short block rebuild

[mattspyder]

what do you guys think about this setup.
scat rods
2g pistons(.20) over
clevite main and rod bearings. (should I stick with the standard size or get .10 under or .20 under?????
And I'll probably put a mits metal head gasket or something like that.

My goals are nothing pretty. I just want a reliable daily driver. I would go with all stock parts but i figured i would put some brand name parts in there. I would only want maybe 300 hp. plan on running about 15-18 psi.
what you guys think?

 

[dnhieu]

I think if your going to get upgraded rods you mide as well get the pistons also. if your only shooting for 300hp save yourself some money and just get some 1g big rods with the 2g piston combo. the crank you have in your block stock is std size. so that means you would want to use std size bearings. IF THE MACHINE SHOP TELLS YOU THAT YOU NEED TO HAVE YOUR CRANK TURNED JUST GET A NEW ONE! our cranks CANT be turned. so just go ahead and get std size bearings....


hope that helps
david

 

[dnhieu]

also slowboy racing cuts the cranks they sell .010. i dont know how they are getting away with this because our cranks are cranks are not supposed to beable to be turned....

 

[mattspyder]

where can i get a pair of 1g big rods new?
I see some on the classifieds but they all got miles on them. think they would still be good.
theres one that has 1g rods with 2g pistons connected on it already, just needs new rings?

 

[fourreGsixty3]

The amount it would cost to machine 2G pistons to fit 1g rods, you might as well just get forged internals, I would say wiseco pistons/eagle rods. Also I dont think they make new 1G rods anymore...or atleast I have never seen anywhere to buy them.

Dustin

 

[BISHILVR]

also slowboy racing cuts the cranks they sell .010. i dont know how they are getting away with this because our cranks are cranks are not supposed to beable to be turned....

You can turn down our cranks all you want, as long as you have them re-hardcoated. Actually, plenty of cranks out there were never hard coated to begin with, and even more re-man cranks are sold at autozone or advanced or whatever, that have had the hard coating removed through undercutting. I believe that the hard coating is a great idea, and should be preserved though, so I would stray away from a cut crank if possible. Take it to the BEST machine shop in your area that you can find (ask around alot!) and have them inspect the crank for clearances before re-using it.

 

[dnhieu]

Are you building a 6bolt or 7bolt? i just assumed you were building a 6bolt because you have a 2nd gen? just get some used 1g big rods. have them inspected by your machine shop of course tho to make sure they are in good condition. as far as the deal you found (and this is just my opinion. the rods and pistons might be good) i would just buy all new stuff. also if it was me i would just get some stock 1g pistons (7:8:1) compression unless i knew there was a good machine shop near by. i have personally seen a machine shop F up some 1g rods and we installed them thinking there were good. the little bit the rod was machine crooked caused rod knock on start up. not trying to scare you but these are things to be aware of....

 

[BISHILVR]

The amount it would cost to machine 2G pistons to fit 1g rods, you might as well just get forged internals, I would say wiseco pistons/eagle rods. Also I dont think they make new 1G rods anymore...or atleast I have never seen anywhere to buy them.

Dustin

CONNECTING ROD, Eclipse, To 4/92 - 2.0L - 2.0L 90-92 $103.92 $76.07 And there you have it- 1g rods are alive and kicking! The first price is retail and the second is the "good" price.

 

[dnhieu]

You can turn down our cranks all you want, as long as you have them re-hardcoated.

so I would stray away from a cut crank if possible.

These two sentences you made contradic themselves. do you run a turned crank or not?

also this re-hardcoating that your talking about is called renitrating. see what happens when you get a crank turned is that they take away the nitrate thats in the crank.

the reason why i say just get a "GOOD USED" crank is because nitrating is EXPENSIVE AS HELL. have you ever got a estimate before? it would cost less then geting a "GOOD USED" crank...

 

[mattspyder]

i'm rebuilding my 7bolt block.
I dont know if I should go with forged pistons for daily driver. I was told forged internals need to be warmed up before running and arent good for a daily driver.

if someone can convince me to go forged for a daily driver I might consider it...

because I would like to put some wiseco piston and eagle rods. I can buy a short block rebuild kit right now at turbo garage with all that for 1185. Im really considering doing this and just taking it to a shop and having them install everything..

http://www.turbogarage.com/dsm_engine.asp

 

[BISHILVR]

Those two statements DONT contradict each other at all! What I said was that you CAN-CAN cut a crank WITHOUT re-hard coating it. Some places re-hard coat and some dont. That is why I said that I would stray away from a cut crank (unless you can verify that it has been re-coated). And by the way YES I have had things hard coated, and its not that expensive, I believe you are guessing at costs. If slowboy cuts a load of cranks and sends them to our local hard coating company (pittsburgh anodizing) then they can have them done relatively cheap in bulk. So I would'nt assume that slowboy does'nt re-treat the undercut cranks they sell. Also "nitriding" is a generic term, as there are different types of hard coatings that can be applied. For example I like my forks on my race bikes to be treated with "titanium nitride", some guys use a different type of hard coating or hard anodizing. The point is that it really is'nt that expensive if you are a company that has bulk pieces done. Cut cranks CAN be hard coated again or not have had the original hard coating completely removed to begin with. Anybody with any doubts should always confirm this before a purchase if it is a concern.

 

[dnhieu]

I have been quoted 400 dollars for a nitrated crank. the nitrate thats in the crank stock only penitrates .020 deep. i have talked to sb when i was doing my rebuild and they told me that they dont have them "recoated" as you would say...

to make a long story short i had a crank cut .010 on the mains and .020 on the rods. i was going to throw in and i did some major research on it and people were snaping cranks with turned ones. i basically wasted my money by getting my old crank turned then had to turn around and buy a good used crank and got it micro polished ....


what is the place you get nitraded at? would you guys take mail in orders? i would like to get some exhaust manifold stuff coated....

 

[andymoraitis]

Mine's .025 under and the last time I checked it was all in one piece.

 

[mattspyder]

enough about the damn cranks already........

 

[dnhieu]

Mine's .025 under and the last time I checked it was all in one piece.

wow thats crazy. i read through about 5-6 threads and everyone said no to use turned cranks and that our cranks are non-serviceable...

how many miles do you have on the built 2.3....

 

[TSIfreek]

 

[mattspyder]

yes please your beating a dead horse here. I didnt ask about what to do with my crank. I asked about what internals to put. I think I get the point about the crank

 

[BISHILVR]

The place that does the "coating" ahem, nitriding, or anodizing, or any of the surface treatments (I call it coating just to put the types into one term) is pittsburgh anodizing, I am sure that you have a place closer to you that does similar work. Most places that anodize or chrome also do nitriding since it is on the same page. Last time I got a price it was around $100

 

[BISHILVR]

yes please your beating a dead horse here. I didnt ask about what to do with my crank. I asked about what internals to put. I think I get the point about the crank

We were simply making a point for future searches and to keep misinformation from floating around the forums. I think we have given you enough advise on what to do with your crank, so OFF YOU GO! Just take it to a good machine shop for inspection if you dont know how to do it yourself or you lack the tools. As far as the mitsu metal head gasket, you should have your head and block decked before using a metal head gasket to prevent leaks, and the surface has to be smooth. For what you are planning the regular mitsu composite gasket will work great and will be easier to keep sealed. The rods you are looking at are good rods as are eagles, it really comes down to the best price since they are almost identical. Some people have had problems with recent clevite bearings, and I am a fan of the genuine mitsu bearings myself. Some arp head studs are a great investment while you are in the engine too. Good luck

 

[mattspyder]

Thank you!!!!!!!

 

[andymoraitis]

how many miles do you have on the built 2.3....

2600 miles. And I had it magnafluxed to make sure there were no cracks before I used it.

 

[mattspyder]

Has Anyone ever purchased anything from turbogarage.com
Like I said I was looking at the shortblock rebuild kit. I dont know if wiseco pistons would be good for a daily driver. Should i get them or not.

 

[TSIfreek]

You can use wiescos on the street everyday no problem.

 

[BISHILVR]

Wiseco's are actually a little better for street use because they slap less when cold over the JE.

 

[mattspyder]

Ok. I think I will go ahead and get that package when I start the rebuild. I first have to haul my car 2000 miles, from California to Wisconsin. I just got out of the marine corps so thats where i'll be living.

I have heard some bad things about clevite bearings. should I be worried about getting them?