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should i be worry?

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1sttimedsmr

10+ Year Contributor
254
0
Dec 18, 2008
Hemet/San Ja, California
I just finished compression testing my car and i got 1-4 180, 165, 180, 185. on cylinder#2 was kind of low and i did a wet test and it gave me 180. now is that telling me what? and isn't (my compression) too high for a 1g?:confused:
 
The wet test brought the cylinder back in line with the rest of them? If so you should be good to go. For awhile atleast.
 
its in my plans, i just want to finished the basic maintenance first then ill go deep overhauling.:thumb:
 
If i where you i would rebuild in ther very near future. Also 180s is to high, it is supposed to be around 164 from factory
 
That is pretty high compression for a 1g(7.8:1). Just keep driving it until the compression gets bad and save up for next setup
 
for a 1g(7.8:1).
Uhh. that's the compression ratio for this certain motor arrangement.

That is how many times that one unit of air is compressed per one compression stroke.

Funny how one gets a bit worried when their high number is higher than factory specs in which that number really doesn't matter. Higher means that those rings are well seated in with the cylinder walls and holding compression real good.

It's the low number that counts..and one needs to pay attention to.

Also, if you have readings like that, do another compression reading to dbl check yourself.

Yep, No.2 has a tired compression ring..not bad, but a little tired.

I'd keep driving the car until you're ready ..... no big hurry.

-DSM
 
Uhh. that's the compression ratio for this certain motor arrangement. -DSM

He's most likely not the original owner of the car. It is possible its not the original motor and somewhere down the line it could have 2g pistons or some other ones
 
Funny how one gets a bit worried when their high number is higher than factory specs in which that number really doesn't matter. Higher means that those rings are well seated in with the cylinder walls and holding compression real good.

It's the low number that counts..and one needs to pay attention to.

Also, if you have readings like that, do another compression reading to dbl check yourself.

Yep, No.2 has a tired compression ring..not bad, but a little tired.

I'd keep driving the car until you're ready ..... no big hurry.

-DSM
That's the first time I've heard anyone say that the numbers in a compression test don't matter. Yeah they're supposed to be about the same, but we wouldn't tell him the engine is fine if they all tested to 95psi.

Higher than normal is either a gauge that reads wrong or lots of carbon buildup, which would actually raise your compression ratio. Or it actually has a non-turbo engine, non-turbo pistons, 2g pistons, or aftermarket pistons.

My 1G's have been around 145 or so.


Clean out your combustion chambers by getting the engine fully warmed up and then run a vacuum line into a cup of water, holding the RPM's at like 2500. I always put a vice grip on the vacuum line so I can control the amount of water being sucked in by keeping the line slightly pinched, opening it just enough to suck some water through.
 
Bet he can use Sea-Foam if he didn't want to use the water trick..Just that he'll pollute the neighborhood with the cloud storm that he'll create..

either way - after doing the decarbonization trick..do an oil chage pronto.
 
I believe the general rule of thumb is that if its within 15psi of the other cylinders its ok ( correct me if i'm wrong) After that it means replacement time. I myself have owned 2turbo eclipse and one n/a. Both turbo models have had low compression in the # 2 cylinder. Almost 25 psi difference! And i'm still crusin around with it LOL ( minor consumption 1 quart every 1500 miles)

Just watch out for oil concumption.. its a bi*ch if it creeps on ya. If you consume oil like its comin from a hose then your f-ed and you shouldnt drive it.

oh and yes your rings are bad, yes eventually you should replace them. No its not a huge concern right now. In due time :p
 
He's most likely not the original owner of the car. It is possible its not the original motor and somewhere down the line it could have 2g pistons or some other ones

how would i know if the past owner did some changes? now ,i heard that if have 2g pistons its a b##ch to tune properly.
 
That's the first time I've heard anyone say that the numbers in a compression test don't matter. Yeah they're supposed to be about the same, but we wouldn't tell him the engine is fine if they all tested to 95psi.

Higher than normal is either a gauge that reads wrong or lots of carbon buildup, which would actually raise your compression ratio. Or it actually has a non-turbo engine, non-turbo pistons, 2g pistons, or aftermarket pistons.

My 1G's have been around 145 or so.


Clean out your combustion chambers by getting the engine fully warmed up and then run a vacuum line into a cup of water, holding the RPM's at like 2500. I always put a vice grip on the vacuum line so I can control the amount of water being sucked in by keeping the line slightly pinched, opening it just enough to suck some water through.

how much water should it be sucked in? and exactly how do you this process?
 
how much water should it be sucked in? and exactly how do you this process?

Very little!! Trying to compress water is like trying to crush a diamond. Just be patient and only alloq tiny tiny amounts to go in... like the amount you'd find in a coffee straw. Very tiny.

how would i know if the past owner did some changes? now ,i heard that if have 2g pistons its a b##ch to tune properly.

Unless you took your head off you wouldn't, there is no way to tell otherwise.
 
Very little!! Trying to compress water is like trying to crush a diamond. Just be patient and only alloq tiny tiny amounts to go in... like the amount you'd find in a coffee straw. Very tiny.



Unless you took your head off you wouldn't, there is no way to tell otherwise.

how about the process?
 
how about the process?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/213918-carbon-build-up.html

lists multiple ways to do it, one is through the "p" hose on your throttlebody ( h2o OR seafoam. personally i would use the latter.) Just hook a piece of vacuum line up and it'll start suckin it in with the car on. regulate it with pliers or something to that nature.

The other is mccc thats poured directly down your spark plug holes ( seems to work pretty darn well from what i've read on here) MCCC - Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner

Hope that helps :thumb:

p.s. search next time :p
 
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