computor, and i remeber reading a thread where another guy couldnt figure out how to get his pictures posted but now i cant find it! Sooo How do i post a picture in the thread?

Ill put them in my profile for now!

 

[Captn]

Get you pictures on Photobucket and click the little IMG button! 3rd icon from the right bottom row! Or link the URL from Photobucket.

 

[Thugmaster1220]

Think I got it!