1G Shifting problems.

[Nowickii]

Well, I'd like to apologize in advance if this has been discussed in depth, but after searching through DSMtuners as well as MULTIPLE other forums, I can't seem to find a consistent answer to the problem I'm having.

Basically, what is going on is that since I purchased the GSX, it has been extremely difficult to shift into first gear after sitting for a while and it is near impossible to shift it in to reverse. In fact, when attempting to shift into reverse, I get a pretty aggressive grinding noise and give up as I don't want to damage the throw out bearing any more than I have to. Now, the car has a supposedly "built transmission" and I have receipts to prove the work, which is a decent peace of mind, I suppose. However, this being said, the clutch is required to go all the wire to the floor in order to shift gears - supposedly, this is the way the previous previous owner like it, whatever.

From what I've read across multiple forums is that it could be something as simple as changing the transmission oil or bleeding the clutch (both of which I will be doing once it warms up a little further.) I don't like the way the clutch is currently and would definitely prefer a little more resistance, so hopefully bleeding any air out of the system will rid it of this annoyance. When I am doing this, I will also be checking the slave cylinder for leaks as I truly believe after researching that this may be the problem. As a provision, I will be replacing both the master and slave cylinder with Exedy OEM replacement parts as well as replacing the clutch line with an ExtremePSI stainless steel braided line.

So, all of this being said, I just want to know if I'm on the right path and if these are the things I should be doing in order to fix the shifting problems. I would really like to avoid having to drop the trans as I still do not know THAT much about DSM's. Any insight into the situation would be greatly appreciated.

 

[pearl4gtsi]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Even though you plan on replacing it, take a look under your dash at the clutch master and see if the boot is wet. Could be a leaking master...

AND... It deffinitley sounds like the clutch is not adjusted properly. If you have to go all the way to the floor to switch gears, its sounds like you are barley dis-engaging the clutch. There is a very informative vid on YouTube for proper clutch adjustment.

I'll see if I can pull up the link for you.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw

 

[Nowickii]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Even though you plan on replacing it, take a look under your dash at the clutch master and see if the boot is wet. Could be a leaking master...

AND... It deffinitley sounds like the clutch is not adjusted properly. If you have to go all the way to the floor to switch gears, its sounds like you are barley dis-engaging the clutch. There is a very informative vid on YouTube for proper clutch adjustment.

I'll see if I can pull up the link for you.

YouTube

Awesome, thank you for the advice and for the link pearl. I am definitely going to be checking the master and the slave for any sort of moisture or leakage.

And yes, the clutch definitely needs to be adjusted because it's just annoying at this point, haha. I feel like this could definitely be another big part of the problem because like you said, the clutch may barely be dis-engaging, which I would imagine could contribute to the problems I'm having. I will definitely be checking that video out as soon as I'm out of class.

 

[StarFawkes]

This is exactly what was happening with my 1G when I first bought it. You should check to see if you can pull up your clutch pedal while it's up. If you can, then your shifter lever bushings are toast. I was able to pull mine up about an extra 2 inches.

Start by adjusting your master cylinder rod all the way out. Then test to see if you can pull your pedal up. If you can, it needs to be rebuilt. If you can't, you probably need a new pivot ball and fork.

Here is where you can get your clutch pedal assembly fixed if you need to.
DSM 1G Clutch Pedal Assembly | Sheptrans

I'd also like to say that getting an extended slave rod is never the answer, it only masks the real problem and is just asking for more stuff to break. Good luck!

 

[kchaazz]

I would check the bushings in the shifter first, with trouble getting into 1st and reverse. Look at the nasty looking arrow Ive drawn on the pic. That lever needs to move forward and back to move the cable when you move the shifter left and right to select 1st, 2nd, reverse and 5th. If the two bushings in that lever are disentegrated (most are), the lever will not move properly and you will have trouble as you have described. Check this first, its so easy to do, and the bushings are easy and cheap to replace that you might as well replace all of them, six total bushings.

 

[gusu]

Awesome, thank you for the advice and for the link pearl. I am definitely going to be checking the master and the slave for any sort of moisture or leakage.

And yes, the clutch definitely needs to be adjusted because it's just annoying at this point, haha. I feel like this could definitely be another big part of the problem because like you said, the clutch may barely be dis-engaging, which I would imagine could contribute to the problems I'm having. I will definitely be checking that video out as soon as I'm out of class.

Best transmission advice someone can give you is talk to Jack from Jack's Transmissions and see what he thinks and if you need rebuilt pedals buy his, if you need a new transmission I'd buy his as well.

Just for future reference anything drive train related he is the guy to ask.

 

[Nowickii]

This is exactly what was happening with my 1G when I first bought it. You should check to see if you can pull up your clutch pedal while it's up. If you can, then your shifter lever bushings are toast. I was able to pull mine up about an extra 2 inches.

Start by adjusting your master cylinder rod all the way out. Then test to see if you can pull your pedal up. If you can, it needs to be rebuilt. If you can't, you probably need a new pivot ball and fork.

Here is where you can get your clutch pedal assembly fixed if you need to.
DSM 1G Clutch Pedal Assembly | Sheptrans

I'd also like to say that getting an extended slave rod is never the answer, it only masks the real problem and is just asking for more stuff to break. Good luck!

Awesome, thanks for the help. I will try this as soon as I get home. Let's hope neither of those options needs to happen and it is something more minor. I can hope, right?

I would check the bushings in the shifter first, with trouble getting into 1st and reverse. Look at the nasty looking arrow Ive drawn on the pic. That lever needs to move forward and back to move the cable when you move the shifter left and right to select 1st, 2nd, reverse and 5th. If the two bushings in that lever are disentegrated (most are), the lever will not move properly and you will have trouble as you have described. Check this first, its so easy to do, and the bushings are easy and cheap to replace that you might as well replace all of them, six total bushings.

Perfect! Hopefully this ends up being the problem as it seems fairly simple and cheap to do.

Any idea where the best place is to get OEM bushings (or equivalent aftermarket's)?

Best transmission advice someone can give you is talk to Jack from Jack's Transmissions and see what he thinks and if you need rebuilt pedals buy his, if you need a new transmission I'd buy his as well.

Just for future reference anything drive train related he is the guy to ask.

Thanks a ton for the suggestion gusu. If my problem persists, then I will definitely be getting in touch with him about a rebuilt pedal assy. Once again, let's hope it isn't anything major and I don't have to call him about an entire trans...

 

[kchaazz]

The six bushings are: MB367320. Theres also one that is very different than the rest that Ill have to get you the part number for. I just bought five of these, so Ill get you the number when I get home.

EDIT: Here is the number for the 7th bushing MB307949. Not many people know to replace this one when doing the others, but it makes the shifter so much tighter side to side when trying for 1st, 2nd, reverse and 5th.

While this doesnt pertain to the low clutch engagement issue, it should alleviate the trouble with grinding when trying to grab the above mentioned gears. as the others have said, check master and slave cylinders for leaks, if leaks are found, replace the parts with NOTHING but OEM, no parts store specials, and check the pedal assembly, if its bad, order a rebuilt and welded unit from Shep, as welding the worn parts has proven not to work, rebuilding sometimes wears out quickly if using a heavier pressure plate clutch.

 

[StarFawkes]

Here is the link for the shifter lever pivot point bushings, they are cheap and a good thing to replace regularly. Buy 6: OEM Shifter Bushing-91-94 DSM/ 91-92 GVR4 : JNZ Tuning

Although this is unlikely to be your problem, since you said your clutch doesn't disengaged until the pedal is almost to the floor. Chances are your clutch isn't disengaging fully due to improper adjustment, worn out clutch lever bushings, or worn pivot ball.

 

[Nowickii]

The six bushings are: MB367320. Theres also one that is very different than the rest that Ill have to get you the part number for. I just bought five of these, so Ill get you the number when I get home.

EDIT: Here is the number for the 7th bushing MB307949. Not many people know to replace this one when doing the others, but it makes the shifter so much tighter side to side when trying for 1st, 2nd, reverse and 5th.

While this doesnt pertain to the low clutch engagement issue, it should alleviate the trouble with grinding when trying to grab the above mentioned gears. as the others have said, check master and slave cylinders for leaks, if leaks are found, replace the parts with NOTHING but OEM, no parts store specials, and check the pedal assembly, if its bad, order a rebuilt and welded unit from Shep, as welding the worn parts has proven not to work, rebuilding sometimes wears out quickly if using a heavier pressure plate clutch.

Thank you for the part number chaz, I will definitely be ordering those.

Here is the link for the shifter lever pivot point bushings, they are cheap and a good thing to replace regularly. Buy 6: OEM Shifter Bushing-91-94 DSM/ 91-92 GVR4 : JNZ Tuning

Although this is unlikely to be your problem, since you said your clutch doesn't disengaged until the pedal is almost to the floor. Chances are your clutch isn't disengaging fully due to improper adjustment, worn out clutch lever bushings, or worn pivot ball.

Thank you also Fawkes. If these bushings don't help then I will be looking into a Shep clutch assy as it seems this would be my best bet.

Also, I tested the clutch petal for play and it was rock solid, which I suppose is a good sign? Haha.

 

[hunkajunk]

Check that all the bolts are holding the transmision to the block.
Check for cracks in the bell housng

Ive seen a couple dsms where the to is pushing the trans away from the block instead of disengaging the clutch due to missing bolts or cracks

 

[cisco818]

Definately bleed the clutch and I highly recommend red line oil mt90 or royal purple. The work very well you can feel the difference. You can find them both at car quest. Don't waste your time at autozone

 

[DSM1G90]

Here's a trick to try out:

All DSM trannies have two cables heading to it - the SELECT and SHIFT cables. SELECT goes up and down in three stops where the SHIFT moves in and out.

Remove the two cables from the transmission. Move the SELECT lever up and down and see if this works freely in the three steps. Then, check out the SHIFT lever to see if this move forward and backward.

With cables off the tranny, move the shifter and see how this feels without load on the shifter.

If all checks out, then you got clutch/hydraulic problems.

Definately bleed the clutch and I highly recommend red line oil mt90 or royal purple.

He means bleed the clutch and use brake DOT3 fluid to replace and use Redline MT-90 tranny fluid when you drain and refill the tranny. RP is too costly and is a so-so fluid.

 

[uummm]

Check your pedal assembly for bends and cracks. My brother had an act2900 in his car and his pedal assembly was bent (when he got the car) and it caused the pedal to release the clutch almost on the floor, the pedal feel was pretty stiff, and eventually it bent enough he couldn't go in almost any gear. We tried adjusting the clutch, shimming the pivot ball, new slave, ect before we found out it was the pedal assembly.

 

[Nowickii]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, it's much appreciated. I will likely be checking the shift assy bushings first so I avoid any unnecessary work as I feel the symptoms of this are similar to what I'm experiencing.

Now, I just have to wait for the weather to actually warm up so I can do this. I will keep everyone updated!